I am a noob when it comes to boost. If I have a boost leak, wouldn't it be noticeable all the time? Not just when the car is warm?
Fuel cut? Misfire?
- Thread starter RTtim
- Start date
That is still the problem, my car runs great when with no issues at all for the first 10 minutes or so and then once everything starts to warm up is when the problem starts. I am gonna test the fuel pressure tonight after I get off work to see if there is an issue there.
This weekend I will make a boost leak tester to see if that is the problem also.
This weekend I will make a boost leak tester to see if that is the problem also.
Yes, the temperature dependence is not typical with a boost leak. Also a boost leak sets code 34 which is why I asked about any codes.
An ignition issue is also possible. DO you have access to an ignition scope?
An ignition issue is also possible. DO you have access to an ignition scope?
No I don't have access to a scope. Other than checking ohm across the two pins on a coil is there another way to check to see if they are going bad?
Also, no codes.
Also, no codes.
If I was to take vac/pressure gun and use it to pull vac or apply pressure to the stock fuel pressure regulator should it hold vac or pressure? I'm thinking it should but want an opinion from someone else
Well the fpr holds vac plus I disconnected my mbc and no change. This weekend I am gonna swap out the injectors and see what happens.
Do what, swap injectors? To see if the injectors are the problem. I am gonna test the fuel pressure first tho. Something is causing my car to run way to lean. I have already changed the fuel and there was no change. The whole problem is it feels like fuel cut even at part throttle and little to no boost. Anybody else that has been in my car when it happens all seem to think the same thing just judging by the way it feels. When I watch my AEM wideband the afr will be at approximate 13.5-14.5 until the boost just starts to come in. Then is will drop to about 11 and then instantly spike at 16.5-17. If not the injectors or fpr what else can cause that ??? The other thing as stated before it will only happen after my car has been running for 10 minutes or more.
As was noted earlier, your A/F meter reads oxygen. An ignition misfire will cause it read lean, because the unburned charge contains a bunch of oxygen. To diagnose a lean condition, you need to hook up a 4 gas analyzer to your exhaust, which I doubt you have. Rather than swap parts, get the tools to do a proper analysis. The ignition scope will tell you if your problem is ignition related. A 4 gas analyzer will tell you if you have a mixture problem. Your wideband gauge is really not suitable for this diagnosis as all it can read is oxygen..
Unfortunately I don't have access to either so if you say that's my only choice then I am in a bit of a jam cause I cant afford to drop off my car at some shop and wait for the call that it's fixed.
No engine codes yet? Don't have a shop fix it but get someone to diagnose it for you. There has been 20 years of things done to your car and since you are not familiar with these cars I would take the weekend to get to a shop and just have them figure out the problem for you. Without any of us being with the car all we can do is make suggestions but it defeats the purpose when all of our suggestions combined will cost more than a diag. and may not solve anything. Good luck.
Nope still no codes, and like I said I can't afford shop time even for diag time. I'm not paying 100 dollars an hour when I can tinker for free. I can still drive my car back and forth to work I just can't have any fun with it so I will continue to tinker with it and keep trying suggestions. And thank you.
Just again and I do have a code and it's 34. Possible causes anyone? I remember someone posting 34 could mean possible boost leak. Would that fit the description of my problem?
RTtim;1703730 said:
I was going by the above. If it's still doing that try what I said. Not gonna help your code 34 though. That's likely a boost leak.
honeydew;1710637 said:
To start this engine was swapped from one car to another( long story). As for the problem---- it just happened out of the blue one day and since then changed the fuel pump, spark plugs, wires, and swapped afm, changed all vac lines. I have ohm'd the coils to find that according to the Haynes manual they are all alittle higher then normal even the spare set I have. So if someone could ohm the primaries on their coils and tell me what they get would be great. Other than replacing the coils right now I am at a loss.
I will try the idea of jumping the terminal for the fuel pump and see what happens.
Well I made a boost leak tester and found a couple good leaks. I will put my car back together and take it for a spin and post the results.