First off, I want to thank Joliroger4 for giving me great step by step instructions and answering any and all of my questions. Thanks a lot!
It took me quite some time to finish it up, but it was mostly because of lack of time and because the car is my daily driver. A couple weeks ago I finished college and I was able to have my dad bring me to work and back(I work with him), so I actually took the car down for 2 weeks.
Hardest part about this was definitely the wiring as I'm not very good with electrical stuff and another thing is sourcing all the parts. By the time I was done they already knew me at AAP and Autozone because I was there pretty much everyday, buying connectors, wiring, shrink wrap, etc.. I also had to do a great deal of ordering stuff online, like 6awg butt connectors, circuit breaker, etc..
I ended up using the blue plastic Moroso sealed box, Jeg's battery cable kit, Jeg's 300A Push Pull disconnect switch kit, Jeg's fuel pump relay kit, Xscorpion 100 AMP Circuit Breaker for the alternator, misc wiring, tons of different sized connectors, shrink wrap, etc..
First I found myself a place for the battery box. Then I had to drill two holes on the bottom of the box and drop the fuel tank and drill another 2 holes in the chassis and secure the box to the chassis. Then I routed two 2AWG cables through the little room between the framing and the driver's side rear passenger armrest plastic. Then if you pry up the carpeting you will notice that there is a ducting made for your eletrical wires that run along the edge of the carpeting. Then I drilled 2 holes in the steering column cover and fed the cables through and the cables end up being right under the brake booster. Then I found a place for my disconnect switch and mounted it. Then I drilled holes for the battery cables and vent tubing in the box. After that I started wiring everything up to the disconnect switch and battery. Then I routed the cables in the engine bay to the starter and alternator and I used a 100 AMP Circuit Breaker on the wiring for the alternator. After that I rewired the fuel pump with a relay and ditched the stock relay and resistor. I had to route a 10AWG cable from the engine bay to the battery box in the rear for the fuel pump control wire. Well those are pretty much the main points, although there's more involved. Sometime later on I will cut a hole in my pass side taillight for the disconnect switch bar, which I have a spare taillight for. So all I would have to do is push on the bar and the car will shut off per NHRA rules.
Anyway now on to the pics. All of my fuel pump wiring and relay is inside my battery box, I didn't feel like taking the cover off as it takes some time to do.
Sideways picture of the disconnect switch and some of my fuel pump wiring.
I fed the wiring through here
Then here
This is where the wiring comes out
Connection on the starter
Circuit breaker
No more battery!
Alternator cable going underside of the engine to the alternator
No more battery terminals
Diagram of what I did
It took me quite some time to finish it up, but it was mostly because of lack of time and because the car is my daily driver. A couple weeks ago I finished college and I was able to have my dad bring me to work and back(I work with him), so I actually took the car down for 2 weeks.
Hardest part about this was definitely the wiring as I'm not very good with electrical stuff and another thing is sourcing all the parts. By the time I was done they already knew me at AAP and Autozone because I was there pretty much everyday, buying connectors, wiring, shrink wrap, etc.. I also had to do a great deal of ordering stuff online, like 6awg butt connectors, circuit breaker, etc..
I ended up using the blue plastic Moroso sealed box, Jeg's battery cable kit, Jeg's 300A Push Pull disconnect switch kit, Jeg's fuel pump relay kit, Xscorpion 100 AMP Circuit Breaker for the alternator, misc wiring, tons of different sized connectors, shrink wrap, etc..
First I found myself a place for the battery box. Then I had to drill two holes on the bottom of the box and drop the fuel tank and drill another 2 holes in the chassis and secure the box to the chassis. Then I routed two 2AWG cables through the little room between the framing and the driver's side rear passenger armrest plastic. Then if you pry up the carpeting you will notice that there is a ducting made for your eletrical wires that run along the edge of the carpeting. Then I drilled 2 holes in the steering column cover and fed the cables through and the cables end up being right under the brake booster. Then I found a place for my disconnect switch and mounted it. Then I drilled holes for the battery cables and vent tubing in the box. After that I started wiring everything up to the disconnect switch and battery. Then I routed the cables in the engine bay to the starter and alternator and I used a 100 AMP Circuit Breaker on the wiring for the alternator. After that I rewired the fuel pump with a relay and ditched the stock relay and resistor. I had to route a 10AWG cable from the engine bay to the battery box in the rear for the fuel pump control wire. Well those are pretty much the main points, although there's more involved. Sometime later on I will cut a hole in my pass side taillight for the disconnect switch bar, which I have a spare taillight for. So all I would have to do is push on the bar and the car will shut off per NHRA rules.
Anyway now on to the pics. All of my fuel pump wiring and relay is inside my battery box, I didn't feel like taking the cover off as it takes some time to do.
Sideways picture of the disconnect switch and some of my fuel pump wiring.
I fed the wiring through here
Then here
This is where the wiring comes out
Connection on the starter
Circuit breaker
No more battery!
Alternator cable going underside of the engine to the alternator
No more battery terminals
Diagram of what I did
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