Feels Slower then i think it should be ? Vids inside
- Thread starter Turbo Habanero
- Start date
if it's 10 AFR cruising only outta boost, there is not a need to "TUNE", there is a need to FIX. something is def wrong
Here's the jist on the the afr situation it stays at ten while driving at steady speed leans out when i let off.
But if I give it enough throttle to get the car to start slowly accelerating it will run 15's but as soon as i get bacl to cruising throttle postion it goes rich again
Seems to be worse at operating temps and it does not want to stay off period at idle just wants to shut off.
Also no codes
EDIT: i can watch the Vacuum Gauge go from lets say 10psi of vac to 16vac under light acceleration
But if I give it enough throttle to get the car to start slowly accelerating it will run 15's but as soon as i get bacl to cruising throttle postion it goes rich again
Seems to be worse at operating temps and it does not want to stay off period at idle just wants to shut off.
Also no codes
EDIT: i can watch the Vacuum Gauge go from lets say 10psi of vac to 16vac under light acceleration
Last edited:
te72;1823330 said:Just an fyi, vacuum is measured in in/hg, not psi. We know what you mean, but to be technically correct...
Ah my fault
By the way i put my old BOV back on and it fixed the cars idle/rich condition while normal driving i just have bad compressor surge :/
jetjock;1823329 said:
Actually JJ i saved the links and plan on it on my day off work
But thanks for sharing the links it should come in handy for me.
Much Appreciated
Jordan,
I just did a complete build of my engine and I was experiencing the same issue... car just didn't feel strong like I expected for the mods. I was throwing a code 51 occasionally and someone gave me great advice to get that taken care of before I tried anything else... so I adjusted the TPS back to proper specs, cleared the codes and went for a short drive... felt MUCH better but still not quite where I expected it to be... so I decided to check the timing... I had just checked the timing earlier today and it was at 10.5*... well after adjusting the TPS it was now at 0*. So I retimed it and put it back to 10.5* and obviously the idle smoothed and when I went for another drive it was exactly what I was expecting from the car.
So if you have a bad tps, misadjusted tps and stop screw or anything at all wrong with any of these... I would fix that before you worry about anything else... get the stop screw handled and then adjust your tps to spec using an ohm meter and thickness guage. The tps may not be bad but just not adjusted correctly... I thought the same thing at first.
If the bad tps is causing the car to retard the timing you will experience most of the issues you have been describing.
Good luck!
I just did a complete build of my engine and I was experiencing the same issue... car just didn't feel strong like I expected for the mods. I was throwing a code 51 occasionally and someone gave me great advice to get that taken care of before I tried anything else... so I adjusted the TPS back to proper specs, cleared the codes and went for a short drive... felt MUCH better but still not quite where I expected it to be... so I decided to check the timing... I had just checked the timing earlier today and it was at 10.5*... well after adjusting the TPS it was now at 0*. So I retimed it and put it back to 10.5* and obviously the idle smoothed and when I went for another drive it was exactly what I was expecting from the car.
So if you have a bad tps, misadjusted tps and stop screw or anything at all wrong with any of these... I would fix that before you worry about anything else... get the stop screw handled and then adjust your tps to spec using an ohm meter and thickness guage. The tps may not be bad but just not adjusted correctly... I thought the same thing at first.
If the bad tps is causing the car to retard the timing you will experience most of the issues you have been describing.
Good luck!
Last edited: