Well, fixing the tps and resetting the timing is bound to help.. Leaning it out if you're that rich could probably help with a few horses.
Feels Slower then i think it should be ? Vids inside
- Thread starter Turbo Habanero
- Start date
So yeah just watch lol....
[video=youtube;dmJLq5wydnc]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dmJLq5wydnc[/video]
[video=youtube;dmJLq5wydnc]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dmJLq5wydnc[/video]
1. Check your timing belt to make sure you're still in time and the belt is tight.
2. Check for boost/air leaks from the MAF to the head. Including the brake booster check valve (mine was jammed with rust inside) and other obscure leaks.
3. Check your spark plugs and plug gap.
Boost leaks will cause you to run rich under boost.
If the timing belt is loose or messed up your spark and cam timing will be all over the place.
Rich mixtures are harder to light and will foul plugs, and that leads to misfires under full boost.
When the fuel doesn't fire in the cylinder it fires in the exhaust with a loud pop, like in that last video.
Also... you should be destroying Ecsta AST tires. They are probably the least sticky tire I've ever had the misfortune to buy for any of my cars (and I love Kumho tires, I have Ecsta LE Sport on my supra, and Kumho Ecsta MX on my Mazda's track wheels right now).
2. Check for boost/air leaks from the MAF to the head. Including the brake booster check valve (mine was jammed with rust inside) and other obscure leaks.
3. Check your spark plugs and plug gap.
Boost leaks will cause you to run rich under boost.
If the timing belt is loose or messed up your spark and cam timing will be all over the place.
Rich mixtures are harder to light and will foul plugs, and that leads to misfires under full boost.
When the fuel doesn't fire in the cylinder it fires in the exhaust with a loud pop, like in that last video.
Also... you should be destroying Ecsta AST tires. They are probably the least sticky tire I've ever had the misfortune to buy for any of my cars (and I love Kumho tires, I have Ecsta LE Sport on my supra, and Kumho Ecsta MX on my Mazda's track wheels right now).
I will be buying the AFPR on Thursday.
I will check the EGR not sure how but my trusty TSRM is bound to tell me!
Also gonna pull plugs
As far as boost leaks and vacuum leaks go i will have to build a DIY Boost leak tester
18vac at idle 22-24vac while city driving 25vac on highway
I will check the EGR not sure how but my trusty TSRM is bound to tell me!
Also gonna pull plugs
As far as boost leaks and vacuum leaks go i will have to build a DIY Boost leak tester
18vac at idle 22-24vac while city driving 25vac on highway
So i decided to take to inspect the EGR Modulator and well i'm not sue what it is suppose to look like but the filters are dirty to say the least
So now my car is really bad
the car is doing the had jerk and backfire more often i think its a bad connection to the battery
code 11 is all i get now
the car is doing the had jerk and backfire more often i think its a bad connection to the battery
code 11 is all i get now
Yeah, I was going to say from the video it almost looks like you're losing electrical power to the car when it jerked with how the tach dropped. Do other gauges/lights/etc turn off at all when it happens? Does it happen more when the car is cold in the morning vs. warm in the afternoon or vice versa? IF you are seeing some fluctation in a bunch of electrical systems, maybe go around and check all the grounds, make sure they're clean and secure. If you've got a stereo with extra power lines running to the back make sure you don't have a rogue power wire shorting to the chassis. Also check and make sure you don't have the lines on the alternator and starter shorting out on the housings.
radiod;1821673 said:
checked and cleaned all grounds i do not lose any power to any of the car when it happens.
I also do not have any crazy stereo just a headunit that uses stock wires
A friend at a local shop told me he couldn't pull the codes from the ecu with his diag tool and that he thinks my ecu is bad.
Praying someone can answer this for me
http://www.supramania.com/forums/sh...uestion-Answered-please-Regarding-stock-ECU-s
http://www.supramania.com/forums/sh...uestion-Answered-please-Regarding-stock-ECU-s
Err... what? You realize the "diagnostic" tool for our cars is merely a piece of wire (I keep a piece of speaker wire in my fuse box), even a paperclip will do. If he thinks your ECU is bad because he can't hook up his "diagnostic" tool, I'd be wary of letting him near the car with any tools...Turbo Habanero;1821683 said:
I know how to check codes with a wire also.
I've seen the thing he uses it simply plugs into the top of the diag box and it reads the code that way hee has shown me once before but now all it says is error instead of pull the code
I've seen the thing he uses it simply plugs into the top of the diag box and it reads the code that way hee has shown me once before but now all it says is error instead of pull the code
Correct the ECU is not the Issue.
Although today i pulled the timing and it was at 0 degrees instead of 10.
Keep in mind my harness is in very bad shape! also my CPS is not working it makes it will only hold it's position for a short time and you have to play with it quite abit to get it to hold 10degrees timing.
After resetting the timing and playing with the harness a little bit took the car for a test drive and it felt great no jerking around pulled all the way to redline
Now it didn't burn or roast my tires/clutch but it did feel to have more power and would spin the tires in second for a second or two before grapping traction on 13-15psi
Although today i pulled the timing and it was at 0 degrees instead of 10.
Keep in mind my harness is in very bad shape! also my CPS is not working it makes it will only hold it's position for a short time and you have to play with it quite abit to get it to hold 10degrees timing.
After resetting the timing and playing with the harness a little bit took the car for a test drive and it felt great no jerking around pulled all the way to redline
Now it didn't burn or roast my tires/clutch but it did feel to have more power and would spin the tires in second for a second or two before grapping traction on 13-15psi
Jordan, I thought I'd bring the conversation over to the correct thread.
Does that HKS BOV have any adjustment to it? Is there a screw you can turn and make it stiffer to hold more boost? If so, try that.
I once had the same problem you had. I had a MBC and turned up the boost, but for some reason the car didn't seem any faster. It turned out to be the stock BOV wouldn't hold the boost. It would leak. I did the Bosch BOV mod, it held the boost, car felt faster.
Why don't you hit up another member in your area and borrow their BOV to test if that what it is.
Does that HKS BOV have any adjustment to it? Is there a screw you can turn and make it stiffer to hold more boost? If so, try that.
I once had the same problem you had. I had a MBC and turned up the boost, but for some reason the car didn't seem any faster. It turned out to be the stock BOV wouldn't hold the boost. It would leak. I did the Bosch BOV mod, it held the boost, car felt faster.
Why don't you hit up another member in your area and borrow their BOV to test if that what it is.
I have a knock off HKS same flange just a snap ring hold it on and there's no adjustment screw
well let me explain before my blow off valve HKS ssqv (REAL) would just give a solid burst of air unless letting of at medium VAC then you would hear the Flutter that the intake gives or maybe it was surge I don't know.
But after i fixed the timing on my car it flutters all the time even under 15psi let off's.. the thing is i can still here the intial burst of air followed by a flutter
So then i decided to make sure the valve was opening and it does it opens under very little throttle at IDLE and when i give it a decent rev i get that crazy flutter and it's coming form the valve i can feel the air coming out in burst against my hand instead a solid wooosh like it use too..
Vacuum at idle is 19-20 and 24 while driving Boost is dropping off pretty bad only gets to about 14psi and drops to 10
well let me explain before my blow off valve HKS ssqv (REAL) would just give a solid burst of air unless letting of at medium VAC then you would hear the Flutter that the intake gives or maybe it was surge I don't know.
But after i fixed the timing on my car it flutters all the time even under 15psi let off's.. the thing is i can still here the intial burst of air followed by a flutter
So then i decided to make sure the valve was opening and it does it opens under very little throttle at IDLE and when i give it a decent rev i get that crazy flutter and it's coming form the valve i can feel the air coming out in burst against my hand instead a solid wooosh like it use too..
Vacuum at idle is 19-20 and 24 while driving Boost is dropping off pretty bad only gets to about 14psi and drops to 10
Ok so i put a different HKS bov in (USED) but know i have a so problem's
1. The bov sounds alot more quite then the last
2. my AFR's are at 10.0 under normal driving
3.can't kepp the car at idle for the life of me
Video with new BOV
[video=youtube;LEn3Q2LxdZw]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LEn3Q2LxdZw[/video]
Photo of old BOV
1. The bov sounds alot more quite then the last
2. my AFR's are at 10.0 under normal driving
3.can't kepp the car at idle for the life of me
Video with new BOV
[video=youtube;LEn3Q2LxdZw]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LEn3Q2LxdZw[/video]
Photo of old BOV