Exhaust manifold stud upgrade
- Thread starter bigaaron
- Start date
Mk3runner said:
-------EdIteD several times.
beefy? whats beefy.
i like beef.
AHhh sorry....ok...umm how are you doing the tap, in car or out? i did it in car, and yes i did the ones all the way in the back. it isnt too difficult. i might have time to post help on in-car tapping tomorrow once i hear back to see which you're doing. unless when i review the thread the answer presents itself.
ok...so i'm not sure. i'm tired though.
and just to let you know, it is true that just about every 7m will or has had exaust stud problems. aluminum is a soft metal, and that side of our engines simply runs hot. if you've seen the head off of an engine that gets hot enough to soften the metal, it will show the affected areas even after surfacing. heli-coiling the holes isnt a huge deal, it is annoying...but think of it this way...the studs you helicoil will NEVER strip again. ever. (thats what i've been told...and mine havent stripped that i know of). and from another POV...anybody building a 7m, all out build or a rebuild...will heli-coil their studs. at the very least it offers peace of mind.
if you're the type that goes at it without actually waiting for a good responce, make sure you check the depth of the existing hole and put tape on your bit to make SURE you do not drill deeper than the hole that is already there. if you do, and go too far (which isnt actually that far when you're drilling through aluminum) you will drill into the cooling jacket of your engine, which is not good, to say the least. i think i checked the depth, then looked at the helicoil and drilled just enough for the helicoil to go in, as per the directions i believe. since the stud is no longer threading into the head you dont need to drill much deeper than the helicoil's depth, if at all - i am no longer sure how far the directions say. your kit should tell you, if it doesnt i'll look at my kit.
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well if you had to, like me, you can do it in the car.
its not bad... i was a TOTAL newbie and did an almost perfect job. i used a pnumatic one-way angle drill. awesome tool. one stud was not as perfect as i wanted but everything fit fine and bolted up perfect.
for you, i'm not sure whats best to use for a drill. obviously something you can confidently hold steady and control well. for me i had the car's fender wall to brace my arms and the exaust manifold resting on a couple studs (still installed) to help guide the bit. since you probably have it up on a engine stand, i'm not sure what would be best. head coming off or is the stud thing your only mod before instillation into the car?
read my last post, i edited it like 3 times. lol. i'm tired and rembling. goodnight.
its not bad... i was a TOTAL newbie and did an almost perfect job. i used a pnumatic one-way angle drill. awesome tool. one stud was not as perfect as i wanted but everything fit fine and bolted up perfect.
for you, i'm not sure whats best to use for a drill. obviously something you can confidently hold steady and control well. for me i had the car's fender wall to brace my arms and the exaust manifold resting on a couple studs (still installed) to help guide the bit. since you probably have it up on a engine stand, i'm not sure what would be best. head coming off or is the stud thing your only mod before instillation into the car?
read my last post, i edited it like 3 times. lol. i'm tired and rembling. goodnight.
He covered most of it, but the most important thing is to drill the holes straight, make sure to look from several angles when you drill. If you drill the holes crooked, the studs will be crooked. Next time I install a set I'll make a little video with how to do it.
I have my hands full as it is, and my kit works just fine. If you are talking about the big steel inserts, they require too big of a hole to be drilled, there is not a lot of meat around the studs holes in some places.
well thanks on the advice. I guess find a strong place to hold it and just do it. this is about my only hold up to putting the motor in and finally being able to drive it. damn problem is the drill I have is too small for the bit and I'm flat broke... damn, wheres pay day at.
bigaaron, where can I send money to buy just the studs/lock nuts? And can you get exhaust manifold gaskets? I called toyota and they want a lot for the gasket. thanks
Just saying for any one debating about doing this! If your motor has the original studs in there, you should do this upgrade 100%.. It is WORTH IT! $60 insurance!
I ordered my set, im doing the HG so might as well upgrade the exhaust studs while the head is outa the car. 60$ is a drop in the bucket, i hate dealing with stripped bolts!
Mk3runner said:
yes its nerve racking, especially if you think... "if i push this drill to hard I no longer have a usable engine head.
unless of course you're an insanely good welder, and the fix is possible. i believe it is... but...yeah.
I wouldn't call it insanely good...it's easier than tigging thin stuff. Preheating might be a bear though.
Aaron: Can you still do these with NF on the head side like we talked about before? Can you get 'em in CRES?
Aaron: Can you still do these with NF on the head side like we talked about before? Can you get 'em in CRES?
jetjock said:
oh well i dont know much about welding...i just imagined it would be hard to get in the spot with a welder...
I'm going to order in one of these kits for my exhaust side. Just wondering if these will fit on the intake side as well?