Exhaust manifold stud upgrade

[NashMan]

i never had prob mine are all heil coiled and work great now

but good idea eahter way

ps shoudl tell all the daytona peoeple this have you sean thosu shitty stud's they have in there cars hahahahaha

 

[rakkasan]

Paypal sent! Thanks Aaron.

 

[cnewingham]

another paypal sent.

 

[upgradedsupra]

My head has been helicoiled a long time ago. This head has a problem with stripping so good idea.

Duane

 

[Jaguar_5]

Oooh very cool, will need this for my current build... i'll be ready to order this week, should i just send paypal when i'm ready?

 

[bigaaron]

Oooh very cool, will need this for my current build... i'll be ready to order this week, should i just send paypal when i'm ready?

Yeah, no problem!

Thanks for all the compliments guys!

Also, I got some new 7/16 studs that are 1/4" shorter because the previous ones were longer then really needed

 

[rakkasan]

I recieved my 7/16th kit a few days ago. I love it, thanks Aaron!

 

[IJ.]

What would work REALLY well for this mod is to ditch the Tap and use a Thread Roll as it works by compressing the material as it makes the thread form (think of a forged thread)

A lot of the stud stripping is from the aluminium softening on the exhaust side from heat.

 

[Reign_Maker]

Aaron, are you still doing this?

If so, I'd like the 7/16th studs out of the car kit...

 

[blackout_89t]

I am not trying to bash on your findings, but....

In no way are the OEM m10 (maybe m8? I forget) studs to small of diameter.

Their size is more than sufficient, the only problem is having the two very different metals mating together and then adding lots of heat cycles.

I had all of my exhaust manifold thread holes helicoiled to stock size, and then used SS studs to stock spec. Everything has held up perfect, and no torque issues. Add in the high heat thread locker and you are set for life.

 

[bigaaron]

I am not trying to bash on your findings, but....

In no way are the OEM m10 (maybe m8? I forget) studs to small of diameter.

Their size is more than sufficient, the only problem is having the two very different metals mating together and then adding lots of heat cycles.

I had all of my exhaust manifold thread holes helicoiled to stock size, and then used SS studs to stock spec. Everything has held up perfect, and no torque issues. Add in the high heat thread locker and you are set for life.

That's great it worked on your engine, but from my experience building a bunch of 7m engines and repairing more I would disagree. But that is why I have a stock kit too, so if you feel confident in it then go for it. The larger diameter studs work better in part because you remove a little more aluminum to install the 7/16 helicoil and it seems to anchor into the head better. I have seen 10mm helicoils pull right out of the head before the stock torque spec is reached. That is what prompted the bigger studs in the first place.

 

[bigaaron]

Aaron, are you still doing this?

If so, I'd like the 7/16th studs out of the car kit...

I can put a kit together for ya by Tuesday! LMK, thanks!

 

[Reign_Maker]

I can put a kit together for ya by Tuesday! LMK, thanks!

ok... Im letting you know... PM me when the kit is ready and I'll PP you...

 

[suprageezer]

No matter what the size of the studs you choose use Copper Anti-Seize on them. I use Nickel Anti-Seize on all other nuts and bolts that don’t require Loctite. If you practice this method you will never have problems removing them. You will also be able to more accurately torque nuts and bolts since almost no torque values are for dry thread engagement.
Rick

 

[bigaaron]

ok... Im letting you know... PM me when the kit is ready and I'll PP you...

You got it! I'll let you know now that you let me know and then we all will know, no? Thanks!

 

[bigaaron]

No matter what the size of the studs you choose use Copper Anti-Seize on them. I use Nickel Anti-Seize on all other nuts and bolts that don’t require Loctite. If you practice this method you will never have problems removing them. You will also be able to more accurately torque nuts and bolts since almost no torque values are for dry thread engagement.
Rick

Copper huh? I've been using nickel but I'll look into it if copper is better.
You don't need Loctite on the nuts because they are locknuts and I don't think Loctite is a good idea on a helicoil because it might back out with the stud if you tried to removed the studs later on. Honestly I think the temperature is so high that normal Loctite would bake and become useless.
I don't pretend to be an expert on the subject of Loctite OR antiseize though.

 

[suprageezer]

Aaron your right Loctite wont work on nuts and bolts that see high temps unless you pay the big bucks and buy the aerospace grades made for this purpose. I was trying to say that no nut or bolt should go in dry, as far as exhaust nuts and bolts go the Anti-Seize is the way to go, Loctite for everything else. Copper Anti-Seize is made to handle the higher heat. I have also used with great success Copper Exhaust Gaskets in exhaust systems and never had a leak. If you can't find Copper Anti-Seize, Nickel is way better than nothing.
Rick

 

[suprageezer]

One more point on heli-coils, in the aerospace industry loctiting the heli-coil in is pretty much standard. It makes it far less likely to come out when removing bolts. Use a cotton swab with some acetone to remove the excess loctite in the threads once the loctites has had sufficient time to lock the heli-coil to the part. I don't recommend it for exhaust bolts since the exhaust temps are way to high for standard Loctites. One more important tip, never stick a dry bolt into a heli-coil.
Rick

 

[IJ.]

Great Info!

 

[bigaaron]

ok... Im letting you know... PM me when the kit is ready and I'll PP you...

Ok, we are good to go on three 7/16 helicoil kits. If you would like one send the money over paypal to aaron@driftmotion.com Make sure to include all necessary information please. I can ship it out within a day or two of receiving payment. (pretty busy but I'll get it out asap!)