I made it, my lovely supra is running 
No stock lambda here either, running one of the outputs from my LC-1 to the stock ECU.
No stock lambda here either, running one of the outputs from my LC-1 to the stock ECU.
eraezer - Supra MK3 -89 -Swedish Build
- Thread starter eraezer
- Start date
johnd: no video yet, but so far I can tell you that my friend who drove behind me thinks my supra sounds really mean and awesome when I push it up in the rpm range.
sunnysupra: thanks! but why welcome? Have I forgot to thank you somewhere? :-/
sunnysupra: thanks! but why welcome? Have I forgot to thank you somewhere? :-/
-:|Update - 2011-02-23|:-
It was only a quick trip to the garage today.
But I did manage to remove the broken pressure relief valve, so now I need to buy a new one
I also recieved my capacitors for my HF box.
Pictures:
Whats left of the relief valve
and where it's located
Caps. for my HF box
It was only a quick trip to the garage today.
But I did manage to remove the broken pressure relief valve, so now I need to buy a new one
I also recieved my capacitors for my HF box.
Pictures:
Whats left of the relief valve
and where it's located
Caps. for my HF box
Last edited:
-:|Update - 2011-03-04|:-
Today I removed the remaining front part of the exhaust and with that came the turbo.
It was a bit too white inside the exhaust manifold and the reason is showing in the last picture,
the intake hose is broken where it connects to the turbo, so unmetered air has entered the
engine resulting in lean condition, but no knock.
I took the turbo apart to be able to use the turbine housing while I'm building my new exhaust.
I started the new exhaust with welding a plate to the DP flange which sepperates the regular
exhaust gases from the wastegate gases.
Pictures:
The front part of the exhaust is out
And so is the turbo
And now the turbo is in pieces
Testing the DP flange
Fitting a block-of plate
This explains some things
Today I removed the remaining front part of the exhaust and with that came the turbo.
It was a bit too white inside the exhaust manifold and the reason is showing in the last picture,
the intake hose is broken where it connects to the turbo, so unmetered air has entered the
engine resulting in lean condition, but no knock.
I took the turbo apart to be able to use the turbine housing while I'm building my new exhaust.
I started the new exhaust with welding a plate to the DP flange which sepperates the regular
exhaust gases from the wastegate gases.
Pictures:
The front part of the exhaust is out
And so is the turbo
And now the turbo is in pieces
Testing the DP flange
Fitting a block-of plate
This explains some things
I see you're still using a milling machine as a beaver-tooth metal hatchet. Ask somebody locally to show you how to properly use a mill....it will make your work much more professional looking and won't wreck your endmills. Otherwise, looks like you're making good progress.
SGinNE
SGinNE
That flange is the same one that I showed last summer.
When I did it I didnt have time to use the propper milling tools to complete it. I had to do it this way or wait the whole summer due to renovations.
I thought that I would have time to fix the exhaust during the summer...but as you have seen, I didnt.
And besides, there is no need to have a perfect round hole there since porting work will be done later in the process.
An extra note: I have about 50 updates that are on their way. Due to supramania putting posts together if a timelimit isnt exeeded I won't be able to post about 2 or 3 per day.
When I did it I didnt have time to use the propper milling tools to complete it. I had to do it this way or wait the whole summer due to renovations.
I thought that I would have time to fix the exhaust during the summer...but as you have seen, I didnt.
And besides, there is no need to have a perfect round hole there since porting work will be done later in the process.
An extra note: I have about 50 updates that are on their way. Due to supramania putting posts together if a timelimit isnt exeeded I won't be able to post about 2 or 3 per day.
-:|Update - 2011-03-13|:-
Today I continued with my new DDP. It might be a bit to low, but adjustments will be made
when the whole exhaust system is spot welded.
Pictures:
Here you see my downpipe
Might be a bit to low
Today I continued with my new DDP. It might be a bit to low, but adjustments will be made
when the whole exhaust system is spot welded.
Pictures:
Here you see my downpipe
Might be a bit to low
-:|Update - 2011-03-17|:-
Today I bought an extra gauge cluster which I will install new gauges in.
I will keep my stock cluster for back-up reasons.
The other day I bought some more parts for my HF box and picked up some neon trafos from work.
Pictures:
My new gauge cluster
A bonus pic of my girlfriends familys cat
The parts for the HF box
Today I bought an extra gauge cluster which I will install new gauges in.
I will keep my stock cluster for back-up reasons.
The other day I bought some more parts for my HF box and picked up some neon trafos from work.
Pictures:
My new gauge cluster
A bonus pic of my girlfriends familys cat
The parts for the HF box
-:|Update - 2011-03-21|:-
Today I started on my new oil cooling system.
I have figured out placement of the oil cooler, filter mount and the thermostat.
Now I only need to route the oil lines.
I have also worked some more on my HF box during the past days.
It's soon ready for testing.
Pictures:
Engine oil cooler placement
Placement of filter mount and thermostat
More parts for the HF box
Started putting together the HF box
Today I started on my new oil cooling system.
I have figured out placement of the oil cooler, filter mount and the thermostat.
Now I only need to route the oil lines.
I have also worked some more on my HF box during the past days.
It's soon ready for testing.
Pictures:
Engine oil cooler placement
Placement of filter mount and thermostat
More parts for the HF box
Started putting together the HF box
-:|Update - 2011-03-22|:-
I continued with the oil system today.
I started making the oil lines. I'm using Earl's swivel seals and Russel stainless steel braided
lines.
Pictures:
Where I make my oil lines
My first
Cooler with lines
Thermostat with lines
I continued with the oil system today.
I started making the oil lines. I'm using Earl's swivel seals and Russel stainless steel braided
lines.
Pictures:
Where I make my oil lines
My first
Cooler with lines
Thermostat with lines
-:|Update - 2011-03-30|:-
I continued with the oil system today.
I started making the oil lines. I'm using Earl's swivel seals and Russel stainless steel braided
lines.
Pictures:
Filter adapter and lines installed
lines continues under the headlight...
to the filter holder...
and thermostat...
and finally to the cooler
I continued with the oil system today.
I started making the oil lines. I'm using Earl's swivel seals and Russel stainless steel braided
lines.
Pictures:
Filter adapter and lines installed
lines continues under the headlight...
to the filter holder...
and thermostat...
and finally to the cooler
-:|Update - 2011-04-01|:-
I mostly worked with my HF box today and I managed to do some tests with it.
My first cap. broke but I managed to get the high frequency needed to weld
aluminum.
I also added an extra ground to the multiplex box since I read somewhere
that it's needed
Pictures:
Added an extra ground to the multiplex ign. box
and installed it
worked a little on the side piece for the wing
Tried alu tig with my new HF box
Broke my first cap.
I mostly worked with my HF box today and I managed to do some tests with it.
My first cap. broke but I managed to get the high frequency needed to weld
aluminum.
I also added an extra ground to the multiplex box since I read somewhere
that it's needed
Pictures:
Added an extra ground to the multiplex ign. box
and installed it
worked a little on the side piece for the wing
Tried alu tig with my new HF box
Broke my first cap.
-:|Update - 2011-04-03|:-
I started with the diff today.
To get rid of the rust on the axle stubs I used electrolyte and on the housing I had to
go the hard way and use wire brush drill bits.
When the parts were clean enough I painted them with epoxi primer.
Pictures:
Time to do something about the rusty diff
Removed the output shafts
Preparing for electrolyte
A rust free diff.
Electrolyte in the works
The result
Then it was time for epoxi 2-comp. primer
I started with the diff today.
To get rid of the rust on the axle stubs I used electrolyte and on the housing I had to
go the hard way and use wire brush drill bits.
When the parts were clean enough I painted them with epoxi primer.
Pictures:
Time to do something about the rusty diff
Removed the output shafts
Preparing for electrolyte
A rust free diff.
Electrolyte in the works
The result
Then it was time for epoxi 2-comp. primer
-:|Update - 2011-04-06|:-
I continued with the diff parts today.
The second outputshaft got an electrolyte treatment and then I painted some more.
Pictures:
Output shaft #2 is taking a bath
A second coat of primer
I continued with the diff parts today.
The second outputshaft got an electrolyte treatment and then I painted some more.
Pictures:
Output shaft #2 is taking a bath
A second coat of primer
-:|Update - 2011-04-07|:-
Today I painted the diff housing and axle stubs with red top coat.
Pictures:
Red top coat is on
Today I painted the diff housing and axle stubs with red top coat.
Pictures:
Red top coat is on
-:|Update - 2011-04-10|:-
One of the things I have to take care of to get through inspection is the bad steering
tie rods which was actually just loose nuts.
But the steering rack is down now so I'll do the best of it.
Some grinding and paint made the rack look a lot better.
Pictures:
My rusty and dirty steering rack
Much better with some paint on
One of the things I have to take care of to get through inspection is the bad steering
tie rods which was actually just loose nuts.
But the steering rack is down now so I'll do the best of it.
Some grinding and paint made the rack look a lot better.
Pictures:
My rusty and dirty steering rack
Much better with some paint on