eraezer - Supra MK3 -89 -Swedish Build

[eraezer]

-:|Update - 2010-08-28|:-

Today I turned my focus back to my rear sub frame.
I had some welding ahead of me before I could paint it.
First up was the reinforcement.
I started with paper templates and then copied those over to 2 mm metal, then cut and weld.
I painted the backside of my reinforcement plates with weld through primer.

It took a lot longer than I thought, but that seems to be the way of all car related stuff


Pictures:

Paper templates

Spot welded

99,8% done with the welding

 

[sous]

you have do an awsome job on the rear wheel house mine was rusty like that at the same place

 

[eraezer]

-:|Update - 2010-08-30|:-

Today I continued with the rear sub frame.
I finished the reinforcement. Some welds look like shit, but blame that on rust damage.
I then re-welded some stock welds which looked like they had taken some damage from rust.

After that I cleaned it, built a paint booth and painted it...while the rain was pausing.
I had some help when placing the sub frame outside, but I had to do it alone when it
was time to take the sub frame inside.
When the sub frame was 99% into it's place out of the way so that the paint can dry, the weight
shifted and the sticks holding the sub frame broke but not completely.
There were just some minor paint that got removed. No problem but still unlucky.


Pictures:

Sub frame ready in paint both

Primered

and brought inside

 

[eraezer]

you have do an awsome job on the rear wheel house mine was rusty like that at the same place

Thank you very much
We'll see what it looks like out in better light. There's a risk that I will redo the rear arches with replacement arches for a celica.
But then again, after all this work I might just go with what I have

 

[eraezer]

-:|Update - 2010-09-01|:-

Today I brought a friend with me and he helped me carry the sub frame so that I could
paint the top coat on it.
We built a better paint booth this time.


Pictures:

A better paint both

Painted and inside

 

[eraezer]

-:|Update - 2010-09-03|:-

Another thing I needed to finish was the fuel tank which I had started on before.
But then it was just for checking the condition, and yes I'm talking about my
second fuel tank.

The paint on the tank was hard and a little damaged from fuel so I found it to be
easier to remove the paint with a heat gun and a knife and then some final cleaning
with a wire wheel.

When it was clean I painted it with epoxi primer and I used a brush.
I started with the bottom and then put it on wooden stands to get the top side.
I will fix the area where the stands touch the tank later.


Pictures:

Rust free, paint free and... well everything free

Primer painted with a brush

 

[eraezer]

-:|Update - 2010-09-04|:-

Cleaned of the dashboard, brackets for it and ventilation pipes.
Then I mounted the parts and the interior now looks a bit like it
should when it's a car
I installed the ign. lock temporarily to test the lights and controls
in the dash and the work
But I did not have the ecu connected.


Pictures:

It's coming together

Dashboard in place...

...and a better pic showing that the electrics work

 

[Enraged]

wow, this build continues to amaze me

 

[eraezer]

wow, this build continues to amaze me

Thank you, thats nice to hear

 

[eraezer]

-:|Update - 2010-09-08|:-

School day today, but first I needed to pick up some stuff for my fuel setup.
I got new pipe couplers for the stainless steel fuel lines and the guy pressed on
a new banjo body on a hose that I will use between the fuel tank and filter.

When I got to school I had to show my friend my new stuff and my "broken" caliper
bracket just happened to lay beside the new stuff.
So we had a look at that.
10 min later we were in the school shop and by lunch my caliper bracket was repaired


Pictures:

Pipe couplers

New hose to go between tank and filter

Milling out a "new" hole

The "new" hole with a helicoil

Ready for cleaning and paint

 

[eraezer]

-:|Update - 2010-09-11|:-

With new pipe couplers I could install the fuel feed line and filter.
Since the line is stainless steel it takes some time to get it in place.
I also started to remove the parts that I will reuse from the old fuel tank and I was
amazed about how easy the screws let go


Pictures:

Working with the hard lines under the car

Fuel filter and feed line in place

Started unbolting the pump and other parts that I will reuse from the old tank

 

[eraezer]

-:|Update - 2010-09-12|:-

Today I continued with the hard lines under the car.
The idea was to wait with the return pipe since that don't really need to be in stainless
steel, but I had managed to put a kink in it so I had to replace it.
The return pipe turned out to be better than the feed.
The brake line was the easy one, I could shape it under the car while putting it up in the
hanger with the other pipes.
When the pipes were done in the rear (still have to connect them in the engine bay) it
was pretty late, but my buddy who has the car next to me said "GO!", so I did what needed
to be done and then we installed the rear sub frame.
The rear sub frame was a lot easier to install than the front sub frame since everything is
pretty balanced if the diff is used as a lift point.
The only problem was the front inner lower alu. bushings half's which were to big.
I will take those half's with me to school and adjust them in the lathe.

In the last pic you can see that the sub frame hits the plate I welded before.
It's where the front of the upper arm connects to the sub frame, so I need to do a little
trimming there.


Pictures:

Shaping the fuel return pipe

The rear sub frame is installed

...and here you also see my new brake line

...and in the right rear wheel house I've mad an error, but nog biggie

 

[eraezer]

-:|Update - 2010-09-13|:-

I managed to get some time with the lathe in my school today so that I could adjust
the two bushing halfs which were to big.


Pictures:

Adjusted bushing halfs

 

[eraezer]

-:|Update - 2010-09-18|:-

Today I installed the last bushings halfs, the handbrake lever and the driveshaft.
I still need to tighten the driveshaft screws, maybe with loctite?

Pictures:

Handbrake lever is installed

Installed the driveshaft

Last bushing halfs installed

 

[eraezer]

-:|Update - 2010-09-22|:-

I had an opening in my school schedule so I worked during the day and ...worked on
my supra in the evening.

The goal for the day in the garage was to clean the sway bars and primer those plus
finish the primer stage on the fuel tank.

When the swaybars were clean it was pretty late so those had to wait til next time.

I wanted to paint the final spots on the fuel tank since the cure time is so long.
Unfortunately I didnt have any brushes, but I found some plastic tea spoons
and paper coffee cups which worked fine


Pictures:

I'm on the roof of a 7 stories building, Norrtull Stockholm in the background

Removing paint and rust

Waiting for paint

Primer stage completed on the fuel tank

 

[eraezer]

-:|Update - 2010-09-26|:-

Today I wasn't in my garage to work on my supra.
I have lost my spot in the garage due to the person on the contract is about
to start a business and needs the whole garage for himself.

The idea was to place the Porsche on the supras spot when I could drive the supra.
Instead I need to find a garage for both cars and so far I have found one and thats
where the porsche is going today. Still need to find one for my supra

While my friend was loading porsche parts in his car I painted the top coat
on the fuel tank.


Pictures:

The other project car: Porsche 924 -78

Underside of fuel tank painted with top coat (with a brush)

 

[sous]

how did you remove the sound deadening its so hard stick and what size and thickness of sheet metal did you use for reabuilt the rear

 

[eraezer]

how did you remove the sound deadening its so hard stick and what size and thickness of sheet metal did you use for reabuilt the rear

Hello sous,
I used a thin chisel type of tool with an wide edge and a hammer.
I used 2 mm thick sheet metal to reinforce the rear subframe. But before you do, open her up and weld the nuts holding the diff in place. So cut her open, install your diff and weld the nuts.

 

[sous]

and for the rear wheel well what size of metal you use
your built is an inspiration to me to do mine

 

[eraezer]

and for the rear wheel well what size of metal you use
your built is an inspiration to me to do mine

For all the body work I used 1 mm sheet metal.
Thank you very much