Electric Fans 1 or 2

tlo86

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Jul 24, 2005
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i wonder if anyone has actually heard how loud a good electric fan is :biglaugh:

flex a lites are not considered good fans... i can imagine two on a civic otherwise they are not good enough for a supra.

starscream5000;981953 said:

i will defend his reasoning by if you buy a good electric fan (that are about 300$ each or so) two could flow better than a clutch fan. as for what jetjock said i cant argue that ;) they still might be insufficient for the proper cooling

but i would rather people hear my engine not my fans :biglaugh:

as for robbing power... *sigh* the honda mentality IMHO...

i think i would sooner cut into my radiator support to fit a larger radiator than electric fans though...
 

figgie

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Mar 30, 2005
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tlo86;982008 said:
i wonder if anyone has actually heard how loud a good electric fan is :biglaugh:

flex a lites are not considered good fans... i can imagine two on a civic otherwise they are not good enough for a supra.



i will defend his reasoning by if you buy a good electric fan (that are about 300$ each or so) two could flow better than a clutch fan. as for what jetjock said i cant argue that ;) they still might be insufficient for the proper cooling

but i would rather people hear my engine not my fans :biglaugh:

as for robbing power... *sigh* the honda mentality IMHO...

i think i would sooner cut into my radiator support to fit a larger radiator than electric fans though...

no need for that.

The bigger FAL 285 should fit between the frame rails. Pulls up to 5500 cfm which is double what the 220 pull. The amp draw is a heck of a lot more but nothing is for free!
 

Orion ZyGarian

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Apr 2, 2005
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I dont want to get too far into a shitfit being that its 2:30AM and I'm tired as fuck, but I will say that I personally think e-fans are vastly superior, if nothing else than for saving room and teaching/practicing how to wire shit.

I've had my fans wired directly to the battery and lost power with them always running full speed. Probably similar to the stock fan, though I've never had it.

Switching to e-fans is an excellent idea if your stock shit breaks, instead of fixing it back to stock. This is my opinion.

As I've said before, I have dual Aisin fans...I have no idea where they came from but they are in fact stock Toyota fans and fit the radiator perfectly. Instead of a thermo-switch, I use a switch under the dash, and like every smart MkIII owner, I watch all of my gauges religiously, especially oil pressure and water temp. As such, I know when the cooling is necessary and flip the switch under my dash. This way I dont have to worry about drained power when I dont need them. I'd often forget to turn them on when driving on the highway as at that speed, you dont need them; only in stop and go traffic, in which case I leave them on and let the thermostat do its job.

I'm not saying theres anything wrong with a stock fan, other than the noise it makes and the space it takes up. I have no doubt that they can pull as much/more or whatever amount of air they want, but my experience of a few years at BMW has me preferring the e-fans regardless.

As a side note, my DD is a Miata, which came stock with e-fans. One day, I hadnt noticed, but the nut holding one of the fans on to the motor backed off and I lost it, so the fan was sitting inside the shroud doing nothing. I've taken it out since and driven over a thousand miles and many months, using A/C very often, without need for more than half of the radiator to have fan support.
 

JesseH

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ok, this seems like a good thread to ask this question... Since Ive got a FFIM with the alternator relocated i dont need any of the AC componets on there so i pulled out everything and realized I have a decent open space now infront of the radiator....I got a pretty decent dual electric fan setup from a dodge stratus that would not be too hard for me to fab up a bracket for. I dont want to get rid of my mechanical fan because I dont trust the electric ones too much ( previous trouble with them) now, if if wired those up as a secondary with a thermostat to kick on would that be worth it or am I just wasting my time?
 
Oct 11, 2005
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Conservation of energy still applies with electric fans.

A standard automotive alternator is about 55% efficient. That means for every hp of energy consumed by your electric fan, almost 2 hp of alternator drag is placed on the engine.

Its interesting that Toyota selected the hydrofan, rather than use an electric for the MK4.
 

Orion ZyGarian

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3p141592654;982538 said:
Conservation of energy still applies with electric fans.

A standard automotive alternator is about 55% efficient. That means for every hp of energy consumed by your electric fan, almost 2 hp of alternator drag is placed on the engine.

Its interesting that Toyota selected the hydrofan, rather than use an electric for the MK4.
Check out the percentage of new cars that are using e-fans. BMW I know for sure is phasing engine driven out entirely.

Anyways, like I said, in my situation, I have a switch to personally control when they are or arent on. They quite possibly could take more power from the engine, however only when they are on. When they are off, there is no power loss. An engine driven fan always has a big bulky fan on front, and with most of the older cars I've noticed, always has it on.

I also think that the best fans to get will always be used OEM, if not new. They have been tested by the manufacturer to work for a long time as well as supply necessary cooling. After hearing all of the troubles people have had with aftermarket, I'm glad I have OEM ones. I just have no idea which Toyota they are off of :eek:
 

figgie

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Orion

and there we can agree.

For instance the 3000 GT VR-4 uses electric fans. Well it has to as there is no other way (perhaps hyro-powered) to run a mechanical fan in that car. And they are lugging a much heavier po-dunk-a-dunk than our cars!
 
Oct 11, 2005
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Have you asked yourself why and how BMW are doing that?

1) They can now spec a 70% efficient alternator not available 10 years ago
2) They can use a low-drop-out hi-output power conditioner also not available 10 years ago
3) They can spec the rest of the cooling system to harmonize with the fan performance
 

figgie

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in the end they could have a 100% efficent alt and power conditoner.

Those DC motor will always be the weak link. Unless they move to a alt that has a dedicated AC output and run AC motors through that
........
 

IJ.

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Mar 30, 2005
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An engine producing xxrwhp produces xx btu's of energy this needs to be disipated by the cooling system there are no if's but's or maybe's about this.

While an e-fan may work on low power cars it's always going to be margainial on a high hp car.

Even an engine fan alone is often on the limits if the cooling system isn't 100% perfect (no 20 years of crap blocking the fins or bent fins)

A correctly set up good quality e-fan with an increased capacity cooling system (larger rad) has a chance but not many Mk3 people will drop the $$$ needed to do the job right.

As for the "My e-fan saves me power" argument BULLSHIT the power to turn the fans comes from somewhere...... :nono:

E-fans are NOT perpetual motion machines giving "free power".
 

OneJoeZee

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Mar 30, 2005
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I don't understand the significance of the "freeing up hp" thing. If the small amount is really going to make a difference worth talking about, then your car is slow anyway. :dunno:
 

QWIKSTRIKE

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Orion ZyGarian;982277 said:
I dont want to get too far into a shitfit being that its 2:30AM and I'm tired as fuck, but I will say that I personally think e-fans are vastly superior, if nothing else than for saving room and teaching/practicing how to wire shit.

I've had my fans wired directly to the battery and lost power with them always running full speed. Probably similar to the stock fan, though I've never had it.

Switching to e-fans is an excellent idea if your stock shit breaks, instead of fixing it back to stock. This is my opinion.

As I've said before, I have dual Aisin fans...I have no idea where they came from but they are in fact stock Toyota fans and fit the radiator perfectly. Instead of a thermo-switch, I use a switch under the dash, and like every smart MkIII owner, I watch all of my gauges religiously, especially oil pressure and water temp. As such, I know when the cooling is necessary and flip the switch under my dash. This way I dont have to worry about drained power when I dont need them. I'd often forget to turn them on when driving on the highway as at that speed, you dont need them; only in stop and go traffic, in which case I leave them on and let the thermostat do its job.

I'm not saying theres anything wrong with a stock fan, other than the noise it makes and the space it takes up. I have no doubt that they can pull as much/more or whatever amount of air they want, but my experience of a few years at BMW has me preferring the e-fans regardless.

As a side note, my DD is a Miata, which came stock with e-fans. One day, I hadnt noticed, but the nut holding one of the fans on to the motor backed off and I lost it, so the fan was sitting inside the shroud doing nothing. I've taken it out since and driven over a thousand miles and many months, using A/C very often, without need for more than half of the radiator to have fan support.


Agreed....I had to ditch my stock setup because I went FFI and my 3" intake is directly in front of my CSF radiator. I also didn't have a fan shroud so it was no big deal for me to consider electric fans. Sure I have heard about some fans taking a dump, and I certainly know a new stock fan clutch is unparalleled in longevity service, and over all out put.

However when I wired my contour fans in, and ran both of them at the same time at idle they cooled more than the stock fan at idle. How do I know this....the temp gauge is the key. I also liked and wanted the cleaner engine bay look, and the ease of changing belts without taking off a shroud.

Performance wise here in New York where traffic is bumper to bumper, and street temps with exhaust heat can cause weak systems to fail my fans kept my car cool while set up on a temperature switch. Don't DARE run your E fans without a way to make them come on if the switch fails or a fuse blows. If you wire them for fail safe running with a direct switch hook up you won't be disappointed. It looks well, and cleans up the engine bay appearance, and works well if you choose the right fan.

So far I can vouch for a late model chevy lumina dual fan, ford contour or mercury mistique dual fan which are my ultimate favorites, and now my single ford taurus single I believe 5000 cfm single set up which allows me to run my FFI pipes infront of my radiator. I have no cooling issues what so ever. My IC pipes are in front of the engne and I cruise with 6-9 degree centigrade air temps in the winter and so far no higher than 30 degrees centigrade during the summer IC air temps registered by my wolf. When drivng in the winter members here have verified a 6 degree centigrade IC air temp registered on my wolf v500 display.

The most reliable setup is stock period, but a well manufactured high flow efan will work fine. I have a 12x24x4 inch IC and my ac condenser, and radiator between my electric fan and when it comes on it can keep a leaf stuck to the front of the IC until the fan turns off. You can literally feel the air coming ou from behind the car at idle. It's only ultimately up to the user which route to go.

I think the point some are trying to make is that the efans aren't getting a fair shake in the capeability arena, and if set up properly will do just fine against a stock fan setup. However the reliability falls heavily on the stock set up for sure. I spent more than an hour and a half on the dyno doing WOT pulls making 479rwhp and 449 ft lbs of torque with electric fans that came on only by sensor, when I tried to find a fault in my tps system. I have also survived many hot summers with ford contour dual fans. I hope my new Taurus fan serves just as well. I am not debating which is better, but I am giving everyone a chance to see what the alternatve can be if done properly.

All this to say the e fans are a viable alternative to stock fans for those that want a clean look, and want to run an FFI like I did, or just don't have a shroud, or want the ease of use of changing alternators, water pumps or belts. However you will lose the reliabilty of the stock setup. I also can say my efans barely come on in the winter even when I am driving, and I know this by watching my water temp gauges, and they only come on when sitting still in traffic, or really hard drivng during the summer.:naughty::biglaugh:

Fixed Ian;) lol v v v v
 
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Orion ZyGarian

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OneJoeZee;982839 said:
I don't understand the significance of the "freeing up hp" thing. If the small amount is really going to make a difference worth talking about, then your car is slow anyway. :dunno:

Over the years, I've seen you say many small stupid things; but this one is by far the worst.:nono:

You forget that people will run into barriers and run into other situations where they'd like more power, but, for instance, are limited by perhaps intercooler size etc.

That comment is as retarded as "just turn up the boost to compensate." WTF do you do when you are at the most boost you can run safely? You FIND OTHER PLACES TO MAKE POWER.

Conversely, I truly like your car and what you've done with it, though I wasnt around when you sold the car that stayed in your family for so long, I couldnt imagine why you would.

IJ: Assuming your cooling system IS running at 100% and you have a sufficiently sized radiator, I doubt you'd need the fans on during you making that power. Also, with a thermostatically controlled setup, the fan(s) will turn on regardless of throttle position (i.e. if you're trying to make the most power that you can) whereas with a manual setup, you can leave them off and then turn them on right away when you need the cooling.
 

IJ.

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Mar 30, 2005
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Orion: We live in the real world where there is only xx room available for the cooling system in the front of the Mk3 so you're limited to being able to disipate xx btu's.

As I said maybe a good set of e-fans will cut it (cost is a non issue for me) but I haven't seen a set I'd run over the Mech Fan and an e-booster and a booster electric waterpump controlled by the MoTeC.

I can drive my car hard in summer with the AC on in stop start traffic where you never get a chance for decent airflow with 0 issues.