IJ. said:
There aren't that many factorys making Filters these days so most are just rebranded/painted for each "supplier".
Even a cheap filter can be fine if it's replaced frequently (2 filters per Oil change, say one at 1000 miles the 2nd at 2000 then a full change at 3000)
Filters are cheap compared to a rebuild to repair Rod Knock.
Gonna had to disagree on this one mate
I don't even run a full flow oil filter. Haven't in years. And rarely do I change oil. Going on 140K miles and runs like a watch. It's what cracks me up when I see all the hype about what filter to use.
That said, there are distinct differences between filters even when made by the same firm. Nitrile verus silicone ADBV, bypass in threaded end versus domed end, pleat count, media type and Beta ratings, on and on. Take the Walmart SuperTech series for example. Made by Champion Labs but much different than say, a Mobil 1, also made by Champion.
Not that it matters, at less than 25 microns or so the stuff that causes wear zips right through a full flow anyway. It just keeps circulating in the engine doing it's dirty work since automotive oils are designed to keep crap in suspension. All full flows do is catch the big stuff that doesn't exist in a healthy engine and pass everything esle. They're good for one thing: catching metal should the engine fail. Most wear isn't even caused by the dirty oil anyway. You need to use a preoiler or accumulator to solve those problems.
As I said, if you want analytically clean oil use a submicronic depth filter, especially if you're running very low efficiency (read piss poor) induction filtration like a K&N. It also removes moisture from the oil, something a cellulose full flow can't.
No moisture means no acid. No acid means no corrosion of either engne parts or a lowering of the oil's TBN. The oil will last a long time and always be clean, as will the engine. In fact, analysis will often show the oil to be cleaner than when it came out of the bottle. The add pack is replenished by make up oil during the depth filter change or a good add pack enhancer can be used. The point is full flow filters are pretty much useless anyway and if the oil is being cleaned to the submicron level even more so.
Even with only a full flow, anyone who changes oil every 3K miles is just throwing away time, good oil, and filters. Anyone who does it with synthetics is nuts, especally when using a Group IV or V. Generally speaking, even the cheapest and smallest filter on the market today is good for a minimum of 10K miles in a healthy engine and oil nearly that long, much longer when using depth filtration and PAO or Ester based synthetics.
In fact a filter's efficiency increases with age but people still doggedly change them long before they should. If they'd study widely available research, cut their used filters open, and do oil analysis (as every other sector from industrial to aviation does) they'd know better. But since old habits die hard the 3000 mile oil change lingers like the outdated information it is. Makes people feel good though
I won't even get into the right oils to use. I've seen so much misconception. myth, and mistake about oils (and coolant) on most forums I'm not even going to try and change it.
