Crank bolt/pulley came loose..need some help
- Thread starter suprafanatic
- Start date
They said they torqued it to 195ft. lbs. Im not sure exactly how the keyways work or where their located at, on the recipt it said under parts ordered pulley, keyway,bolt. The price for the keyway was like $9. somthing
You probably mean the key. The "keyway" is the slot cut into the actual crank, its nt replaceable, its part of the crankshaft. As everyone is saying, its hard to believe that the parts you mentioned got damaged but the crankshaft itself didn't, it just doesn't make sense.
ok thanks for clearing taht up... they said there was no damage at all done to the crank. remember as soon as i heard the noise i pulled over and shut the car off and had it towed. I didn't drive it any further.
Wow! So you basically paid a grand for a stock pulley? I hate to put it that way, BUT./
At least it is a new one, and hopefully your troubles have been completely fixed.
At least it is a new one, and hopefully your troubles have been completely fixed.
ForcedTorque;1248383 said:
If it were me I would try to torque the bolt with the car over a pit. Put the car in gear (1st/R with a manual) or park with the auto and have the ebrake on and torque the bolt. Should have little issue with that.
I haven't done it before but if I had to that is what I would probably do. Im not sure how easy it is to find axis to a pit, but i know most semi shops have them.
I will probably check the torque on mine for piece of mind.
-Dave
supradjza80;1250697 said:
Thanks for the info Dave. I am currently in the middle of a clutch job, so the tranny is out right now (motor still in car). I attempted to torque it last night, and got 170 on it while holding a flywheel bolt. My ARP flywheel bolts are in with loctite of some sort on them. I broke the crank bolt loose trying to get the FW bolts off. I have since changed that idea, and am holding the FW with a piece of flat bar. I have 4 more bolts to get off before going back in with the tranny. I'll get the torque wrench back once it is in, and get that other 25 pounds on it as you posted.
Any good ideas how to get those FW bolts off. I need to hold the motor still with something. My flat bar likes to turn up on it;s side, and bend once I get some real pressure on the wrench.
supradjza80;1250697 said:
um.......i don't think that would be a good idea. the best gear to put it in is 4th. in any other gear you will be loading all the bearings, the hub and sleeve, plus the gear on the op shaft and couter shaft that your in (hint: rev. has small straight cut gears which wouldn't like that). but in 4th your practically bypassing the tranny as all it does is lock the input shaft to the output shaft. so the only thing getting loaded is the sleeve and hub. just wanted to point that out so nobody hurts their tranny.
Ya the pulley itsself was just over $600, so they marked that up quite a bit. Anyways, at this point its done, its fixed, i can live with it. I'v never encountered this issue before so i had no idea what to do, so i did what i did. Thanks for all the help and advice guys, much appreciated!
black89t;1250754 said:
You realize your motor out puts much more torque then 195 lb-ft...You will not harm the transmission doing this. The tranny is way more then capable of doing this. The best gears are 1st/R as they make it the hardest for the wheels to turn.
supradjza80;1250894 said:
If that's true then go and start off in 5th gear and see how that works out for you.....lmao think man!
IJ.;1250916 said:Dave: Bzzzz think it over a bit
ooops i lose, yeah go with 4th or 5th gear. I was thinking the gear reductions through backwards. Thats what i get for quick posting while in class...
The tranny will be fine regardless of gear though, the motor can output much higher torque values on it then 195 lb-ft
supradjza80;1251000 said:
It's not about stress on the trans...you don't want to put it in first gear cause when you start putting pressure on the crank bearings and may put a indent in them...in 4th gear the trans will stop the crank from rotateing which will assist in not putting too much pressure on the internal bearings.
gaboonviper85;1251156 said:
I mispoke originally and wrote 1st/rev since if you are applying a torque to the wheels of the vehicle (such as parking it on a slant) it holds the vehicle with the most force.
The guy who said 4th gear is the gear you should use was worried about breaking the tranny...I said from the beginning you dont have to worry about stress on the bearings bc the transmission can handle a lot more than 195 lb-ft of torque.
Really it doesn't matter what gear you put it in as long as the car doesn't move (even if it would move a small amount nothing is going to happen to the internal bearings). I haven't done it yet so I don't know what gear will need to be used, but I am pretty confident that in 3-5th the car will not move any appreciable amount. Especially if your E brake works.
I know exactly how the torque gets multiplied through the gears and the reason for putting the vehicle in gear to begine with(hence my original post), but I did post the incorrect (least ideal gears) gears because I was in a hurry and didn't think it through.
ForcedTorque;1250740 said:
Hey Scott, take a spark plug out and turn crank till the piston is down and feed a piece of rope in the cylinder till its full. ( use a new cloths line) It will hold.
supradjza80;1251000 said:
LOL Dave I knew YOU knew better
(I often mix up compounds when doing it in my head)