Cooling Problem? or bad HG?

[Burntz]

What is in this "kit"?

No clue atm, probably pistons, rings, bearings, etc.

I dont see how these engines would make 412 hp unless it was pushing 12:1 with a fully balanced engine and tuned perfectly. Doesnt seem very possible lol.

Besides, I'd rather just turbo it. It wouldnt be that hard would it? Turbo and turbo manifold, IC and piping, tap a hole for oil line and return, j-pipe and exhaust, 550 injectors + 255 pump, and a good rebuild with good pistons and rings? lol

 

[Burntz]

A Turbo

I would definately like that kit better. I can get a ebay t4 turbo and manifold for 450, but id thinkin itd prolly b easier to just get a ct

 

[IJ.]

Can't see a 3.0L NA 7M making 400+ no matter what's done to it sorry.

 

[Burntz]

Can't see a 3.0L NA 7M making 400+ no matter what's done to it sorry.

I definately agree. Is it really THAT big of a PITA to turbo a n/a 7m? I was thinking about just doing a rebuild, but with a kit for the 7mgte, so i have the right pistons etc, then getting the stock turbo + manifold, tapping the lines, and all the obvious stuff. Is it that easy?

 

[cuel]

Here ya go, this will make a 400+ hp n/a 7m:
http://store.summitracing.com/partd...&N=700+4294907680+4294870482+115&autoview=sku

 

[Burntz]

Here ya go, this will make a 400+ hp n/a 7m:
http://store.summitracing.com/partd...&N=700+4294907680+4294870482+115&autoview=sku

Haha, he was talking about ALL motor

 

[cuel]

lol. Honestly, I don't think you could get the head built right for a high hp n/a application for under $700 ($1200 maybe), not to mention the bottom end...

Would like more info on the kit he's talking about though, just outta curiosity.

 

[Burntz]

lol. Honestly, I don't think you could get the head built right for a high hp n/a application for under $700 ($1200 maybe), not to mention the bottom end...

Would like more info on the kit he's talking about though, just outta curiosity.

Yea no problem, I'm gonna have him tell me everything in it, because If the company that makes the kit will give me a guarentee of the 412 hp or my money back, then i guess i'm doing it :naughty:

Im pretty set on a turbo kit rebuild and going turbo, but hey, if 412hp n/a is possible (doubtful) then id do it.

Will keep you posted

 

[Burntz]

I have another question, how is it that I ran out of antifreeze within 2 days, yet I see no leaks at all? Also, my coolant overflow was empty, so i filled it up, and the birdcage light is still on? wtf?

 

[Figit090]

well....you might be burning coolant, and replacing that with exhaust from combustion, or more coolant, devouring your overflow bottle when the cylinder(s) suck in coolant, and eventually air if your overflow gets emptied.

another way this could happen is air bubbles left in the system when you refilled it. obviously you cannot completely fill the system because some points (heater core, and some hoses) are higher than the radiator cap, and therefore will not fill with water. i think one problem in the cooling system is when you have a large enough air mass in the system, it cannot flow, and when you are at idle the pump isnt moving coolant fast enough to pass the bubble, and flow stops or is severely hindered. if you hear a "waterfall" sound behind the dash at higher RPM's you know there is air in there.

try burping the system. its totally possible you just have a huge air bubble....replacing a hose and loosing coolant will require a lot to fill it back up and there will be air in there...so after burping it, and watching the coolant levels, you'll know if its a blown headgasket. if it stops consuming coolant after a few days you're probably in the clear. my car ate coolant for a few days after refilling. i was lucky and it burped itself, but some say to do it manually by the 'burping' process (search)

but please watch your oil...look with a flashlight into the oil filler cap onto the cams, check the oil cap, the dipstick, and drain your oil and replace it as soon as you see ANY milkshake, along with a new filter if you MUST drive it. otherwise park the car and check your sparkplugs/or use a block test kit and make a decision based on what you find. with murky oil its pretty much given that you have a BHG, and a steam-cleaned sparkplug will give you more evidence. my BHG gave me a shiny-carbon-free sparkplug in one cylinder...

i might have missed if you checked your fluids but try your darndest NOT to drive it with milky oil...if you do, it can/will RUIN your bearings and then you'll end up with bottom end work to do.

good luck!

 

[Burntz]

well....you might be burning coolant, and replacing that with exhaust from combustion, or more coolant, devouring your overflow bottle when the cylinder(s) suck in coolant, and eventually air if your overflow gets emptied.

another way this could happen is air bubbles left in the system when you refilled it. obviously you cannot completely fill the system because some points (heater core, and some hoses) are higher than the radiator cap, and therefore will not fill with water. i think one problem in the cooling system is when you have a large enough air mass in the system, it cannot flow, and when you are at idle the pump isnt moving coolant fast enough to pass the bubble, and flow stops or is severely hindered. if you hear a "waterfall" sound behind the dash at higher RPM's you know there is air in there.

try burping the system. its totally possible you just have a huge air bubble....replacing a hose and loosing coolant will require a lot to fill it back up and there will be air in there...so after burping it, and watching the coolant levels, you'll know if its a blown headgasket. if it stops consuming coolant after a few days you're probably in the clear. my car ate coolant for a few days after refilling. i was lucky and it burped itself, but some say to do it manually by the 'burping' process (search)

but please watch your oil...look with a flashlight into the oil filler cap onto the cams, check the oil cap, the dipstick, and drain your oil and replace it as soon as you see ANY milkshake, along with a new filter if you MUST drive it. otherwise park the car and check your sparkplugs/or use a block test kit and make a decision based on what you find. with murky oil its pretty much given that you have a BHG, and a steam-cleaned sparkplug will give you more evidence. my BHG gave me a shiny-carbon-free sparkplug in one cylinder...

i might have missed if you checked your fluids but try your darndest NOT to drive it with milky oil...if you do, it can/will RUIN your bearings and then you'll end up with bottom end work to do.

good luck!

I do believe that you've just helped me out the wazoo. I have reason to believe that my car was completely empty of antifreeze after that hose. The car started to overheat right as I got to a friends, yet the radiator was stone cold. I added a tiny bit of 50/50 and steam shot out the cap, and broken hose, which is how I found it lol.

Hopefully its this stupid bubble. Also, I filled my overflow, yet the birdcage light is still on, wtf?

And my dipstick looks good, and underneath my cap was just a bit of milk residue. I plan on changing the oil soon, just need the time, and as poor as it sounds, the money. I'm going to go check the camshafts under, but what would I notice on it?

Edit: And i used to hear the "waterfall" sound all the time, but it was probably because the hose was broke and I didnt know. Now I dont really hear it?

 

[johnathan1]

If there is residue from oil and coolant mixing, then you shouldn't drive the car anymore...

If you continue to drive it, then you won't just need to replace the head gasket, you will need to fully rebuild the engine.

 

[Burntz]

If there is residue from oil and coolant mixing, then you shouldn't drive the car anymore...

If you continue to drive it, then you won't just need to replace the head gasket, you will need to fully rebuild the engine.

I do realize that, and if I wasn't going to fully rebuild it, Id have it torn apart in my friends garage right now :biglaugh:

I plan on rebuilding it with a stock turbo rebuild kit, and converting it.

And the only spot I noticed that was on the underside of the oil cap. The dipstick oil looked perfect. I didnt worry about the cap so much, because moisture can get in thier and mix with the oil on the cap. It was that way on my moms Civic and that thing was an 01 with 50k miles

 

[Figit090]

I do believe that you've just helped me out the wazoo. I have reason to believe that my car was completely empty of antifreeze after that hose. The car started to overheat right as I got to a friends, yet the radiator was stone cold. I added a tiny bit of 50/50 and steam shot out the cap, and broken hose, which is how I found it lol.

Hopefully its this stupid bubble. Also, I filled my overflow, yet the birdcage light is still on, wtf?

And my dipstick looks good, and underneath my cap was just a bit of milk residue. I plan on changing the oil soon, just need the time, and as poor as it sounds, the money. I'm going to go check the camshafts under, but what would I notice on it?

Edit: And i used to hear the "waterfall" sound all the time, but it was probably because the hose was broke and I didnt know. Now I dont really hear it?

well i'm not sure when you read it, but first things first, i changed a bit in my post and you might re-read it quickly to see if you got the edited one. it made a bit more sence

first issue, birdcage- if your overflow bottle is at the "max" line or a bit above, chances are somethings wrong with the sensor, look inside and see if the floaty is level with the water, if its not, its stuck and thats your problem, if it is, somethings wrong with the sensor and i cant help you there. someone can, just not me.

as for the cap, any milky residue is a bad sign, and it sounds like a BHG, so change the oil and filter as soon as possible for you, and even avoid driving the car altogether if you can...
but i'm not sure what you want to do in terms of precautionary measures. if you cant or dont want to stop driving it, fix the coolant level first. fill it up to the filler with coolant, and squeese the top radiator hose lightly so you can get some of the air in that to bubble out. if you have a funnel that fits perfectly in the radiator cap you can fill up to the cap and leave the funnel while you squeese so the pressure and bubbles dont splash coolant everywhere. then you can add more until that method no longer expels air. once thats done, cap it, fill the overflow and proceed to burp the system. with new oil if you can spare the money. (i know how tight money can make this difficult) do a search on system burping. i dont want to explain it all or say something wrong.

as for the camshafts, you can kinda see one lobe if you look carefully, and once i saw sludge sitting on that. but you can see some oil too sitting in the valve valley. it doesn't mean all your oil looks like that, but its something to look at.

hope that helps.

 

[Burntz]

well i'm not sure when you read it, but first things first, i changed a bit in my post and you might re-read it quickly to see if you got the edited one. it made a bit more sence

first issue, birdcage- if your overflow bottle is at the "max" line or a bit above, chances are somethings wrong with the sensor, look inside and see if the floaty is level with the water, if its not, its stuck and thats your problem, if it is, somethings wrong with the sensor and i cant help you there. someone can, just not me.

as for the cap, any milky residue is a bad sign, and it sounds like a BHG, so change the oil and filter as soon as possible for you, and even avoid driving the car altogether if you can...
but i'm not sure what you want to do in terms of precautionary measures. if you cant or dont want to stop driving it, fix the coolant level first. fill it up to the filler with coolant, and squeese the top radiator hose lightly so you can get some of the air in that to bubble out. if you have a funnel that fits perfectly in the radiator cap you can fill up to the cap and leave the funnel while you squeese so the pressure and bubbles dont splash coolant everywhere. then you can add more until that method no longer expels air. once thats done, cap it, fill the overflow and proceed to burp the system. with new oil if you can spare the money. (i know how tight money can make this difficult) do a search on system burping. i dont want to explain it all or say something wrong.

as for the camshafts, you can kinda see one lobe if you look carefully, and once i saw sludge sitting on that. but you can see some oil too sitting in the valve valley. it doesn't mean all your oil looks like that, but its something to look at.

hope that helps.

I didnt realize thier was a float in the overflow? maybe it is stuck, it did look kind of dirty in their :-\

And I can drive my bronco, my whole deal is me trying to sell it to rebuild my supra, but thats hard to do when ur not sure if your Supra is DDable ya know?

I'm gonna go check that float right now, and pop the cap off and squeeze the hoses.

Also, I may replace the thermostat just because. It was warm earlier, and the top hose and radiator was hot, but the bottom hose felt .. lukewarm? could I just have a stuck or weird thermostat?

Edit: So i didnt even see a float in the overflow? I felt around in thier, nothing. And I checked my oil cap again, and it looked black, not milky, which is weird. Oil is a bit low so I'm going to go get a quart, then i'll check the dipstick again

 

[Figit090]

I didnt realize thier was a float in the overflow? maybe it is stuck, it did look kind of dirty in their :-\

And I can drive my bronco, my whole deal is me trying to sell it to rebuild my supra, but thats hard to do when ur not sure if your Supra is DDable ya know?

I'm gonna go check that float right now, and pop the cap off and squeeze the hoses.

Also, I may replace the thermostat just because. It was warm earlier, and the top hose and radiator was hot, but the bottom hose felt .. lukewarm? could I just have a stuck or weird thermostat?

Edit: So i didnt even see a float in the overflow? I felt around in thier, nothing. And I checked my oil cap again, and it looked black, not milky, which is weird. Oil is a bit low so I'm going to go get a quart, then i'll check the dipstick again

there is a little post with a donut/washer shaped float. if you can get your hand in there to feel around something's broken or your hand is indredibly and impossibly small. lol. did you use a stick? use a small flashlight against the plastic or threw the hole to see it. its near the bottom... if the birdcage light wasnt on before, something just happened.

and as for your radiator, i dont know what to tell you because i dont know how long the car was running and how hard you pushed it. a new themostat is about 8 bux... its definitely something you should get if you are worried at all about your current one being bad. it can cause overheating.

last thing unless i forgot something; do NOT drive your supra. you have another car and therefore financially are much better off driving the truck.

 

[Burntz]

there is a little post with a donut/washer shaped float. if you can get your hand in there to feel around something's broken or your hand is indredibly and impossibly small. lol. did you use a stick? use a small flashlight against the plastic or threw the hole to see it. its near the bottom... if the birdcage light wasnt on before, something just happened.

and as for your radiator, i dont know what to tell you because i dont know how long the car was running and how hard you pushed it. a new themostat is about 8 bux... its definitely something you should get if you are worried at all about your current one being bad. it can cause overheating.

last thing unless i forgot something; do NOT drive your supra. you have another car and therefore financially are much better off driving the truck.

I just tried to stick my finger in their to feel, dont have a flashlight that I can find so I cant see in thier lol. My bronco is nice, just a gas hog :-/ . Im trying to sell it, but i have a possible sponsor, so maybe i'll drive it till that comes through. The whole point is me selling the bronco to finance the supra rebuild. then i could probably borrow a car from someone. damn cars! lol

 

[Figit090]

lol... yeah get a flashlight. your finger wont even get close. it doesnt reach higher than the "max" line and thats really low compared to where u felt.

just use your eyes, if theres fluid in there, you're good. keep an eye on it though and check it before and after you drive.

but thats if you drive, and you aren't.

i dont know what the best course of action for you would be since you have another car.. i'd wait for some more responces...

 

[johnathan1]

The overflow bottle is easy to take out...just pull up on it, and it will pop out.

Then you can pour the coolant out, and get a better look.

 

[Burntz]

The overflow bottle is easy to take out...just pull up on it, and it will pop out.

Then you can pour the coolant out, and get a better look.

ahh, good idea, will do tomorrow