Chunks' Build

[TurboStreetCar]

Yea i was figuring some type of valve on a hose. I gotta decide if im leaving it in its current position then i can drill a hole in the proper spot and weld on a nipple at the proper angle.

I really need to drill out my valve covers for 1/2NPT ports. Under extended heavy boosting im spitting small quantities of oil out of my dipstick.

 

[TurboStreetCar]

Well i wanted to drill out the valve cover PCV holes to run bigger lines and got tired of looking at one polished valve cover so i popped them off and did both.

While i was working on the car i installed the Aeromotive AFPR ive had sitting in my room for a while.

Im aware my engine bay is a disaster with lines running all over. Im going to clean it up one day.

I got my new wheels for the drag radials. They came late in the day and i didnt want to wait so i mounted them by hand and got them ballanced the next day.

I took a few pictures of the car now that i got the new wheels and tires installed.

And i got my new signature picture

 

[whitemike]

Looks good!

Is it safe to just move the pcv lines like that? I want to do the same exact thing but I always say "It's there for a reason" and without doing my research I don't like to mess with things. Any info would be great, thanks.

 

[TurboStreetCar]

Thanks!

Well there are baffles in the valve covers so that oil cannot splash up and get pushed/pulled out of the motor.

The baffles go from the back of the cover to about where the lower section is for the intake tube. These valve covers are from a non turbo so the PCV tubes are in a different location then a turbo. The passenger side vent falls right under the throttle linkage so that one had to be relocated. I cut the tube off and filled the hole with silicone then re-drilled another hole at the back where there is no obstruction.

As long as you put the hole where the baffle is i cant see there bieng any problems. I think they put them where the put them because thats where they fit on that particular engine setup.

 

[Nick M]

Do you still think of a change to a 700R4/4L60? How is the SupraStick? What turbo are you running? That looks like a T04Z in your avatar, not a Masterpower T70.

 

[TurboStreetCar]

The turbo is a Master Power T-70, The avatar picture is just a cool picture i found on the Internet.

The Supra Stick is nice i have only really had one issue with it and one suggestion. The only problem i have found is that the converter control is a little basic. I am using an output channel on the 8860 to control a relay based upon TPS position to unlock the converter when i want it to. Otherwise i found that the converter would stay locked in overdrive unless the transmission down shifted. When you have a 3000rpm stall converter, unlocking and dropping a gear to pass a car or go up a hill is WAY too much. When the converter locks the RPM drops about 600-1000rpm depending on load.

I have the relay control to unlock at about 30% throttle and re-lock as about 15% and it works very nicely and makes the transition smooth..

The suggestion i have is that it should have a lead that is energized on every upshift so that the ability to run a shift cut is possible to help save the trans on upshifts when making good power. The only problem i see with this is there is a slight delay from when the SSv4 commands the next gear to shift time. I cant really say how long as it changes with load and throttle input, but that could be an issue with having the cut at the right time, and may be why its not available.

Other then that its been working nicely and when driving the car it behaves as almost stock, with some more lag ofcourse.

As far as transmission selection, if i were to swap it would most likely be to an AODE(4R70W). Theres places here that can build that trans to handle 900-1200 horsepower and there able to implement a transbrake and if i wanted (though i most likely wouldn't) a manual valve body.

It also has a .70:1 (or .67:1) overdrive compared to the A340 .75:1 so i could run a 3:9 or 4:1 rear gear, be able to cruise and hopefully go threw the traps in third with a 28 inch tire.

If i were really looking to swap i would have to weigh the difference in cost of the AODE + converter VS a TH-350 + converter + with Gear Vendors overdrive unit. I think the AODE would be cheaper as the Gear Vendors unit is about two grand alone.

 

[empera]

looks sick brotha!

 

[Nick M]

You do know that AODE also is 2.4 in first, as opposed the 4RW70 which is the same as our 2.8. Now I am going to have to look up stock converter function.

 

[TurboStreetCar]

Thanks Empera!

Nick: They also have the optional gearset of the 2.8 for the AODE.

Heres the place im talking about. http://www.fbperformance.com/default.asp

I would go to them and see if they could build me a custom trans to my specs. I dont want most of the "race" mods. I just want the stronger parts and transbrake. I have herd the valve body modifications can kill then trans when driven normal on the street.

I would really only be interested in swapping if the built A340E i have doesnt last. The transbrake would be nice, but i already have this transmission in the car and built. That said, i wouldn't build it again if it broke or couldn't handle the power.

 

[Nick M]

What kind of 60 can you cut on the MT's?

 

[TurboStreetCar]

Havnt been to the track yet with this setup. Best last 60' with stock converter/turbo/trans and BFG 255's on sawblades was a 2.0 traction limited. I just ran my car on pocket dyno (Iphone app similar to a G-Tech) and it went 12.16@116mph with a 2.0 60' on the street.

Since it went 2.0 on the street im guessing i could maybe squeak a 1.8-1.9 at a prepped track. Problem now is the converter is the SLIGHTEST bit too tight and i have to ride the converter at the line so hard that if i dont hold the brakes as hard as i can it will push the car or do a burnout.

If my parking brake shoes had any material left on them (it fell off during the last brake job) I would try launching with the parking brake fully pulled to help keep the rear tires from turning.

I was contemplating putting a 20 shot on it that would turn off at like 12psi of boost just to help the car leave. I dont want to refill a bottle so i decided a slightly looser converter would be the best option. Funds are limiting me on that though. Since the car is a street car im not entirely worried about it. If i 1.8 60' at the track ill be happy. The 2.0 felt crazy on the street.

 

[Hachigo87]

Props to you for mounting those tires by hand, it can be pain enough actually using a real tire machine haha.

Any plans on taking it to the track soon? I was looking into that pocket dyno app and I was wondering how accurate it really is..

 

[Supra_Villan]

make some passes!!

 

[NTRA08]

what do you gain from the 3kgt igniter? And is there any other wiring needed to do besides what you explained?

 

[TurboStreetCar]

Hach: Thanks haha, Yea it was a fun experience. They are 28 inch tall and there a soft compound so it wasn't that bad. Hoping to go to the track on Saturday July 10th unless the supra meet gets rained out again. Ill find out then how well it estimates performance.

Villan: I want to, hopefully on the 10th!

NTR: The stock ignitor Utilizes multiplexed inputs. It uses a combination of inputs to trigger different channels. The stock ignitor has three inputs A,B and C. To fire channel one it receives signal on channel A. To fire channel two it receives signal on A and B. To fire channel three is receives signal on B and C.

Because of this it does not interface well with most standalone management systems, The EMS 8860 included. There are Diode circuits that arrange the inputs electronically correct but in the real world (In my experience) doesn't work.

The problem this causes is a miss fire in the RPM range of 2500-3000. It will idle fine and rev fine. When put under load it will miss fire but then clear up above that particular range. Im not really sure what causes this symptom but i do know that the multiplex setup is the culprit. This symptom was found when using the diode circuit and fixed when the ignitor was changed.

The 3000GT ignitor is a direct 3 channel ignitor that needs one signal per channel fire. It is also inexpensive at around one hundred dollars at AutoZone. IIRC You could use a MK4 N/A Supra/IS300 ignitor to do the same thing but there more costly.

The swap just required removal of the pins from the stock connector and putting the correct female pin from the harness on the correct male pin on the ignitor.

This swap can only be done with a standalone engine management system or other system that has one signal per ignitor channel fire output.

 

[NTRA08]

Okay then well said. I'm getting one. thank you

 

[TurboStreetCar]

Your welcome, glad to help.

 

[TurboStreetCar]

Got a new camera and experimented with HDR programs.

Ofcourse the Supra day at the track (Saturday 7/10/10) got rained out for the second time. Still no numbers.

 

[crisp]

Got a new camera and experimented with HDR programs.

Beautiful shot, chunks! Love the sky and lighting!

Just read your entire thread today... so props to you and look forward to the updates!


-crisp

 

[TurboStreetCar]

Thanks Crisp!

Cars down for the moment. I believe the transmission front pump to converter snout seal took a dump. Either that, the big o-ring type seal around the pump, or i cracked the pump housing.

I just installed a nice set of parking brake shoes (Thanks to Zumtizzle) and i was playing with the new found boost at launch two days ago. Yesterday i went to take a buddy for a ride when i noticed a little smoke. Looked under the hood to see a pool of transmission fluid forming under the car. Jacked the car up today and looked closer to see it running out of the bellhousing.

Completely not looking forward to dropping the transmission, especially for possibly an $10 part.