Changing my head gasket, me asking for your help while doing this
- Thread starter Doat
- Start date
To bypass the factory alarm you ground out the hood pin switch. This tells the factory alarm that your hood is constantly open, and so it never arms. It's often used when the door key cylinder switches stop working, but they're not too hard to fix.
Any locksmith can take care of locks. Actually from a legal standpoint they are less likely to have liability issues due to the nature of the business. Personally, I'd trust the locksmith more than the dealer in this case.
Any locksmith can take care of locks. Actually from a legal standpoint they are less likely to have liability issues due to the nature of the business. Personally, I'd trust the locksmith more than the dealer in this case.
What they dont tell you is that many dealers (smaller ones especially) actually use a local trusted 'locksmithery' and dont necessarily have anything 'in house' they can use. I'd say either would work fine though
I was at walmart today and I saw they have Rotella T5 synthetic blend 10w-30 for $13, should I make the switch to synthetic blend?
If you ever want or need to know more about oil, I recommend checking the oil/lubrication forum or even better, the BITOG forums. Tons of people there agree that Rotella T5 is a terrific choice
Well I took out two studs on the exhaust manifold that I suspected were causing the problem and when I took them out I noticed the threads that go into the head were filled in with metal sort of like a coil and the second bolt looked the same so I figured that is how it is. I put them back in by hand as much as I could then put the nut on and when it got a little tight it started to get tighter but not 29 ft lbs tight then it got loose and I just kept turning it with some or little resistance. I am guessing my threads are screwed up?
Is the stud supposed to look like this when you pull it out
or are the threads in the short end supposed to be filled with some coil?
Is the stud supposed to look like this when you pull it out
or are the threads in the short end supposed to be filled with some coil?
heh the "coil" you refer to in the threads of the short end of the stud is actually aluminum from your head. those were the threads in the head that held the stud in place. because they are old and soft, when you tried to torque the nut, you spun the stud and ripped the threads right off. now you have a nice smoothish hole in your head that you can't properly thread a stud into. you will need to drill out the holes in the head and then helicoil them.
pretty sure this has already come up in this thread, but ill mention it again: driftmotion has an excellent kit for this project. you get the drill bit, the tap, the studs, the nuts, and the heli coil inserts all for $70 bucks. and it comes with a tap handle, cutting oil, and i think it also comes with the insert tool for the heli coils. as someone who used it, i fully endorse the product.
pretty sure this has already come up in this thread, but ill mention it again: driftmotion has an excellent kit for this project. you get the drill bit, the tap, the studs, the nuts, and the heli coil inserts all for $70 bucks. and it comes with a tap handle, cutting oil, and i think it also comes with the insert tool for the heli coils. as someone who used it, i fully endorse the product.
i did mine with the head still on. you just need a reduced shank drill bit and a right angle drill.
remove turbo and manifold.
remove studs
drill out the holes in the head
clean out the holes
tap the holes in the head
clean out the holes
thread in heli coil inserts. use red locktite. let them dry overnight.
thread in new oversize coarse-thread studs (the ones that came with the kit). use anti-seize or nothing. just dont use red locktite.
install manifold. put anti-seize on the studs before you thread and torque the nuts.
install turbo and everything else.
go for a drive.
remove studs
drill out the holes in the head
clean out the holes
tap the holes in the head
clean out the holes
thread in heli coil inserts. use red locktite. let them dry overnight.
thread in new oversize coarse-thread studs (the ones that came with the kit). use anti-seize or nothing. just dont use red locktite.
install manifold. put anti-seize on the studs before you thread and torque the nuts.
install turbo and everything else.
go for a drive.
that doesn't sound too bad actually problem is I need to get the right angle drill, drill bit, helicoil kit, and the locktite.
Alright great news it turns out my friend might have everything I need, one friend has a right angle drill and another friend has a helicoil kit. I just need to know the size of the drill bit and tap I need, do you guys know what the sizes are?
I just found the helicoil kit on driftmotion, I'd need a 7/16 drill bit and tap then get coarse threaded studs since apparently that holds better, correct?
I just found the helicoil kit on driftmotion, I'd need a 7/16 drill bit and tap then get coarse threaded studs since apparently that holds better, correct?
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Alright my friends have the tools I need just to be absolutely clear on the sizes, I need a 7/16 drill bit and a 7/16 coarse tap and get some new studs with a coarse thread on the head end and fine on the exhaust end and new lock nuts right?
try googling "recoil 37100". This kit has metric thread inserts that will allow you to use the factory studs and nuts. Size is M10-1.25 and it states you can drill with 10.25mm or 13/32. This is the kit is used and it worked fine.
I want to use the studs with coarse threads in the head and fine threads on the nut side I figured that would be better in the long run and overall right? Also can't hurt to replace 20 year old rusted studs and nut and speaking of which do you guys know if ACE hardware will have the studs and nuts I need or do you have to get them special order?
To each his own. In my opinion once the inserts are installed and locked in place properly, there should never be an issue with them stripping again, so fine or coarse threads should not matter.
I highly doubt ACE will have the studs you need. If you do not intend on using oem, why not just get the driftmotion set as others have advised?
I highly doubt ACE will have the studs you need. If you do not intend on using oem, why not just get the driftmotion set as others have advised?