Changing my head gasket, me asking for your help while doing this
- Thread starter Doat
- Start date
It's marked on the outer ring so if it slips in relation to the hub that's keyed to the crank then yes.
(quite common and if you time it to the incorrect mark ALL of your timing is wrong Cams and IGN)
(quite common and if you time it to the incorrect mark ALL of your timing is wrong Cams and IGN)
So using the #1 cylinder piston will tell you true TDC then I put the cam gears at TDC then timing belt on and I should be good? Also the CPS of course. Now when I jump E1 and TE1 in the diagnostics connector, which ones are they exactly and do I put a wire or paper clip in them then start up the car and do what after that?
Puts it into diagnostic mode so you can adjust the base IGN timing without the ECU fighting you for control.
Ahhh I see, good to know. Quick run down, turn the crank to find TDC with piston 1, set the cam gears at TDC with the notches on the timing cover, put the belt on, jump E1 and T1 or TE1 it seems for later models I think mine is TE1? then start the car and if I get a flashing code adjust the CPS until that is gone then turn the car off or leave it on when I remove the jumper and tighten the CPS down?
I apologize if it seems like I am asking the same thing over and over but I want to be absolutely sure of the process. I am trying to find a picture or something online and in the TSRM of the diagnostics to see where the E1 and TE1 connections are.
is this how it looks?
I apologize if it seems like I am asking the same thing over and over but I want to be absolutely sure of the process. I am trying to find a picture or something online and in the TSRM of the diagnostics to see where the E1 and TE1 connections are.
is this how it looks?
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do the stuff with the belt first (get crank to TDC on #1, align cam gears with timing marks on #2 timing cover, run your belt counter clockwise starting at the crank pulley, get your belt tension right and your tensioner torqued down to the correct value).
then put your jumper in between E1 and TE1 and start the car. run it til it reaches normal operating temperatures.
then use your timing light and, with the car still running, rotate the CPS until the TDC mark on your damper lines up with the 10 degree line on the block.
then tighten down your CPS and check the timing again to be sure you havent wiggled it while tightening the stay bolt.
then you are done! go do some burnouts.
then put your jumper in between E1 and TE1 and start the car. run it til it reaches normal operating temperatures.
then use your timing light and, with the car still running, rotate the CPS until the TDC mark on your damper lines up with the 10 degree line on the block.
then tighten down your CPS and check the timing again to be sure you havent wiggled it while tightening the stay bolt.
then you are done! go do some burnouts.
ahahahah thanks, now I need a timing light. I looked under the diagnostic cover and it shows the connections, derp.
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I rotated it once and it wasn't lined up, I will try rotating it twice stopping at TDC on the second rev and see if it lines up.AJ'S 88NA;1862894 said:
Doat;1862898 said:
that is the correct way to do it, anyway. you are supposed to turn it 2 full revolutions and then check to see if the marks are still aligned. this is because if you only do 1 stroke, you will be at TDC on the exhaust stroke which will have different cam gear positioning than TDC on the compression stroke.
I will be checking that in a little bit and I hope it will be a matter of chalking it up to my stupidity and all goes well.
Well chalk this up to my stupidity I rotated it twice and the crank and cams lined up correctly at TDC, crank at 0 and cams lined up with the notches and I put a chopstick in cylinder 1 and it stops moving up right at 0. So all is well now time to put the alternator on, timing cover, radiator, and harness.
here is where I left off tonight, tomorrow I will have to loosen the turbo enough to slip the second half of the exhaust manifold heat shield then finish up on that side with connections and then the radiator and wait for spark plugs, wires, etc. then finish the intake and start her up.
I got the 90 degree coolant hose I need, dealership wanted $28 I saw it at Champions Toyota for $16 on SF, so I went to advanced auto parts and they had it for $8 it is just a tiny bit shorter but it will work.
I got copper spark plugs and a stant thermostat, it says 195F I thought it was 180F but I looked at the box when I got home and realized. Should I take it back and get 180 or will this be fine? I am stock and don't plan on doing anything with the car mods wise anytime soon.
Sweet, I have people coming over tonight so I doubt I will get any work done but if I get oil tomorrow I don't care if godzilla is attacking Houston I am going to put everything together and fire her up.