No problem at all bro. Glad you found it out! You are so close!
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Sent from my G2x using Tapatalk 2
Changing my head gasket, me asking for your help while doing this
- Thread starter Doat
- Start date
I am just worried about the cam gears not lining up with the notches on the timing cover they are slightly off to the left after I rotated the motor and I can't fix it because the tensioner bolt started stripping for some reason.
If the Tensioner bolt is so tight it's stripping the Block is fucked...
Even at the correct 36 ft/lbs torque it pulls #1 Cylinder half a thou.
Even at the correct 36 ft/lbs torque it pulls #1 Cylinder half a thou.
At this point I do not want to hear that lol, I will figure out a way to sharpen the edges of the bolt tomorrow and loosen it carefully then torque it lower.
If the bolt is stripping, replace the bolt. Maybe chase a tap in the block to refresh the threads there. Having that tensioner let go is NOT something that you want to happen while you're out for a drive, unless you like towing bills. (At least it probably won't cost you valves with the 7M.)
Sometimes you'll get a small amount of deflection on the cam position after having the head and block decked, because the distance from the cams to the crank has changed a little, but you'll be okay so long as it's less than 1/2 a tooth.
Sometimes you'll get a small amount of deflection on the cam position after having the head and block decked, because the distance from the cams to the crank has changed a little, but you'll be okay so long as it's less than 1/2 a tooth.
Are you using good quality tools? Make sure your socket is not wearing out and use a 6 point if you have one.
it was the same socket that I was using I think I made it too tight. Tonight I will try to sharpen the edges of the bolt, relieve some pressure from it, and loosen it. Then get a new bolt from the dealer.
Dan_Gyoba;1862282 said:
The 2 offset holes in the Can Pulley are to correct for this.
The Tensioner bolt is either M12 or M14 x 1.25 pitch and being so massive and bolting into #1 Cylinder's wall is what pulls the bore, in the pic I posted above you can see where the rings had never touched that bore...
I tried using different sockets and my deep well impact socket got the bolt loose I rarely used those sockets so they are still sharp, I guess it was a poor quality socket after all, I took the belt off and set the cams to TDC then put it back on then rotated the crank until the cams were back at TDC and somehow the crank pulley doesn't line back up with 0 it stops about half an inch past 0. Why or how does it do that?
#1 Have you checked to make sure the TDC mark on the damper is correct?
(chopstick in the plug hole wind the crank till it stops rising and check mark)
7M dampers do slip, it's very common.
#2 Did you set the cam timing with the belt tight on the drive side?
(TRSM has some detailed instructions on this)
(chopstick in the plug hole wind the crank till it stops rising and check mark)
7M dampers do slip, it's very common.
#2 Did you set the cam timing with the belt tight on the drive side?
(TRSM has some detailed instructions on this)
I looked at the timing belt section in the TSRM and I do not see anything about a damper unless I missed it but what exactly are you talking about? I just realized I did not rotate it from TDC to TDC twice I only did it once, maybe that is why?
Yea I put the timing belt on at the crank first then when I got to putting the cams and cam gears on that is when I lined them up with the notches and the crank at 0 then slipped the belt on the cam gears. A friend of mine suggested that I remove the belt from the cams then turn them a couple of notches in the direction where the crank is then rotate it and they should line up at TDC.
Yea I put the timing belt on at the crank first then when I got to putting the cams and cam gears on that is when I lined them up with the notches and the crank at 0 then slipped the belt on the cam gears. A friend of mine suggested that I remove the belt from the cams then turn them a couple of notches in the direction where the crank is then rotate it and they should line up at TDC.
So I put a chopstick in the hole at the end of the crank pulley or where the crank pulley bolt goes? I am not exactly sure where you want me to put the chopstick.
OOHHHH yea I will double check that way tomorrow, so if it's right then the piston should be at the top of the stroke at 0 on the crank right? What should I do if the crank is not at 0 when it's at the top of the stroke?
Either buy a new Damper or remark yours keeping in mind once they start to slip they don't magically stop
That would confuse me though, how would it change like that since there is a thick key on the crank shaft itself and a slot on the crank pulley?
The outer ring is bonded with rubber to act as a shock absorber for the crank, in operation each time a cylinder fires it whips the crank from the front to back, the damper absorbs this.