I came across a little problem, the original gasket for the throttle body has a larger center hole than the new one. Should I just leave it that way and put it on or cut the hole to size?
Changing my head gasket, me asking for your help while doing this
- Thread starter Doat
- Start date
I may need help figuring out the harness especially on the intake side if I can't find it in the TSRM but posting up pictures helps me a lot.
Here is how the car sits now
Here is how the car sits now
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A friend of mine gave me a blow off valve since he found it but we don't know what exactly it is lol, does anyone here know?
Apparently it's a TBO blow off valve
Apparently it's a TBO blow off valve
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Yea hopefully I can connect the harness today after I put on the fuel rail and also figure out the vacuum lines.
I have a timing question, if the crank is at 0 and the cam gears line up with the notches on the timing cover, then the car is timed correctly or do you have to also put the belt on a certain way?
FWIW that hose shaded in gray is a 16mm (5/8") coolant hose. I ended up bypassing the whole Toyota rubber thing and bought a silicone variant from here http://www.dphsiliconehose.co.uk/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=51 in a vintage black finish that I can't find on their site anymore. I've had it off and on maybe five times in the past two years and its still pliant and good as new, even being doused in oil/coolant/water from time to time.
For being in GB it got to my house in under a week, I was surprised.
That's also the same hose you can use on the back of the head, I need to buy another one...
As for timing, yes, that's correct. When you put the belt on everything should still be at 0, if it isn't you skipped a tooth and have to re-install the belt.
For being in GB it got to my house in under a week, I was surprised.
That's also the same hose you can use on the back of the head, I need to buy another one...
As for timing, yes, that's correct. When you put the belt on everything should still be at 0, if it isn't you skipped a tooth and have to re-install the belt.
that will have the crank perfectly timed to the cams, but you still need to get the CPS installed correctly.Doat;1861173 said:
Yea I saw a video about timing a 7mgte the notch on the gear lines up with a hole in the top of the CPS that spines with the exhaust cam, that is correct?Dan_Gyoba;1861181 said:
Yep, just be careful when installing so that it doesn't move!
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Sent from my G2x using Tapatalk 2
You pretty much want to get everything out of the way so that you have a straight shot in and don't bump the gears. You should be fine.
Sent from my G2x using Tapatalk 2
Sent from my G2x using Tapatalk 2
yea I have the power steering reservoir loose and the thermostat housing off along with the CPS so when I put that back in shouldn't have clearance problems. Should I flush the motor with oil before I start it since i had the gasket leak? I was thinking of pouring like 10 quarts of oil through the motor, 2 oil changes, before starting it but would that be good enough to not get a rod knock? I remember seeing on this forum and SF that people sometimes get rod knock after replacing the head gasket and to avoid that people flush the motor with oil but I am a bit tight on cash and my original plan was to spend like 100 bucks on oil and thoroughly flush it out but if I can use less that would help a lot. My leak wasn't that bad I didn't see any water or coolant in the pistons except for some oil/water mix on piston 6 but it was a very small amount.
People get RK after a HG because coolant ends up getting into the oil while disconnecting hoses, taking the head off etc. If you were careful you should be fine.
10 is too much haha, stick with 6 ish.
10 is too much haha, stick with 6 ish.
I thought people got rod knock after a BHG because acidic coolant mixes with the oil and eats away at the bearings. Probably also people let crap get into the oiling system where it also erodes the bearings. Either way, an oil change with minimal runtime after major engine work is never a waste.
Oh, for installing the CPS: TSRM link
Oh, for installing the CPS: TSRM link
Lol great I mostly had distilled water in the system so it probably evaporated when it reached the cylinders. I'll at least flush it once for sure, thanks for info and cps link
Glycol has the annoying tendency of adhering to whatever it touches. If it touches a bearing or a bearing surface then oil won't lubricate the surface/bearing.
Oil change after major work is definitely a good idea, I agree with that.
Oil change after major work is definitely a good idea, I agree with that.
If the engine is apart, the easiest thing is to hook a drill to the oil pump shaft and purge the oil lines that way with fresh oil.