Changing my head gasket, me asking for your help while doing this

Cyrus

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Apr 21, 2008
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should be, just make sure you dont have any clogs. the smallest (and most likely to clog) pinch point is probably the throttle body orifice. make sure that is nice and clean.
 

Doat

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Feb 6, 2012
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Will do, thanks. Hopefully my friend's impact wrench will work so I can change my timing belt. I have a feeling I am missing something because I am pretty much at the point of putting it back together lol.
 

Doat

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Feb 6, 2012
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Update:
The head is on at the moment and found out the hard way that you have to put the head on first then the ARP studs but then I found out you have to put the washers in and then put the studs in. So right now I am eating and will fix my mistake in a little bit but here is a pic of the head gasket in place.
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Torqued to 90 ft lbs
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I want to change the valve cover bolts, pretty stupid how they used a philips head instead of a normal bolt head, where can I get regular bolts that would fit? I am not sure if home depot has the right bolt threads for cars, ACE might have them I think. Also what kind of oil do you guys recommend? A friend of mine who used to work on supras, MK3s and mostly MK4s, recommends I go mobile 1 synthetic. One more thing, what spark plugs do you guys recommend? I am just going to run stock so I don't need anything fancy just something good for the 7M.
 
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Dan_Gyoba

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Aug 9, 2007
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The valve cover bolts are 6mm by 1mm thread pitch. 25mm length is good, from memory. Many people use allen key head screws to replace these, since they look nicer, but I've used regular 10mm hex head cap screws and they're just fine.

DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN THEM. It's actually pretty easy to break the mounting ears off of the valve covers. I've seen it happen. This is why they use a phillips head, I think.

Also, the factory screws are also aluminum, so they don't have galvanic issues in the aluminum head. I haven't had a problem with stainless screws, but the black allen key head screws seem to rust pretty easy, even if they are covered in oil, like they will be on the 7M head...
 

Numba1Stuna

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Apr 18, 2012
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I personally use NKG spark plugs. They are the best IMO. I also use Royal Purple(synthetic) for my oil.

Here is a pic of my vintage NGK Supra advertisement :)



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Doat

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Feb 6, 2012
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Yea I have been using NGKs ever since I started driving a car lol but from a quick search it seems that copper plugs are best for boosted motors but they wear out quickly. Stock, our cars come with platinum NGKs so I guess I'll get that since they are easy to find lol. I have read that people have noticed a difference switching from other oils to Royal Purple, I may do that switch then slowly transition to synthetic. Any tips on how to properly switch over to synthetic oil?

Oh, the trick for removing the crank pulley bolt, what fuses should I pull out so gas and oil and such doesn't squirt everywhere?
 

Numba1Stuna

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Apr 18, 2012
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There is this fluid at the auto parts house that you use when changing the oils, can't remember the name lol. But I just followed the instructions on the back of the bottle.

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Cyrus

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Apr 21, 2008
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you can pull the EFI fuse, but oil is all crank driven. the coolant system is belt driven by the water pump, so as long as you have no belts on, that wont matter. also, the amount of time the engine will be rotating should be very minimal. you just need to bump the starter, literally less than a second. doubt you'll be spraying fluids all over the place.
 

Doat

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Feb 6, 2012
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The only belt that is on is the power steering belt, so I guess I am good to go then. I'll be doing this later on after I get something to eat.
 

Dan_Gyoba

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Aug 9, 2007
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Cyrus;1860005 said:
but oil is all crank driven.
Incorrect. The oil pump drive shaft is driven by the timing belt. This probably doesn't make a difference for removing the crank pulley, since GENERALLY the crank pulley being on means that the timing belt is also on.
 

Doat

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Feb 6, 2012
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I removed the crank pulley and the timing belt cover is loose but the AC compressor bracket is holding it in place, do I just remove the 4 long bolts on the bracket then I can remove the cover? I have 3 bolts out so far but the last one is a major pain in the ass

Never mind I got it off and replaced the belt and tensioner. Going to finish it up tomorrow.
 
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Doat

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Feb 6, 2012
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I got the new intake manifold gasket on and put 2 nuts on the manifold just to hold it in place and I remembered the EGR valve goes in that tiny space, so I am figuring out if I have to put anything on before the EGR valve other than the gasket of course. I wish I took more detailed pictures of the EGR valve area now lol.
 

Doat

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Feb 6, 2012
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Today I put on the intake manifold, EGR valve, exhaust manifold, AC compressor is back on, timing belt and tensioner replaced, lower timing belt cover is on, and the turbo is on but I just put the nuts on the exhaust manifold that holds the turbo. Tomorrow I am going to try and get more done with the intake side but I really should have marked the plugs.
 

Doat

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Feb 6, 2012
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Houston, TX
Cyfi6 I want to kiss you, I checked my TSRM and couldn't find that. I just realized I don't have the online TSRM bookmarked on google chrome, done.