can"t find bad idle and loping....

mk3tattoos

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Apr 12, 2008
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Dirgle;1287244 said:
Are you sure it didn't move? The first time I did this test I thought it wasn't moving. Then I realized that it moves ever so slightly, barely noticeable. The ISCV doesn't affect idle quality only idle speed. no matter where the ISCV sets itself the air it bypasses is still metered and appropriate fuel is added.

Was there anything you changed or anything you modified at or around the time your idle became an issue. Anything at all even if it's not related.

it kida fluttered, but when i put the valve together and tested it, it looked to me to be open.

i have done many things in the past few months since it started, but has gotten worse.
i am going to check the bic downpipe and make sure it is sealed tight. thanks for letting me know about the iscv, dam i thought i was on to something.

edit: ok just checked it agian and it is working. it takes many repeat taps back and forth over and over. then it will max out and start going down. i am working on this all day. untill it is down anyways.
 
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YouGotSpooled

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Aug 3, 2006
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Yeah Im still not having any luck with this either. Wierd thing is today it ran REALLY rich instead of lean at idle..Then it eventually went back to lean. Go figure?

I checked SAFC2 seems to be wired correctly and works how it should. I also adjusted my Dashpot so it doesnt stall after I rev the car, but it is not related to the idle issue since its not functional at idle.

I know its a really really slim chance but have you tried a different ECU? Could try one and if it doesnt change anything its just one more thing to cancel out of the equation.
 

grimreaper

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I never fully corrected my funky warm restart/idle issue. However readjusting my dashpot cleared up 90% of my low idle when coming out of gear issue.

Also adding fuel back in at idle with the safc to please the vf's has sovled or mostly eliminated warm restart isssues. Hot restarts are another thing due to no fuel pump vsv but clears up quickly.

You ever check the vf's?
blue wire on safc goes to the VF pin on the ecu.
 

mk3tattoos

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grimreaper;1287487 said:
I never fully corrected my funky warm restart/idle issue. However readjusting my dashpot cleared up 90% of my low idle when coming out of gear issue.

Also adding fuel back in at idle with the safc to please the vf's has sovled or mostly eliminated warm restart isssues. Hot restarts are another thing due to no fuel pump vsv but clears up quickly.

You ever check the vf's?
blue wire on safc goes to the VF pin on the ecu.

i have the safc2 now, did you have to start your NE points at 800rpm and then go up from there?
i have not had a chance yet to set up vf wire. tonite though!

i found that my O2 sensor would not sit flat so i fixxed that and i am going to start car in 20min.
 

grimreaper

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i put two that low. One at 800rpms and one at 1800rpms. Any corrections at 800 rpms will smooth out to zero by 1800 rpms to avoid messing with the close loop control to much.
 

mk3tattoos

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ok started it up and it was running alittle on the lean side but then within 2 seconds it headed torwards rich. it ended at 13,8 and then slowly went to 14.5 very happy with the way it is running right now. When i put the O2 sensor on with no gasket it was easy to see it was not flush, i fixxed it by grinding and filing the surfes of the down pipes O2 flange.

i still have work to do, like hook up vf wire, put new seal in cps, and ground some things in the engine bay. i will keep you updated on how she is running.

i have a date i two weeks to go get her tuned by a friend at HB SPEED, john is a hell of a guy and is so good at what he doese. I told him my car is no were near being finished (lots of suspension mods-standalone......) so dont rag on me to much :)
 

YouGotSpooled

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So the o2 Sensor was your problem? It stays steady around 14.8 at idle/cruise with no SAFC2 corrections?

Also, do you have VSV on your engine?

I threw a code 21 today. Thing I noticed is if I disconnect my o2 sensor it doesnt change the AF ratio at all.
 

grimreaper

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^ safc corrections in closed loop should not be made in relation to af ratios. They should only be made in an effort to get vf's near 2.5 V.
 

mk3tattoos

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YouGotSpooled;1288483 said:
So the o2 Sensor was your problem? It stays steady around 14.8 at idle/cruise with no SAFC2 corrections?

Also, do you have VSV on your engine?

I threw a code 21 today. Thing I noticed is if I disconnect my o2 sensor it doesnt change the AF ratio at all.

It was the o2 sensor gasket, it would not lay flush. when i started it after fixxing it the A/F"s were normal @13.5 then as it warmed up it went to 15.3 and then 14.5. i noticed the idle was still low so i adjusted the the idle screw and dash pot with the slightest turn.

i do have a vsv on and working.

the A/F"s should change when you disconnected the o2. what kind of down pipe do you have, and are you sure there not leaking>
 

YouGotSpooled

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Im 95% sure its not leaking. I tried changing the gasket on it, no luck. I need to test it by the TSRM procedure though. I only did the propane torch test.

I am running a cooleeze downpipe right now.

Also, that screw on the top of the throttle body is closed from the factory. I believe jdub told me that. Also, it should idle at 650 rpm.
 

mk3tattoos

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^^^^ try checking all the sensor's that the ecu use's.

to day after a three hour drive, I let it halfway cool down and then started it to move it. The af's were lean and i got the ruff idle, but after 30 seconds it smoothed out and af's went normal.
so its still there, just not as bad. i am going to hunt down any bad sensor's.

do the same and let us know how it goes.
 

CarlosPTR210

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WoW I'm not the only one with that FKing problem.

I have the same problem or similar.



The vaccum at idle is from 11 to 13 psi of vaccum.

Mafpro setup: runing with 3bar map.
Timing at: 10
500 ~ 650 Rpms
Vf: 0.01
a/f: 17~18
 
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mk3tattoos

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my vac at idle is 15 and on down shifts its at 22.

i found out that if i tapped on my brakes a bunch my af's went realy high and idle even worse. so i unhooked the brake booster and plugged the vaccume line but the car had the same idle problem. so mabey there is still i leake some were. never ending battle.
 

CarlosPTR210

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mk3tattoos;1324940 said:
my vac at idle is 15 and on down shifts its at 22.

i found out that if i tapped on my brakes a bunch my af's went realy high and idle even worse. so i unhooked the brake booster and plugged the vaccume line but the car had the same idle problem. so mabey there is still i leake some were. never ending battle.

Do you test the CPS?

I already check and clean the injetors,
Replace fuel filter.
test the curren one and also install other:
coil packs, igniter, change sprak plugs, check ignition wires, tps.

Replace lower and upper gaskets of inatake maifold.

So I don't know what to do?

I will buy an other ECU and see what hapen.
 

CarlosPTR210

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mk3tattoos;1324940 said:
my vac at idle is 15 and on down shifts its at 22.

i found out that if i tapped on my brakes a bunch my af's went realy high and idle even worse. so i unhooked the brake booster and plugged the vaccume line but the car had the same idle problem. so mabey there is still i leake some were. never ending battle.

Damm, my vac at idle is 10 and down no more that 15
 

mk3tattoos

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Apr 12, 2008
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CarlosPTR210;1325066 said:
Damm, my vac at idle is 10 and down no more that 15

i think it is the ecu to, or one of the things it uses to get a signal from. let us know what happends with the ecu. that would be great if that was it, i realy do have a gut feeling that is it.
 

CarlosPTR210

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mk3tattoos;1325289 said:
i think it is the ecu to, or one of the things it uses to get a signal from. let us know what happends with the ecu. that would be great if that was it, i realy do have a gut feeling that is it.

I'll change the CPS the next saturday, is the problem continue then time to buy the ecu that is my last hope! :3d_frown: