Those clearences are terrible!
(no wonder the comp readings were so bad)
So the balloon didn't inflate at all?
(no wonder the comp readings were so bad)
So the balloon didn't inflate at all?
bhg, after bhg?
- Thread starter bobpogoman
- Start date
ok no, the ballon didnt inflated at all..
for the shims i will order ,102 ,098 ,107 inches to fix the cylinder 1 3 and 6 0 clearance one... the one that was ,005 i corrected it to ,0065 clearance, wich is in the spec... (with one of the 24 shims spare that i had...) non of them are thin enuff for my car...
i hope one of the ,98 shim will fix the no clearance one...if not, ill return it to toyota and get the right one (since i dont have a thinner enuff shim to measure the clearance...)
for the ,0075 exhause one i can pass it? (,0005 off tolerences) cuz i must remove the cam etc.. :S?
for the shims i will order ,102 ,098 ,107 inches to fix the cylinder 1 3 and 6 0 clearance one... the one that was ,005 i corrected it to ,0065 clearance, wich is in the spec... (with one of the 24 shims spare that i had...) non of them are thin enuff for my car...
i hope one of the ,98 shim will fix the no clearance one...if not, ill return it to toyota and get the right one (since i dont have a thinner enuff shim to measure the clearance...)
for the ,0075 exhause one i can pass it? (,0005 off tolerences) cuz i must remove the cam etc.. :S?
I wouldn't sweat the 0005, it would be nice to have a little more clearence but not essential.
The 8 thou is for when the engine is running and everything expands there's just enough gap so it's not hanging a valve open.
The 8 thou is for when the engine is running and everything expands there's just enough gap so it's not hanging a valve open.
kk oh for the shims i will order 2x ,98 and 1x107... ignore the numbers of my last posts... lets just pray it will be enuff of the 0 clearance one :S
ok so now that you have all your valve clearance issues figured out...did you try a pressure test with the cams removed?
yes, i told some posts ago... i did it without cams, everything is fina on all cylinders... just leaking to the oil pan (rings not breaked-in yet) and did the IJ trick with the baloon on the rad, plugging the overflow and the baloon dont even move a little...
lets fix these shims pon valves, and pray that all the oil i had in my cylinders were due to my wrongly-installed catch can :S
lets fix these shims pon valves, and pray that all the oil i had in my cylinders were due to my wrongly-installed catch can :S
io ordered my shims today, but toyota thinnest shims is 2,55mm wich is like 0,100 inches... it will be in the clearance even if i dont got the right shims for everything but for the one with no clearance lets pray god it will work... i got 0 clearance, with a shim of 0,108 , and ordered a 0,100 shim for it (smallest) if im lucky, i will get within clearances, if not.. anyone got a shim that is less then ,100?
You could take it to a machine shop with a Magnetic table surface grinder and have it ground to spec if needed Bob.
I'd grind the shim for free if you lived closer.....any respectable machine shop would do that for free cause it would only take then 10min at the most.
kk ima find an afordable machine shop if it isnt ok with the .100... the only one i know charged me 50$ to tig-weld my bov flange...
im a welder and i did the hole for it myself, they only had to weld it to the pipe...a kinda 10 min job... lol
im a welder and i did the hole for it myself, they only had to weld it to the pipe...a kinda 10 min job... lol
So, I've been following the thread for a while, because it contain all kinds of good information about trouble shooting.
I.J. : I'm sure many people will benefit for you taking time to explain all of this, I know I have.
However, there is just one thing that I'm not clear about; my father says that you would normally check the valve clearences with the engine warm. Is this accurate, I don't see how this would even be possible. I understand his logic, but are the measurements in the TSRM based off the engine being warm or cold?
EDIT: I just re-read the TSRM for the third time and noticed that it says that this is the COLD measurements.......so, sorry guuys, guess I answered my own question.
I.J. : I'm sure many people will benefit for you taking time to explain all of this, I know I have.
However, there is just one thing that I'm not clear about; my father says that you would normally check the valve clearences with the engine warm. Is this accurate, I don't see how this would even be possible. I understand his logic, but are the measurements in the TSRM based off the engine being warm or cold?
EDIT: I just re-read the TSRM for the third time and noticed that it says that this is the COLD measurements.......so, sorry guuys, guess I answered my own question.
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PKG: Bit hard to warm check when it won't run 
We were just working the problem step by step just in case it was something that didn't require the head to be removed (you get lucky now and again)
Either way hot or cold it would have had 0 clearence on #6
We were just working the problem step by step just in case it was something that didn't require the head to be removed (you get lucky now and again)
Either way hot or cold it would have had 0 clearence on #6
i just started the car, everything were looking fine but 3 things:
theres still some smoke coming from under the manifold) dont smell coolant.. looks more like oil.... like 2 liters of oil got there so lets wait for it to bake
i was alone and wasnt able to put the hood on...
my brother let his van right in front of the garage, so she will sleep here for the week-end, and wait for the initial road test..
little white smoke at start then perfect (no smoke) when the car ran hot...
more updates coming in 3 days (crossing fingers)
theres still some smoke coming from under the manifold) dont smell coolant.. looks more like oil.... like 2 liters of oil got there so lets wait for it to bake
i was alone and wasnt able to put the hood on...
my brother let his van right in front of the garage, so she will sleep here for the week-end, and wait for the initial road test..
little white smoke at start then perfect (no smoke) when the car ran hot...
more updates coming in 3 days
(crossing fingers)
i did, and the car is running well now, bah WAS.... i did like 500km this week-end,but my cheep-o bov just died... ive been lucky that i havnt been beating the car, just normal drive... it wont open any more :S so the car is at mom house now, ima order a synapse syncronic or hks ssqv, not sure actually.
+ my ebay vacuum silicon hoses are not good, they are all bending and making rastriction when the engine bay is hot and they burn really easy... so ima go to autoparts and get normal black hoses for now.
for the bov, hks or synapse syncronic?
my friend got a synapse, looks to work well but make the car idle a little more rought... then we block the bov with our hands the idle is better... so i think ima go with hks.
anyway i did my 1st oil change after 200kms, now im at 300 @ 500 ill do the second oil change. everything looks fine.
+ my ebay vacuum silicon hoses are not good, they are all bending and making rastriction when the engine bay is hot and they burn really easy... so ima go to autoparts and get normal black hoses for now.
for the bov, hks or synapse syncronic?
my friend got a synapse, looks to work well but make the car idle a little more rought... then we block the bov with our hands the idle is better... so i think ima go with hks.
anyway i did my 1st oil change after 200kms, now im at 300 @ 500 ill do the second oil change. everything looks fine.
Look up the synapse on the forums, there's a couple thread about it.
On a side note, most parts store vacuum lines aren't quite the right size (standard instead of metric), but if you're in good with your local dealer, they have em CHEAP and they fit exactly how they should. The lengths are listed in the TSRM as well...
On a side note, most parts store vacuum lines aren't quite the right size (standard instead of metric), but if you're in good with your local dealer, they have em CHEAP and they fit exactly how they should. The lengths are listed in the TSRM as well...
ok i replaced all vacuum lines with black ones from auto parts. my bov is working fine i just poped the ic piping that connect to the torbu, i tighted a little more my t-bolt clamp and now its fine
i only have a problem:
i got a turbosmart dual stage boost controller...
the boost is at MINIMUM on both low and high boost settings.i pushed the car a little (after at least 500km of break-in) and the boost il going real fast to 16 psi, but i dont hold it since i dont want to have an overboost,and i think my hks fcd isnt working well.
mods:
spearco replica ic,alu piping,ct-26 60-1 and safc neo+hks fcd.
i also have lexus afm and 550s Rc engeineering.Its written Cut and Norm on the fcd, ive put it at counter-clockwise (cut) and i dont get any fuel cut @ 16 psi.
next test: (to lower boost) is unplug by boost controller.
btw: my boost controller hi/low switch isnt plugged, but anyway shouldnt do anything since both settings are set to lowest boost.
i only have a problem:
i got a turbosmart dual stage boost controller...
the boost is at MINIMUM on both low and high boost settings.i pushed the car a little (after at least 500km of break-in
) and the boost il going real fast to 16 psi, but i dont hold it since i dont want to have an overboost,and i think my hks fcd isnt working well.mods:
spearco replica ic,alu piping,ct-26 60-1 and safc neo+hks fcd.
i also have lexus afm and 550s Rc engeineering.Its written Cut and Norm on the fcd, ive put it at counter-clockwise (cut) and i dont get any fuel cut @ 16 psi.
next test: (to lower boost) is unplug by boost controller.
btw: my boost controller hi/low switch isnt plugged, but anyway shouldnt do anything since both settings are set to lowest boost.
