Best oil for the 7mgte

deabionni

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Sep 16, 2007
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Jdub, during the Superbowl, I seen a commercial for Castrol Edge. I assume it's a new line of oil, and I'm curious if it's comparable to the GC that a lot of us run. According to their FAQ they say that it's made from a "combination of base oils which include PAO". Would that mean that it's a PAO based oil, or that there's just enough PAO in the base stock to say that it has it in there?

Don't get me wrong, I'm still sticking with my GC as it's readily available in my area; but I was wondering how comparable this oil would be to GC, just in case GC really is going the way of the dinosaur. :)
 

jdub

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That phrase..."made from a proprietary blend of base oils,which includes PAO" is what got my attention about this oil. Mobil 1 uses almost the exact phrasing when they describe their oil. More info will surface, but it has the appearance of an advanced Grp III oil...time will tell if it will be as good or better than Pennzoil Platinum in the Grp III category. At $8 a quart, I'm not too sure Castrol Edge could possibly be that much better than GC or Red Line ;)

Don't confuse this with the Castrol Edge sold in Europe and Australia...these oils are to ACEA specs and I know at least a couple of them are PAO oil. The Castrol Edge sold here is made in the USA. Buyer beware of the marketing hype...I promise you it is designed to separate you from your $$$.
 

dumbo

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Jul 16, 2008
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good to hear about rotella. I use the "fully syn. 040" in my turcell, not sure how it compares to the 1540 This 'GC' castol seems tempting for the supra, right now she get Castrol 'GTX' 1030 hmmmm
 

deabionni

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Sep 16, 2007
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jdub;1238615 said:
That phrase..."made from a proprietary blend of base oils,which includes PAO" is what got my attention about this oil. Mobil 1 uses almost the exact phrasing when they describe their oil. More info will surface, but it has the appearance of an advanced Grp III oil...time will tell if it will be as good or better than Pennzoil Platinum in the Grp III category. At $8 a quart, I'm not too sure Castrol Edge could possibly be that much better than GC or Red Line ;)

Thanks, jdub, that's what I figured. ;)

I'm just dreading the day that I walk into Autozone, and I no longer see the GC oil sitting on the shelf.
 

jdub

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dumbo - If you want to use a syn diesel oil in the Turcell, Delo 400 Syn 0W-30 is a better choice for your climate vs Rotella T (it's a bit too thick). Another is Pennzoil Platinum 5W-30. I like the Pennzoil better, but either will perform quite well.

GC beats GTX hands down for the 7M ;)

deabbionni - I'm not saying Edge is a bad oil...in fact, it just might be quite good. I am saying it better be good for the current asking price ;)

I've got the same thought about GC myself...Castrol might be going to a single (Edge) product line in the US. I hope they keep GC around!
 

deabionni

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Sep 16, 2007
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jdub;1238682 said:
deabbionni - I'm not saying Edge is a bad oil...in fact, it just might be quite good. I am saying it better be good for the current asking price ;)

I've got the same thought about GC myself...Castrol might be going to a single (Edge) product line in the US. I hope they keep GC around!

I didn't realize they were charging $8 per quart for the Edge line of oils. For that price, it had better be a PAO based oil, and not a group III based oil. (Although I highly doubt it, which is why I asked you about it). ;)

If the Edge truly is a group III based oil, and GC goes the way of the dinosaur; then it looks like I'll be switching away from Castrol altogether. (I just hope that's not the case, as GC is GREAT motor oil for the price).
 

dumbo

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jdub;1238682 said:
GC beats GTX hands down for the 7M ;)



Well next oil change it'll more than likely get GC if I can find it near Vancouver. Not bad for someone who was much agaist synthetic oil a short while ago...I hope you right jdub:)
 

jdub

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Last I heard WalMart and Canadian Tire was carrying it in Canada...just make sure it says "Made in Germany" on the back. You're going to like GC and you're going to like not changing it so often...that I am sure of ;)
 

dumbo

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jdub;1238767 said:
Last I heard WalMart and Canadian Tire was carrying it in Canada...just make sure it says "Made in Germany" on the back. You're going to like GC and you're going to like not changing it so often...that I am sure of ;)

Right on i'll be checking. I change my oil/filter every 5,000kms no questions asked. And usually more often actually. Thats with my supra, and every vehichle i've owned, call me paranoid.
 

Poodles

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Jul 22, 2006
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Royal Purple uses marketing hype that it increases power on a dyno. Straight mineral oil will as well, it doesn't mean it's protecting the engine. Also, I checked my oil every time I got gas and it consumed quite a bit. Raced on the highway for a few miles, got rodknock. Check the oil after limping it home and there isn't anything on the dipstick...

Tore the engine down and most of the seals where hard as a rock and falling apart. High milage yes, but I've heard about RP shrinking seals...

I get better and more consistant oil pressure out of GC and it doesn't consume nearly as much on this used shortblock.

None of their gear oils work well in our cars (well, maybe the diff, but I still wouldn't trust it). Do NOT use Max Gear or Syncromesh in our transmissions unless you want it to grind WORSE.

Now if only I could get GC at wal-mart...

/Ranting personal opinion that shouldn't be taken as fully fact. The engine failure is speculative, but I've heard of other people having consumption issues as well. The tranny point is from trying everything in my transmission to get rid of a second gear grind... Redline MT-90 is the only thing that's made a lasting difference.
 

jdub

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dumbo;1238774 said:
Right on i'll be checking. I change my oil/filter every 5,000kms no questions asked. And usually more often actually. Thats with my supra, and every vehichle i've owned, call me paranoid.

Change GC that often and you will be dumping perfectly good oil down the drain ;)
You can go 12,000 kms easy on a fill...just change the filter at 6,000 kms. Believe it or not, changing your oil TOO OFTEN has the exact opposite effect you would expect. There is a very good case for increased wear on a motor.
 

dumbo

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jdub;1238795 said:
Change GC that often and you will be dumping perfectly good oil down the drain ;)
You can go 12,000 kms easy on a fill...just change the filter at 6,000 kms. Believe it or not, changing your oil TOO OFTEN has the exact opposite effect you would expect. There is a very good case for increased wear on a motor.

Ok..not the answer I was hoping for, haha. Do you have an explantation/link for that?? Funny though I always take her easy for about 50-100kms after an oil change for peice of mind that air/ingressed contaminents are filtered ect.
 

Hmong_1G

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Dec 31, 2008
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Hey Jdub.. I'm new here but can you help me out on two questions.

1. I have been using a company ( Union Sangyo) making oil filters and other filtration products. Can you tell me if its a product worth using? I have no issues with them.... actually I have notice that their filters are very similar to OE. Any suggestions of more info on them would be great. I highly recommend them as alternatives for over the counter brands (Fram,STP,purlator,supertech,ECT). Notice in my 91 miata that oil pressure was higher with Union Sangyo filter and quieter motor. This was notice over a KnN, Fram, Bosch filter. Same oil weight and brand (castrol GTX 10w-30)

http://www.unionsangyo.com/product.htm

2. I have been following up on your write up on Mobile one... and very disappointed that mobile 1 is not a true syn. Problem is my 7M smokes on start ups ( valve stem seals or turbo seal) and I didn't know that oil weight will really matter by that much. So the truth is to not go thicker but stay OE specs or thinner? I just threw in 10w-40 mobil 1 and really didn't notice any changes. This is a 170k motor and no very very hard driving or mods. Is it safe to switch that out and return back to 5w-30 or 10w-30?
PS I have notice a knocking with the new oil... I'm not too worried as it goes away... but what a coincidence. No knocking on old oil... new mobil 1 oil; knocking?
 

Poodles

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Jul 22, 2006
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Thicker oil won't stop leaks, but it will raise pressure (resistance to flow) and starve bearings.

No comment on the oil filter though, until someone gets one and takes it apart to compare it's going to be speculation I think...
 

jdub

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dumbo;1238803 said:
Ok..not the answer I was hoping for, haha. Do you have an explantation/link for that?? Funny though I always take her easy for about 50-100kms after an oil change for peice of mind that air/ingressed contaminents are filtered ect.

Try this (also a link in post #50 this thread):
http://www.supramania.com/forums/showpost.php?p=1005476&postcount=4

Post # 47 this thread:
http://www.supramania.com/forums/showpost.php?p=1231920&postcount=47

Read the link jetjock posted (#53 in this thread):
http://www.supramania.com/forums/showpost.php?p=1231976&postcount=53

LMK what you think ;)
 

jdub

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Hmong_1G;1238816 said:
Hey Jdub.. I'm new here but can you help me out on two questions.

1. I have been using a company ( Union Sangyo) making oil filters and other filtration products. Can you tell me if its a product worth using? I have no issues with them.... actually I have notice that their filters are very similar to OE. Any suggestions of more info on them would be great. I highly recommend them as alternatives for over the counter brands (Fram,STP,purlator,supertech,ECT). Notice in my 91 miata that oil pressure was higher with Union Sangyo filter and quieter motor. This was notice over a KnN, Fram, Bosch filter. Same oil weight and brand (castrol GTX 10w-30)

http://www.unionsangyo.com/product.htm

2. I have been following up on your write up on Mobile one... and very disappointed that mobile 1 is not a true syn. Problem is my 7M smokes on start ups ( valve stem seals or turbo seal) and I didn't know that oil weight will really matter by that much. So the truth is to not go thicker but stay OE specs or thinner? I just threw in 10w-40 mobil 1 and really didn't notice any changes. This is a 170k motor and no very very hard driving or mods. Is it safe to switch that out and return back to 5w-30 or 10w-30?
PS I have notice a knocking with the new oil... I'm not too worried as it goes away... but what a coincidence. No knocking on old oil... new mobil 1 oil; knocking?


Poodles pretty much nailed it...what's going to help the smoking problem is to fix it ;)
Go with GC 0W-30 ot Pennzoil Platinum 5W-30. That knock you're hearing just might be reduced flow to the bearings till the oil warms up.

Concerning filters, read this:
http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=42763

I have no experience with Union Sangyo and OEM filters are not that good...in fact, they are kind of crappy. Get a Wix or a NAPA Gold and be happy ;)

I'm starting to repeat myself here guys...
 

Hmong_1G

Name the Place and time.
Dec 31, 2008
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Thanks for the fast reply. I know the best way to solve a problem is to trace it down and fix it. I'm not worried much about the smoking or knocking, but rather if I'm using the appropriate oil and weight. I heard good things about WIX filters but where I'm from no one stocks them. I'm happy with my union sangyo, but any expertise or experience can turn things around in a flash.

I was thinking about Royal purple 5w30 and a wix filter. I just did a complete coolant flush and all is well.

Thanks alot Jdub..... you are a mentor to us all.

Never did had good advice on Pennzoil motor oil... but very good luck with Pennzoil synchromesh transmission fluid ( Not in a MK3 of course).
 

dumbo

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Jul 16, 2008
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:aigo:

Now I don't know what to think...after learning valves in school, and reading all that.
Its weird to think some additives aren't active when the oil is new. I always figured oil was at its peak performance/protection when new and not aerated. In the last few days I've done a 180 on motor oils.

The only reason I put deisel oil in my tercell is because its got 200,000kms and no history. So I used "thicker" oil to help take up any clearances. AND THE ONLY REASON I WENT TO SYNTHETIC:mad: is because as you stated, 1540 is a little thick at -30c, on a cold startup.

Your advice to me was sound throughout my build, and since you've prolly forgot more than I know about motor oil...for now:naughty::biglaugh:
I will be switching to GC when I'm done beating on my car for 2 weeks in march, and only because it may be sitting for a long time before its driven again.(currently, Castrol GTX 10w30, and only about 700kms in 5days, been sitting 3 months:icon_frow)

One last thing, on one of the links you posted, it states Mobil 1 is good to
400F sump temps. Now I thought ALL oils begin to breakdown rapidly when they reach 250f/121c, is this not true for synthetic oils?

WOW to much typing, time to learn hydraulic valves...:icon_sad:
 

jdub

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For PAO and ester based oils...no. That's why they are used in jet turbines (ester is the 1st choice now) ;)
Not "loosing viscosity" is kind of a misstatement....all oils, including synthetics, drop in viscosity as they get hot. The difference is a PAO or ester synthetic will retain lubrication ability.

I certainly hope no motor I ever own hits a 400 deg F sump temp...I'd have a lot more to worry about than oil viscosity at that point ;)

Also realize at the longer change intervals, you will be adding make-up oil along the way...especially when you change the filter (up to a qt). You replenish the additives in your sump, adding to the life of the oil.
 

dumbo

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jdub;1239024 said:
I certainly hope no motor I ever own hits a 400 deg F sump temp...I'd have a lot more to worry about than oil viscosity at that point ;)

Of course haha, but 250f has been pounded in my head.

I never looked at make up oil as a good thing, just my friends old sentra ''that burned so much oil I just change the filter'', lol.

It makes sense, within reason.

I got a question, I just thought about.

If you did partial oil changes, and constant filter changes, would you cut down on intial oil change 'wear'? Then you would always have active additives 100% of the time, right? While still taking most solids, and water because its denser. Think about it?