Best oil for the 7mgte

[bovvinsuprahiro]

GC is a specific oil.

For oil filters: Wix, NAPA Gold, or PureOne. I prefer Wix (NAPA Gold is made by Wix) due to the bypass valve design and it is an excellent filter. More info here:
http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=42763

K&N air filters are crap. #1 - they don't filter worth a damn and #2 - the oil can damage the optical sensor on the Karman Vortex AFM found on the 7M-GTE. An AEM DryFlow is a far better choice.

deabionni -

would something like this from summit racing work? I have a 6in adaptor for K&N on my afm now so i just be able to just swap it right?

AEM 21-2099DK Air Filter Element Conical Synthetic 6 in

Product Code:AVM-21-2099DK
Manufacturer:AEM

 

[MA70witBoost]

jdub, whats your opinion on Lucas full syntetic 10W-30 in combination w/ a K&N Oil Filter. I haven't dropped my motor in the car yet but its soon to come and I was thinking about starting it with some 5-20 semi synthetic from work w/ a purolator filter, flushing it, leaving the filter, refilling w/ some more 5-20, driving it for a week or so to make sure everything is working how it should then chaning the purolator filter and semi synthetic for the Lucas and K&N. What do you think?

 

[jdub]

I think you should read this concerning break-in
http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=48993

From what info I can get, Lucas is a Grp III oil. Like I said earlier in this thread, if you want to run a Grp III oil use Pennzoil Platinum 5W-30. Lucas is a middle of the road oil (at best) that is way over priced.

Same for the K&N oil filters...they are made by Champion Labs. Same company that makes WalMart SuperTech and Mobil 1 filters. The difference for Mobil 1 is it uses a synthetic media. K&N and Mobil 1 are good filters, but a Wix (NAPA Gold) or a PureOne has them beat hands down.

Why do you want to use that combo anyway? And, why run a 10W-30 when a 0W or 5W-30 will have almost identical viscosity at ops temp, but be thinner (better flow) cold?

 

[bovvinsuprahiro]

bump

 

[Rennat]

So i just found out my work carries Royal Purple, and its the cheapest my cost oil, which means its in the $4-5 a quart range... whats your opinion jdub? i know it wont compare to redline, but is it better or worse than GC 0-30?

 

[jdub]

Read this thread...I talk about RP in post #3. The info has not changed.

http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=38768

 

[bovvinsuprahiro]

jdub is this the type of filter you are talking about>>>.

found it on summit racing website

AEM 21-2099DK Air Filter Element Conical Synthetic 6 in

Product Code:AVM-21-2099DK
Manufacturer:AEM

 

[jdub]

How about a link?

 

[bovvinsuprahiro]

How about a link?

My bad didnt click paste the first time...deedeedee


http://store.summitracing.com/egnse...tt=21-2099DK+&searchinresults=false&N=700+115

 

[MA70witBoost]

I think you should read this concerning break-in
http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=48993

From what info I can get, Lucas is a Grp III oil. Like I said earlier in this thread, if you want to run a Grp III oil use Pennzoil Platinum 5W-30. Lucas is a middle of the road oil (at best) that is way over priced.

Same for the K&N oil filters...they are made by Champion Labs. Same company that makes WalMart SuperTech and Mobil 1 filters. The difference for Mobil 1 is it uses a synthetic media. K&N and Mobil 1 are good filters, but a Wix (NAPA Gold) or a PureOne has them beat hands down.

Why do you want to use that combo anyway? And, why run a 10W-30 when a 0W or 5W-30 will have almost identical viscosity at ops temp, but be thinner (better flow) cold?

Well I neglected to mention that the motor im putting in my supra already has 65,000 Miles on it (but has been sitting for a few months since im freshening up the motor). As far as my reason's for the combo (what? K&N + Lucas?) The 5W-20 semi synthetic is free from work. I was able to get the 6 Quarts of Lucas 10W-30 also free. You taught me that what i believed to be true about motor oil weights is incorrect. I thought that the 10 weight would provide a bit more protection for the motor at cold temperatures. Also, as far as my choice in Lucas Motor Oil, Lucas Oil seems to have a good reputation. Same as the K&N. Atleast those are what led me to my choices. I take it i chose wrong?

 

[bovvinsuprahiro]

Well I neglected to mention that the motor im putting in my supra already has 65,000 Miles on it (but has been sitting for a few months since im freshening up the motor). As far as my reason's for the combo (what? K&N + Lucas?) The 5W-20 semi synthetic is free from work. I was able to get the 6 Quarts of Lucas 10W-30 also free. You taught me that what i believed to be true about motor oil weights is incorrect. I thought that the 10 weight would provide a bit more protection for the motor at cold temperatures. Also, as far as my choice in Lucas Motor Oil, Lucas Oil seems to have a good reputation. Same as the K&N. Atleast those are what led me to my choices. I take it i chose wrong?

read back on page 1 thur 3 of this thread and all your questions will be answered.

 

[jdub]

jdub is this the type of filter you are talking about>>>.

found it on summit racing website

AEM 21-2099DK Air Filter Element Conical Synthetic 6 in

Product Code:AVM-21-2099DK
Manufacturer:AEM

That's the correct type filter, but you want the make sure the diameter (in this case 6") matches the adapter to your AFM.

Well I neglected to mention that the motor im putting in my supra already has 65,000 Miles on it (but has been sitting for a few months since im freshening up the motor). As far as my reason's for the combo (what? K&N + Lucas?) The 5W-20 semi synthetic is free from work. I was able to get the 6 Quarts of Lucas 10W-30 also free. You taught me that what i believed to be true about motor oil weights is incorrect. I thought that the 10 weight would provide a bit more protection for the motor at cold temperatures. Also, as far as my choice in Lucas Motor Oil, Lucas Oil seems to have a good reputation. Same as the K&N. Atleast those are what led me to my choices. I take it i chose wrong?

The lowest 1st number you can get...in the case for Lucas, there is not a huge difference between the 5W-30 and 10W-30 cold viscosity wise. A lower 1st number indicates a lower cold viscosity...that is exactly what you want for a cold start.

Free is a different story
like I said, Lucas is a middle of the road oil, but you are not going to hurt anything by using it. I damn sure wouldn't pay to use it though.

So no break-in is required, correct? If you want to use the 5W-20 as a engine flush, that would be fine. You can run it a 1000 miles with no problem (especially since it's cold out). If the K&N filters are also free, use them...but, it is also a middle of the road filter. Keep in mind, the quality of a Wix is worth $5 or so when you switch.

Reputation and reality are often two different things...Fram also has a "good reputation" with a lot of mechanics and it is one of the worst filter you could possibly use.

 

[Rennat]

thats what i was thinking... just wanted your 2 cents on it.
Looks like i'll be sticking with my redline and wix filters.

and since i removed the oem filter head, when it was really cold out one day, the oem oil pressure gauge got up to 120psi (the top) it quickly went down cause it was ohhhh... 27ish degrees out, but thats ok right? And im on a shimmed pump with exactly 5mm of washers in there.

and this is with redline 5w-30, and a dual filter relocation pushing it through dual 51515 (giant ford oil filter) 1/2'' line all the way.

 

[MA70witBoost]

The lowest 1st number you can get...in the case for Lucas, there is not a huge difference between the 5W-30 and 10W-30 cold viscosity wise. A lower 1st number indicates a lower cold viscosity...that is exactly what you want for a cold start.

Free is a different story
like I said, Lucas is a middle of the road oil, but you are not going to hurt anything by using it. I damn sure wouldn't pay to use it though.

So no break-in is required, correct? If you want to use the 5W-20 as a engine flush, that would be fine. You can run it a 1000 miles with no problem (especially since it's cold out). If the K&N filters are also free, use them...but, it is also a middle of the road filter. Keep in mind, the quality of a Wix is worth $5 or so when you switch.

Reputation and reality are often two different things...Fram also has a "good reputation" with a lot of mechanics and it is one of the worst filter you could possibly use.

Correct. No break-in required. I was concidering compression testing the motor after initial start to make sure everything was good, but i was recommeneded to drive the car a bit so the rings would seat properly since its been sitting for a few months. Any need for this? Also plan on sending the oil out to blackstone after the synthetic swap.

 

[jdub]

Rennat -I've seen pressures in excess of 80-90 psi when it's cold on a shimmed pump...if it drops fairly quickly, it should be fine. Instead of using two conventional filters on your dual head, changing one to a Trasko bypass filter would significantly increase your overall filter efficiency.

Ma70 - Your rings should already be seated. Run the 5W-20 like you planned to get everything flushed out and then test compression.

 

[bovvinsuprahiro]

That's the correct type filter, but you want the make sure the diameter (in this case 6") matches the adapter to your AFM.

yeah it should my K&N is 6in so it should just be a swap over.

 

[Poodles]

- Haven't seen anything saying the AEM dryflows are better than the Apex'i. The only reason the AEM is better is they come in larger sizes for larger turbo inlet pipes. The media is the same style, and the Apex'i has a better internal cone system to promote flow. As there have been no tests to determine which is better, the Apex'i wins because of it's adapter.

- Oil flushes in a can can thin the oil too much and cause increased wear. The system that flows warm oil through the engine with a machine is the only true "flush." Any good synthetic will actively attack any buildups anyway (my engine is cleaner now after running GC than when I first dropped it in).

- I won't go anywhere near a Royal Purple product for personal reasons, there are far better products out there (GC, Redline).

 

[jdub]

I don't have any experience with the Apexi, so I don't bad mouth it. The media is very similar to the AEM DryFlow, so I imagine it will do a good job too.
I do know the cloth oil type (K&N) and the foam type (HKS) are crap.

I have seen flushes done with kerosene...you remove the plugs and use the starter (turning the oil pump) to run it through the engine. Follow with a 20W oil fill (same technique) to get the kerosene out, then fill with the oil you want to run. Might be useful if you had a BHG that put a lot of coolant in the oil system. Cleaning wise, a good synthetic will do a great job by itself like Poodles said.

Poo - sounds like you have the same thoughts about RP as I do about Mobil 1

 

[dumbo]

jdub, what are your thoughts on Rotella T. I've heard lots of good things and nothing bad. Just curious.

 

[jdub]

Rotella T is one of the best dino oils out there IMO...I use it in my Ford 7.3L diesel. Rotella T and Chevron Delo 400 still have healthy doses of ZDDP in their formulation. That makes both pretty popular with the domestic muscle car crowd running flat tappet cam V8's.