Bad AFM electronics or something else?
- Thread starter suprafanatic
- Start date
Not very good ones. And on top of that the car doesn't drive. Do you really not have a clue whats wrong with my car?
jetjock how does one check for load and speed? you stated and i quote "All the system needs to run the engine near normal is load and speed." so in theory does he have to check for load and speed to find and fix the problem, so the system can run the engine near normal?
OP: Good point. No way anyone could be more competent than you.
kidd: load and speed are the afm and cps.
kidd: load and speed are the afm and cps.
When they screw your car up from a simple oil change, not very competent. Or you pull your supra in to have something checked out and the mechanic says I don't like your car because its been modified, no one should modify a car. Or you have them do a head gasket job for you and they don't reconnect an oil line for the turbo? Sorry I don't trust our few shops here.
That's why I asked what the symptoms of a bad CPS would be. I've had wiring problems with a CPS before on a past supra, but the only problem was sometimes it wouldn't start. Had to jiggle the wires for it to start. Then I rewired the CPS and it was fine.
Have you checked your timing ? it could be somewhere to start also i would check your TPS sensor and wires
suprafanatic;1837323 said:
The car won't run. Cylinder identification and engine speed are needed.
Turbo Habanero;1837381 said:
I've already checked timing twice, and the TPS checked out fine according to the TSRM.
And Nick, what should I be testing the Hz of? And maybe I should also add, how do I properly check the Hz of it? I'm assuming at this point your talking about the AFM still?
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For the record I no longer have any check engine light on, and no more codes. But the car is still running terrible. Its pretty much dumping fuel, the smell is very strong.
Also, once I got the car to idle on its own I held the RPM's at about 2500 steady and while holding it there the RPM's just dropped on their own and the car died.
Maybe its a fuel problem and not an electrical problem? I just read up on the symptoms of a bad fuel pressure regulator and it sounds the same. The car will be hard to start, and even after starting it may stall several times. And you can have a loss of power when you step on the gas pedal.
It was stated long ago, but with the AFM unplugged the car will drive with a code 31. It will hit fuel cut at 3000rpm. It will not accept much throttle, but it is completely drivable. If you cannot get it to run like that with the AFM disconnected, then clearly you have other problems.
