Bad AFM electronics or something else?

suprafanatic

suprafanatic

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I reset the computer for a while. Then put the new AFM on. Car still had a hard time staying running at first, but after revving it for a while it would stay idling on its own. I took the car out for a quick drive and it still wont go past 1500 RPM's. The car shifts into higher gears really quickly below 1500 RPM so that the car doesnt have to rev past it. And if I push down on the gas pedal anymore to accelerate its like the throttle closes all the way rather than opens, the car loses all power.
 
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Nick M

Nick M

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suprafanatic;1833639 said:
So I went out to try and start the car today. It kept firing up then dying immediately when I touched the gas pedal, Kinda like its a kill switch lol. I got it to rev up once, and it revved up just fine, but when I let off the gas the RPMs immediately dropped and the car died. Any ideas guys?
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Test it with Hz, as indicated early on by JJ. Follow the EWD for the correct circuit, and circuit description/function.

suprafanatic;1833978 said:
Ok, I got the car started up and its staying alive now. Its also now throwing code 24. The car would start up and idle for about 5 seconds then just die, during that 5 seconds if i tap the gas it dies. However, if I punched the gas pedal it would hesitate then rev right up.

Also found that having the AFM unplugged did make a difference so I guess the AFM is still working to some extent. With the AFM unplugged I can't rev it up much. with it plugged In I can rev it up.
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If you remove a variable and the situation changes, the variable was part of the problem in some way. If you drive to STL with a buddy since your car doesn't run, I will show you how to check for free, and what to look for and why. If you don't have a 41 (did you count correctly), then his TPS signal is not broke. That is only a correction anyway, and shouldn't cause a stall. It will be difficult on you, but won't stall.
 
suprafanatic

suprafanatic

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I counted the code several times, it was code 31. not 41. And if the TPS was totally shot, not just out of adjustment, would it even throw a code? Someone had told me the TPS code only pops up when its out of adjustment. I unplugged the TPS just to see what would happen. The car still ran but the idle dropped way down to like 350-400 RPM, I could still rev it up though. However, there was still some stutter/hesitation.
 
suprafanatic

suprafanatic

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Thanks for the picture of the TPS lol.. I have a TSRM book right in front of me. The TPS tests checked out just fine from my understanding. VTA - E2 = .70 IDL - E2 = .11 VTA - E2 = 4.60 VC - E2 = 6.59 In Ohms. I check the plug for the TPS for volts. top connector was at 4.98 volts. 2nd down 0, 3rd down read .72 volts? last connector read 0.

Im alittle concerned that maybe the AFM that I got also isn't in good working order? Or maybe there both just fine and the problem is else where. I went through all the tests that the TSRM says to do checking between each terminal, both AFM's had the same readings for each test. Its says that E1 - KS should read 5-10 Ohms, but both of mine read like 156? Same with terminals E1-VC suppose to be 5-10 but mine are like 135? The only part they read properly on was the THA - E2 which is suppose to be 2-3k Ohms I got 2.66-2.76 so that was withing range.

At this point I'm just going through testing just about every electrical piece on the car by the way the TSRM says to do it, posting my findings. I might not be doing something exactly right, I'm no electrical expert by any means lol. If I'm doing something wrong tell me or if you see something in my findings that stands out to any of you let me know. I really need to get this car running its my only means of transportation.
 
suprafanatic

suprafanatic

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Ok, more news. I just tested the VSV "high temp line pressure up system" And its shot. I have no idea if that being bad would cause this problem or not?? The TSRM says to check for Continuity between each post on the VSV, should have continuity and read 30-50 Ohms, however, mine read nothing and had no continuity.
 
suprakidd

suprakidd

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you could loosen the bolts on the tps, start the engine, and slightly adjust the tps and see if that helps. plug in the afm while your at it.. this could help..

i don't think the vsv's would cause the symptoms your experiencing..
 
JStoked

JStoked

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Ok i have been trying to help him diagnose this myself. I sent him the afm on my dime just to help a brother out. I know for a fact the afm sent was a good one it worked fine o my car 6 months ago and has been in a zip lock bag till i shipped it to him. I also pointed to the tps and or maybe a loose ground or a bad wire and i am also pointing him to check his pines on his ecu wires but i am out of tow working and don't have all my resources to help him out right now. This is his everyday dr. So he could use the help

JJ. i look up to you and have learned so much from just reading your posts. This is you cool guy idk if you have a bad past or what no of my business. But can you please just point us in the right direction sir? Thank you.
 
suprafanatic

suprafanatic

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suprakidd;1837236 said:
you could loosen the bolts on the tps, start the engine, and slightly adjust the tps and see if that helps. plug in the afm while your at it.. this could help..

i don't think the vsv's would cause the symptoms your experiencing..
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The TPS is not out of adjustment, I've checked that. Why are you telling me to plug the AFM in? lol, its been plugged in this whole time, not sure where you got the idea it wasn't..

And I have this weird feeling JJ knows exactly whats wrong with my car but he's just not going to tell me... lol UGH
 
suprakidd

suprakidd

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i dont think it is, i had a crappy knock sensor connector that came off and threw code 51 i believe it is, and the performance hardly changed seeemed fine, i eventually soldered on a new connector that actually stayed on..
 
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