hi i have never driven a standard supra and i have an automatic i was wondering if there is a big power difference between the two? thanx
automatic turbo supras
- Thread starter boosthard
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im not totaly sure but i think a manual might have a little more torque at the wheels. correct me if im wrong.
Its roughly the same, though the auto runs with slightly less boost (< 1psi). I dont think it would be measurable.
A properly tuned car with a properly built Auto will out run a stick 9 out of 10 times....
Only because the shift malfunction between human and machine is alot less...
I good driver in a stick can take a auto... but I bet there is maybe 1 out 500 people here that would even think about shifting with out touching clutch peddle...
Only because the shift malfunction between human and machine is alot less...
I good driver in a stick can take a auto... but I bet there is maybe 1 out 500 people here that would even think about shifting with out touching clutch peddle...
More parasitic loss, and less boost.
Stock for stock, the stick was faster IIRC. Once you start modding you can throw that out the window...
Stock for stock, the stick was faster IIRC. Once you start modding you can throw that out the window...
They are a lot of fun to drive. The first time I drove one it was interesting since you diddn't loose boost at all between shifts. If felt very powerful.
Main differences,
stick:
You get more throttle response from the pedal mainly due to the fact you dont have a kick down cable. + there is no torque converter to make the response "slushy"
launching is harder due to the fact that you either bog or burn out.
The car "feels" more power full due to the better response from your pedal, thus more fun.
You lose ~ 15-20 hp through a 5 speed from the engine to your wheels. This difference remains the same despite your power levels.
Auto.
Launching can put you ahead if done right in a straight line.
controlling shifts from a roll can be a royal pain due to the fact your not in total control of shifting and your kickdown cable will make the gas pedal 2x stiff and less responsive thus making it feel, slow and slushy. When it does downshift with a properly adjusted kickdown cable and possibly some adjustment to the accumulators will snap your neck back.
The drive line in a stock auto will lose ~ 40hp due to friction. As power levels climb so does residual heat that increases your loss of power.
stick:
You get more throttle response from the pedal mainly due to the fact you dont have a kick down cable. + there is no torque converter to make the response "slushy"
launching is harder due to the fact that you either bog or burn out.
The car "feels" more power full due to the better response from your pedal, thus more fun.
You lose ~ 15-20 hp through a 5 speed from the engine to your wheels. This difference remains the same despite your power levels.
Auto.
Launching can put you ahead if done right in a straight line.
controlling shifts from a roll can be a royal pain due to the fact your not in total control of shifting and your kickdown cable will make the gas pedal 2x stiff and less responsive thus making it feel, slow and slushy. When it does downshift with a properly adjusted kickdown cable and possibly some adjustment to the accumulators will snap your neck back.
The drive line in a stock auto will lose ~ 40hp due to friction. As power levels climb so does residual heat that increases your loss of power.
AJ: There's no "kickdown cable" fullstop..... 
There's a line pressure cable that actuates a spool valve with a very light spring on it so if your pedal pressure is 2x there's something else wrong.
After dynoing I'm seeing about a 20rwhp difference between a manual and an auto (If I kept the converter locked during the pull it would be far less)
I use an aftermarket standalone shift controller and once programmed it's "stab and steer" with the car reacting the same every single time.
If you were racing this consistancy would be invaluable, I've ran my car with much more power and a 5 speed Tremec TKO and even with less hp it's MUCH faster with the auto.
There's a line pressure cable that actuates a spool valve with a very light spring on it so if your pedal pressure is 2x there's something else wrong.
After dynoing I'm seeing about a 20rwhp difference between a manual and an auto (If I kept the converter locked during the pull it would be far less)
I use an aftermarket standalone shift controller and once programmed it's "stab and steer" with the car reacting the same every single time.
If you were racing this consistancy would be invaluable, I've ran my car with much more power and a 5 speed Tremec TKO and even with less hp it's MUCH faster with the auto.
Personally I prefure the better control of a stick. Hitting the gas and waiting for the tranny to make up it's mind sucks.
Not to mention the experience of grabbing a gear, popping the clutch and nailing a corner.
I'm also of the same mind as Clarkson on the "flappy paddle" shifters...
Not to mention the experience of grabbing a gear, popping the clutch and nailing a corner.
I'm also of the same mind as Clarkson on the "flappy paddle" shifters...
Nothing beats the feel of a manual, but in a good number of cases an auto is faster =\ I still don't think I'll ever buy an automatic if I have a choice (some newer cars seem to be going towards auto only) simply because of how much more fun it is driving a manual. Even those shiftable automatics are still slow to respond and annoying, but the only ones I've ever used are the Dodge Charger ones and the Pontiac G6's... I'm sure a tiptronic or something is better.
An automatic nets less power to the wheels because of the slippage of the fluid coupling. It has less load on the engine than a manual. Despite what one poster said. That is why boost is lower.
Autos are 4.8-6.0 with a CT26, and the manual is 5.5-7.5 stock. More load(parasitic drag), more boost.
Autos are 4.8-6.0 with a CT26, and the manual is 5.5-7.5 stock. More load(parasitic drag), more boost.
IJ.;1095549 said:
AMEN.
Especially if that auto trans is set-up properly.
IJ.;1095549 said:
Would you mind elaborating on your stadalone shift controller?
Are you using paddles?
I want to go standalone on my trans and also would like to adapt some sort of ratchet shifter, but it seems they're all cable operated. Failing that, I might go paddles or TH350 (solves the shifter prob).
My 92 turbo started out life as an automatic. I managed to kill 2 autos, the first was the stocker with 96K miles on it. The second was out of a non-turbo (got it for free, thanks again Carl!) and it lasted less than 4K miles. I was running around 275RWHP, so figure about 330 at the crank.
I converted to a 5-speed a few months ago and while the car "feels" faster, I know that the automatic launched and shifted far faster than I can. It's much more fun to drive, but I know that it's lost a step.
At least now that my weakest link has been addressed I can add more go-fast stuff
I converted to a 5-speed a few months ago and while the car "feels" faster, I know that the automatic launched and shifted far faster than I can. It's much more fun to drive, but I know that it's lost a step.
At least now that my weakest link has been addressed I can add more go-fast stuff
I personally like the automatic, I have owned 1 5-speed car along time ago, its hard to beat a automatic.
Manual car is cool, but the comfort of an auto, that's just something special. And Supra's auto isn't that slow IMO?
I, too, love the feel of a 5 or 6-spd.
...but I'll agree with everything said here.
"Sarah" is currently sporting a built-AT with a 3500 stall TQ.
Last dyno (SILV'07) on the STOCK CT26 netted 305 RWHP/350 RWTQ
at ~15lbs boost.
Since then, I've added the 57-trim CT, upped my FP to ~60lbs at idle (vac.pulled) and some MT ET Radials.
I'll be gunnin' for the Group-1 title at the Drags this year:
http://vegas.supras.org/v08/drags.asp
And three more things with the Autos: You get the big extra fan behind the radiator (just behind my monster Tranny fluid cooler) AND higher gears in the back for excellent Highway cruising speed, RPM's & mileage.
...and with a little brake pressure with the left foot, you can do KILLER burnouts. This is a picture of me looking at the damage after the SnS at SILV '06:
...but I'll agree with everything said here.
"Sarah" is currently sporting a built-AT with a 3500 stall TQ.
Last dyno (SILV'07) on the STOCK CT26 netted 305 RWHP/350 RWTQ
at ~15lbs boost.
Since then, I've added the 57-trim CT, upped my FP to ~60lbs at idle (vac.pulled) and some MT ET Radials.
I'll be gunnin' for the Group-1 title at the Drags this year:
http://vegas.supras.org/v08/drags.asp
And three more things with the Autos: You get the big extra fan behind the radiator (just behind my monster Tranny fluid cooler) AND higher gears in the back for excellent Highway cruising speed, RPM's & mileage.
...and with a little brake pressure with the left foot, you can do KILLER burnouts. This is a picture of me looking at the damage after the SnS at SILV '06:
americanjebus;1095545 said:
ya definately my modded supra does feel a little slushy and bogs a bit because you can reach higher rpms and rev faster in a stick than auto, thats wat i was thinking.
Forgot to mention the issue with autos once you start modding.
If you don't have some way to control shift points, you'll hit redline because the shift delay. The tranny is set to shift at a certain RPM before redline so you don't bounce of the rev limiter, but if you have a lot more power, you get there a LOT faster and you bounce off of it.
I know it's an issue with the MKIV guys when they drag race, so they usually shift manually or get a tranny controller.
If you don't have some way to control shift points, you'll hit redline because the shift delay. The tranny is set to shift at a certain RPM before redline so you don't bounce of the rev limiter, but if you have a lot more power, you get there a LOT faster and you bounce off of it.
I know it's an issue with the MKIV guys when they drag race, so they usually shift manually or get a tranny controller.