No one ever said I wasn't a good driver. In all seriousness... I thought the mk3 abs pump was only 3 channel.... not 4.suprarx7nut;1905555 said:Lol. Wow. If you can modulate brake pressure that well you are wasting your life not being a professional race driver. In unexpected emergency situations where you need to stop as fast as possible abs will win every, Single, Time.
No matter what you think you're skill level is I guarantee its not as effective as abs. As pi said, abs modulates each wheel INDIVIDUALLY. which you will never do no matter how good your skills are.
Save the ricer mods to the civic owners and keep your advanced, stability-saving braking system the way Toyota engineers spent millions upon millions perfecting.
As JJ said... crack me up, lol.
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oh man, that's sketchy.... it all depends on the conditions!!! I've encountered all sorts of snow. ranging from lots of grip to 03p141592654;1905572 said:On snow and gravel , newer systems use pulse rate reduction to improve performance while still maintaining control. It's been my experience though that locking the wheels is no panacea in such conditions anyway.
pretty much the only time I would engage it would be on purpose. I push my cars to and over the limit so I'm as familiar as possible with how they will react.adampecush;1905563 said:I honestly can't think of a reason not to have ABS on the street. If you are regularly actuating ABS on the street, you are either driving like a retard, you need a lot more tire under the car, or both. As far as track driving is concerned, for a pure track car, sure, ditch the ABS if you think you can outbreak it. Your laptimes will reflect the truth. In my BMW on track, I rarely even actuate the ABS due to the amount of tire I have under the car - with that said, that system is far more advanced than the supra's.
89jdm7m;1905496 said:yeah... there is this thing called limit of adhesion... you can still steer while braking..
It sounds idiotic,
On top of that my reaction time is nowhere close to being slow.
BTW pumping the pedal is NOT what you want to be doing. There IS a correct way to modulate pressure WITHOUT pumping the pedal. That's barbaric at the very least. You just want to use the correct amount of pressure. That is all. The amount may vary depending on what it is you're doing, but I am correct in saying that.
mk3sons;1905568 said:Pretty sure its well known you can stop faster by locking up the tires in snow, right? Obviously without as much control...
89jdm7m;1905601 said:also should note that the roads here are pretty nice, and I see almost no winter driving (think ice or snow) although it would be driven almost every single day, same as all of my other cars. BTW I've been driving a corolla for several yeas now without abs, and I've locked up my tires plenty of times to where I would have wrecked the shit out of it, but MODULATION of brake pressure (if only the slightest ease off the pedal) would save my car. It's happened more times than I can count. You guys are not me. You don't know what it's like to be, you don't know how I drive, or how good I am at it. I hate saying BS like this, because that's just asking for bad luck, but I said it. I'm dead set on having no ABS as I personally feel SAFER without it.
oh man, that's sketchy.... it all depends on the conditions!!! I've encountered all sorts of snow. ranging from lots of grip to 0
pretty much the only time I would engage it would be on purpose. I push my cars to and over the limit so I'm as familiar as possible with how they will react.
that said, in regards to advancement of technology... I DID like the 4 wheel abs on my 07 tacoma... very nice.
Stoptech "ABS and Big Brake Kits: Fundamentals said:In order to best explain how the ABS "depends" on the base braking system, let's have a look at a typical ABS event at the micro level - from the processing algorithm's perspective.
Say you are driving down the highway at 75 MPH (the posted speed limit, of course) when all of a sudden the truck in front of you spills its load of natural spring water across all three lanes of traffic. Now, this alone would not be so bad, except the water is still sealed in 55-gallon drums - one of which would certainly make a mess of your car's front fascia. Time to take evasive action.
Being the trained high-speed individual that you are, you immediately lift off the gas, push in the clutch (you are driving a manual transmission, right?), and simultaneously nail the brake pedal...but in the heat of the moment you hit it a little too hard.
Meanwhile, the ABS is hanging back watching the world go by, seeing a constant stream of 75 MPH signals from its four wheel speed sensors. Let's call this "observation mode." Upon your application of the brake, however, the ABS snaps to attention, its antenna up, ready for action. You have just hit the brake pedal after all, and who know what's coming next.
After 50 milliseconds (it's actually much faster than that - 7 to 10 milliseconds is typical - but it makes the math easier) the ABS takes another snapshot of the wheel speed information in an attempt to figure out what's going on. This time the wheel speed sensors are all reporting a speed of 74 MPH. Doing a quick calculation, the ABS determines that in order to have slowed 1 MPH in a 50ms period the wheels must be decelerating at a rate of 0.91g's. Because you are driving a sports car, the engineer who calibrated the system 'taught' the ABS that your car is capable of decelerating at this rate, so the ABS continues to hang back and watch the event from the spectator's booth. No problem so far.
The next 50ms, however, are a little more interesting. This time around, the wheels are reporting 72.5 MPH. Now, it may not seem like a big jump, but to slow 1.5 MPH in a 50ms window equates to a deceleration of 1.36g's. Not alarming, but the ABS 'knows' that based on this deceleration level, the wheels are probably beginning to slip a little more than they should - after all, your car is probably not decelerating at quite 1.36g's..and any error between the two indicates slip.
ABS is now in "ready mode." It's probably too soon to jump in, as the wheels might spin back up on their own in the next 50ms loop, but things are definitely looking bad!
As the first barrels of spring water bounce left and right, missing your car by inches, you stay on the brake pedal but push even harder. This time around, the left front wheel speed sensor is registering 68 MPH - a 4.5 MPH drop in the last 50ms, or a deceleration level of 4.1g's. Doing the math faster than you can (after all, you are busy dodging barrels of spring water), the ABS quickly comes to the conclusion that, unlike the left front wheel at this moment, the car cannot possibly be decelerating at 4.1g's. Best case is that the car was decelerating at 1.0g (or thereabouts) over the last 50ms, so the 'real' vehicle speed is still somewhere around 71.5 MPH, even though the left front wheel speed is reading 68 MPH - a 3.5 MPH error.
So, based on a wheel deceleration of 4.1g's, a slip level of 5% (3.5 MPH 71.5 MPH), and a couple other factors not listed here, the ABS jumps in and enters "isolation mode." (Note that the wheels are nowhere even near "wheel lock" - the 100% slip point.) The first thing the ABS does is shut off the hydraulic line from the master cylinder to the left front caliper, isolating the driver from applying more pressure - after all, it was the driver that got us into this mess in the first place.
Next, the ABS starts work in "decrease mode," releasing the excess pressure from the left front caliper in order to allow the left front wheel to reaccelerate back up to the vehicle's actual speed - 71.5 MPH in this case. Since the ABS knows how quickly the wheel is decelerating (4.1g), how fast the car is actually going (71.5 MPH), and the pressure-torque characteristics of the left front caliper/pad/rotor assembly (we'll come back to this one in just a second), it can precisely calculate how long to open its release valve to vent that extra pressure, leaving just enough pressure in the caliper to maintain 1.0g of deceleration (or thereabouts).
Let's say that calculated time turned out to be 10 milliseconds (this again makes the math easier later on). Bang! Valve opens, pressure is released, and 10ms later it closes, leaving just the right amount of pressure in the caliper so that the wheel spins back up to exactly 71.5 MPH, but continues to decelerate at 1.0g. Everything is going as planned.
Time to close the loop and enter "increase mode." Once the ABS sees that the left front wheel has returned to near the 'real' vehicle speed, it slowly reapplies pressure from the master cylinder to make sure that maximum sustainable brake force is being utilized. To this end, the ABS calculates precisely how long to pulse open the isolation valve, slowly building pressure at the left front caliper until once again the left front wheel begins to slip. It performs this calculation based on - you guessed it - how quickly the wheel is re-accelerating, how fast the car is actually going, and the pressure-torque characteristics of the caliper/pad/rotor assembly.
In our hypothetical little world, the ABS calculated that four pulses of 5ms each were necessary to build the wheel pressure back up to the point that the wheel began to slip again, returning to "isolation mode."
The cycle is repeated on all four wheels simultaneously until either the driver gets out of the brake pedal, or until the car has come to a stop. Hopefully, this did not include punting a spring water barrel or two along the way as the ABS kept all four wheels slips in the 5%-10% range, allowing you to turn and swerve to your heart's content as the drums bounced out of your path. Happy car, happy driver.
refer to earlier posts. I had a buddy that did this. DID NOT TURN OUT WELLPoodles;1905763 said:All this is as simple as removing the ABS fuse...
If you really wanted to be spiffy, you could wire a switch to cut power like removing the fuse would do, only from in the cabin.
Nick M;1905634 said:I know, I said steer while locked, or what would be locked. You haven't had to do it, as shown by your explanation below about things I am very familiar and educated on.
Nick M;1905634 said:Well, yeah. (you set yourself up, I had to do it)
Could be for all I know. Apparently my skills make such an impression on people I was this close || to racing in a hooters cup car. So are you prepared to tell me what MY reaction time is like? Didn't think so.Nick M;1905634 said:You think your abilities are better than the most accomplished race car drivers? Because they can't beat it either.
as stated locking was intentional, so in that light, no I actually achieved exactly what I wanted which was to become better acquainted with the limitations on my car/tires/condition.... you sir are incorrect.suprarx7nut;1905696 said:Above you say you've locked up the wheels and then used modulation of pressure to control the braking, supposedly better than ABS. The moment you lock up the tires you have lost. Plain and simple.
Grandavi;1905666 said:To the OP though, you didn't really ask a question about the ABS delete. You originally asked about replacing brake lines. Now... from what I read, I am assuming you thing that the car would brake just fine without ABS. This is true except in the case of actually needing ABS. ABS should only engage when you need it (same as air bags). So, I am curious, why do you want to delete the ABS system? Is it because yours has failed or is failing? Is it simply because you think your better off without it? Lets get down to the issue here... lol. I think that you can agree with the majority that the ABS system is designed for a function that replaces the "human panic" system of slamming on the brakes to allow for vehicle control under a fast braking or traction loss scenario. Your car will brake just fine without it in a normal "stopping" situation, but when it engages, it will outperform your foot capabilities simply by design.
Also, I dont know if you would be adding liability if you were to remove a safety feature from your vehicle. If you were to be involved in an accident that involved severe body injury or death of someone else, they do look over your car quite carefully. An ABS delete could move liability to you personally away from the insurance companies (not a very happy situation).