A/C recharge

[Poodles]

bumping an old thread, but it's got the most info...

texas heat finally kicked in, and my A/C decided to check out...

The pulley on the A/C compressor is wobbling, and the clutch does work when the A/C buton is pressed, but it doesn't grab...

is the clutch just dead, or did the compressor seize?

System was convered to R134 by previous owner, I have no idea how well as it's never blown REALLY cold (not like my dad's camry that came with R134 from the factory).

I'm thinking of just replacing damn near everything but the hardlines and not having to worry aobut any leaks. Should I change all the o-rings to the R134 ones, or should I just bite the bullet and buy R12 and go that route? (that test looks easy...)

 

[Poodles]

bump...

 

[jetjock]

Sounds like a bad clutch bearing. You can replace just the clutch but if the comp has lots of time on it replace it before Black Death comes a callin'. Less hassle and you end up with a new clutch and shaft seal, a common leak spot in even well maintained systems. Or rebuild it yourself. The Denso 10PA is a piece of cake compared to most compressors.

Either way you'll have to remove it so might as well do a flush. Replace only what's needed, add fresh oil, evac, leak check and charge. If the condenser is even slightly restricted replace it, especially if the compressor does turn out to be shot. Even if you don't replace it clean the outside and be sure the fan clutch is working. Remember, the more care you take in doing all this the better it'll work and the longer it'll last.

Your call on which refrigerant to use. Myself, I'd go back to CFC-12. The system was designed for it and all things considered it'll give the best performance. It's getting damn hard to buy retail in small cans so unless you want to spring for a 30 pounder ebay is your best bet. That said this system converts well to 134 if done right.

The 609 test is easy but it won't make you an AC tech. More study needed for that. Try the Haynes book. An oldie but goodie for beginners.

 

[quake]

bump...

sounds like it needs a clutch the center and the pulley should spin freely replace the clutch chect the tsrm. it needs to be shimmed properly then buy a new receiver dryer dont take the plugs out of it! replace only the o-rings that are leaking then drop it off to toyota to have the dryer installed and to have it evac & charge done again dont take the plugs out of the dryer

 

[CassMori]

Sorry to bring this thread up again, but it seemed the best place to ask my question. First, a bit of background to the problem:

When I got my Supra, the engine was out, & the A/C system had been disconnected for an unknown period of time. I replaced one of the lines to that runs into the firewall, due to damage from the turbo hitting it, done by the previous owner. Nothing else was replaced. I knew essentially nothing about automotive A/C systems at the time, so I just bolted everything back together, & used one of the $50 AutoZone r134 conversion kits on it. I know now this was not the correct way to do it. However, it has worked fine for almost three years.
This summer, I noticed the compressor kicking off when sitting at traffic lights, etc., so I thought the charge may have gotten low, advice from others who know more than me suggested this as well. Checking with a guage seemed to confirm this, so I added more r134. This caused the compressor to perpetually kick on/off, every few seconds, accompanied by what seems to be the sound of the pressure switch turning on/off. Further checking, this time with a full manifold guage set from my uncle's car lot revealed that when the compressor is on, the low side is approximately where it should be for r134 (a little high per the TSRM, however), and very high on the high side, over 300, then going over 350 before the high pressure switch kicks the system off. Then the cycle repeats, several times a minute.
My "advisors "have indicated this is probably the expansion valve gone bad, most likely from the poor r134 conversion.

Now, for the question! Is the assumption that the expansion valve is the culprit for my current problem correct?
Part 2! Is there a drop-in replacement expansion valve that is designed for r134 that will work w/ my car, or should I use the correct expansion valve? Mine was built 12/88, so it should have the earlier-style expansion valve, don't know if that makes a difference or not.

Sorry for the extra long post, but any help or advice (other than rip out the entire system and replace it all ) would be appreciated.