7MGTE Starts, But Stalls Shortly After....Update July 17

IBoughtASupra

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Mar 10, 2009
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I have a 7M that I rebuilt and now I am trying to start it. We changed to a T4 67 trim setup and still using the stock AFM. I am trying to start the car and it gets spark and fuel.

My problem is when trying to start the car, it will shortly rev to about 600 RPM and then stall. I checked for codes and I had a code 51 which I fixed with adjusting the TPS. The Idle control valve was stuck when I took it out. It refused to move when I plugged it in and turn the ignition on, replaced motor with one that works.

I had a code 31, which is the AFM. I cleaned the AFM with brake cleaner which messed that one up. I replaced it with a good one, still code 31, this one had an inch hole covered by electrical tape. Still got code 31. I know it is not anything with my harness because it is a brand new Toyota harness, what are the chances of having a defect in the harness that I just bought from them.

Recap:
-Fixed Code 51
-Replaced Idle Control Motor, Other One Refused To Move
-Vaccum Is At 21 When I Do Get It To Idle After Revving And Releasing Throttle Slowly
-Sudden Blimps Of The Throttle Stalls The Car
-Engine Revs Through RPM Range Fine With No Misses
-Currently A Code 31 After The Two AFMs
-Fuel Pressure Is At 38 With Vaccum ( New AFRP With Stainless Steel Hose, Dampner Removed)

What Are Your Thoughts Guys?

Here Are Pictures Of My Setup, Maybe You Can Find Something Wrong With It.
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Any Tips?
 

IBoughtASupra

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IJ.;1576975 said:
Big Braided Line is awefully close to the Coil outputs.

I did not know that is bad. Are you talking about reasons a fire can start, shorting something out or interfering with the signal because I removed the braided line and used a regular rubber hose and the idle problems still existed.
 

mkiiichip

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Although likely not the issue, the two vacuum ports on the throttle body are ported vacuum and not manifold vacuum. This is not the port you wold use for the AFPR, it needs manifold vacuum.

Hard to tell where the other one currently goes to, but id guess the heater valve. Which is not the right port for that either.

Have you checked for vacuum leaks?
 

IBoughtASupra

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Ok, I tried that and still didn't solve the issue. Hooked up the AFPR to the back of the manifold under the brake boost line. AFPR is new as well.
 
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IBoughtASupra

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super.secret.supra.club;1577034 said:
idle up valve hose.


nothin to do with your problem but, where does the valve cover vent to?

What is wrong with the Idle Up Valve Hose?

Valve Covers Are Going To The Intake Like Stock, I Have All The Fittings, I Did Not Put Them On Yet. I Do have The Port From The Throttle Body Going To The Turbo Intake Pipe By Using The Black Hose You See Behind The Intercooler Pipe In Picture 3.
 

IBoughtASupra

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whitemike;1577211 said:
1) Did you try moving the braided line like IJ suggested?
2) Check firing order/etc?
3) Calibrate TPS? Check timing?
4) How SURE are you, that this AFM is good?

1)Yes.
2)Yes, Coil Pack Firing Order Was Used.
3)Going To Do That Now.
4)Not Sure, Going To OHM And See.
 

IBoughtASupra

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I decided to OHM everything and looks like the AFM is bad and my injectors are 13.4-13.5 which are in spec for GE. WTF? I got these injectors that was on a turbo engine that I took apart. GE injectors on my GTE, maybe that is why it refuses to idle but revs fine? Summer class tomorrow, so I will have to wait until then and change out these injectors.
 

whitemike

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IBoughtASupra;1577334 said:
I decided to OHM everything and looks like the AFM is bad and my injectors are 13.4-13.5 which are in spec for GE. WTF? I got these injectors that was on a turbo engine that I took apart. GE injectors on my GTE, maybe that is why it refuses to idle but revs fine? Summer class tomorrow, so I will have to wait until then and change out these injectors.

Don't touch the injectors until you change the AFM dude.
 

IBoughtASupra

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Really, called Aaron since I get everything for my Supra from him, and he said that the injectors can be a problem. I will swap out the AFM though.
 

CajunKenny

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Nov 15, 2007
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Like Mike suggested, I would change out the AFM before I swapped injectors. It's easier! :)

No offense; but, your car looks like a vac nightmare! I think vac routing is an issue. It's hard to see where you've got everything from the pics; but, are you able to put as much as you can back to stock? (vac-wise)
 

IBoughtASupra

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CajunKenny;1577466 said:
Like Mike suggested, I would change out the AFM before I swapped injectors. It's easier! :)

No offense; but, your car looks like a vac nightmare! I think vac routing is an issue. It's hard to see where you've got everything from the pics; but, are you able to put as much as you can back to stock? (vac-wise)

I am not sure it is a vaccum nightmare. I am getting 21 vaccum. There are only five main ports for vaccum, front of intake behind the alternator, rear of intake, two ports on the throttle body and brake booster. I am not using power steering, so there are no lines that go to it. It is capped of behind the alternator. No EGR either, JDM ECU and you can see the two ports on the throttle body and rear of intake are being used. Would that be a problem?

I will check out the AFM today. I have one left that I did not try. Hey Kenny, if they were GE injectors in there wouldn't that be a problem because of less fuel and high impedance. I am going to change the AFM out and if it does not help, then injectors.

Tomorrow I should have the time, Summer class with a lot of homework. :nono:
 
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