7mge-T
- Thread starter osiderida06
- Start date
Well, i want to know that if you go NA-T with NA electronics, what are they? Same old MAF? Distributor with plug wires? Wat about injectors? Did you guys rebuild before that or just added on all those stuff?
akito said:
You can literally simply add the turbo, manifold, and intercooler to it and it will run.
Will it be fast? Yes
Will it be cheap? Yes
Will it be reliable? No
Will it last long? No
Ma70.Ent said:
This is a known fact that MANY have proven. Ask yankiwi.
Do you have any proof AGAINST my statement?
http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=31752&highlight=cressida
This guy did exactly as William is talking about.. Pics are gone but the point is it works. Just as he said. He isn't even running an intercooler tho.
This guy did exactly as William is talking about.. Pics are gone but the point is it works. Just as he said. He isn't even running an intercooler tho.
well my plan for the first upgrade after i get the turbo on is a little air and fuel upgrade. Ill be getting the lexus afm with some 680cc injectors. I was going to get the 550's but the place on here where im going to get them from only have 580's and 680's flow tested. So i might as well get the 680 since there the same price. Engine internal upgrades will come later in a couple of months or so when i get my either my 57 trim upgrade or a t4. How much boost will i be able to push with the ge electronics still installed? about how much hp? And will this be any different if i switch to the gte electronics? What are the advantages of having gte electronics over NA?
GE electronics have no fuel or ignition maps for boost.....so either upgrade to GTE electronics or standalone while your at it or dont turbo it at all
osiderida06 said:
On the stock headgasket, with stock NA electronics, on a stock turbo, i wouldnt suggest going over 7-8 psi. IMO its DEFINATLY worth it to upgrade the electronics, it doesn't cost to much more, and youll be mega pissed with you put a whole in your piston. Also, the headgaskets not hard either. And wont cost to much.osiderida06 said:
DEFINATLY look into getting a wideband and SAFC to tune. If your really set on staying with the NA electronics, look at the MAF-T pro for NA electronics.
Ma70.Ent said:
well i ran n/a electronics on my car for 4 days. I put 300 miles on that setup.
would i ever tell someone to run it? no, if they had the option of turbo electronics.
the problem with the n/a setup is the a/f's and timing once you hit 3rd gear.1st and 2nd are fine(11.8-12.6:1 on stock boost) but 3rd is just crazy lean. 4th is ok(12.4-13.1), 5th i never paid attention to do to the fact the car started to over heat and oil pressue was slowly dropping due to the heat.
now in 2nd gear @ 75% throttle i broke the tires free non-stop, and then it pulled like a bitch. the car is a lot less powerful on turbo electronics but is more reliable and more fun to drive.i have put almost 1500 miles on the car since turboing it.
-shane
Well, I will throw in my opinion....:blah:
I have been through each main "phase" of NA development, and my vote is for full GTE electronics.
My 1/2 NA-T was too much work to tune. Just like need new tires said. AFR's were all over the place, that flapper AFM sucks. It pulled OK but driveability was never good enough for me.
I changed to turbo electronics and the first time I started it, it ran just like toyota meant it to. Smooth idle, clean powerband, tuneable AFR curve.
For the cost of turbo electronics, why mess with a system not designed for boost? If you are staying NA, do what Will suggested and try the MAFT-Pro. You could get rid of the main troublemaker (AFM), and have tuneability. But IMHO with any piggyback you should do the least amount of "piggybacking" required to get your tune, and if you start with turbo electronics you are closer to a good tune right away, just from the better fuel/timing maps in the turbo ECU.
Slapping a turbo on and going will work, and it's fun. But you WILL want more boost:naughty: and then you WILL crank it up on a shitty tune and grenade your 7M, at least that's what I did:biglaugh:
I have been through each main "phase" of NA development, and my vote is for full GTE electronics.
My 1/2 NA-T was too much work to tune. Just like need new tires said. AFR's were all over the place, that flapper AFM sucks. It pulled OK but driveability was never good enough for me.
I changed to turbo electronics and the first time I started it, it ran just like toyota meant it to. Smooth idle, clean powerband, tuneable AFR curve.
For the cost of turbo electronics, why mess with a system not designed for boost? If you are staying NA, do what Will suggested and try the MAFT-Pro. You could get rid of the main troublemaker (AFM), and have tuneability. But IMHO with any piggyback you should do the least amount of "piggybacking" required to get your tune, and if you start with turbo electronics you are closer to a good tune right away, just from the better fuel/timing maps in the turbo ECU.
Slapping a turbo on and going will work, and it's fun. But you WILL want more boost:naughty: and then you WILL crank it up on a shitty tune and grenade your 7M, at least that's what I did:biglaugh:
Fuzz420
Are U Here 2 take My Baby
Burntz said:I like this thread
Me too, it made me go order more parts so i can can get my car na-t'd
Well i see everyone posting up fs items to convert to gte electronics. Is there anywhere where i can get this stuff as a whole to save money. Because buying them seperatly just seems to add up way to quick.....and im planing on a getting a mhg and a 57 trim upgrade with 680cc injectors. What do you guys mean getting rid of the afm? what do you use in its place? any other basic information would be grealty appreciated...And yes this is defiently becoming an excelent resource...thanks guys
osiderida06 said:
You can usually peice everything (electronics) together for around 500 or so dollars.
When we say "getting rid of the AFM" we mean that "maft pro" allows you to run Speed density. This actually deletes your AFM and allows you to run a filter almost directly on your turbo if you choose.
440cc injectors and a good working CT-26 will provide PLENTLY of power....
Aside from less tinkering I'd take the MAFT Pro over the GTE electrical swap any day. Timing control (remember that the GTE ECU's timing map is still not intended for the higher compression GE, get something you can adjust it with), boost control, fuel tuning and you can go with either an inexpensive GM MAF OR speed/density (this eliminates the need for a MAF).
For $500, I'd rather have all new parts too.
For $500, I'd rather have all new parts too.