7M build advise please

Dan_Gyoba

Turbo Swapper
Aug 9, 2007
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Okay, shop says that no bore was needed on the block, so no bore it is, which pretty much rules out forged pistons, it seems. (Apparently I screwed up my measurements.)

Crank came back as having been cut before, and was what the shop considers to be on the bare margin of okay, but they do say it should be fine.

Mains are .020 (.5mm) under, and the throws are .030 (.75mm) under. Shop says they're fine. Talked to Aaron at Driftmotion about bearings for this, and he says that he'd bin the crank and find another. Thoughts and opinions? (I've never been one to take just one person's word on anything, so I figured that it doesn't hurt to ask. Of course I'm not eager to spend time and money on another crank if this one would be okay, but I do want to know that this will handle 400+ HP without having to open it up and replace the crank this winter.)

So the current plan for pistons is to clean up the ones that came out, pop out the wrist pins and inspect for re-use with new rings. I guess that makes the internals all stock, but for my power goals, this shouldn't be the limitation. (Would have taken that standard set of Probes, but already sold. :( ) Well, until I'm ordering bearings I'll keep my options open. The Wiseco pistons are still a possibility.

Looks like no possibility of getting this on the road by month's end. :( Hopefully I'll get some seat time this summer.
 

IJ.

Grumpy Old Man
Mar 30, 2005
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Toyota Induction hardens their cranks and it's a shallow process, 10 under is about the limit before you get to the silly putty core Dan.

Personally if you're in this far it makes sense to bore it and fit a set of Forged pistons just for the extra overhead they provide and that you'll have 6x Square to the deck straight round holes.
 

Dan_Gyoba

Turbo Swapper
Aug 9, 2007
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Still looking for a crank that isn't junk. Bleah.

Told machine shop to go with a bore. Ordered the Arias 83.5mm pistons, which they'll wait for to get the bore *just so* since I'm looking for a good crank...

So far...

Block decked, line bored, and will have .020 overbore.

Head decked, 5 angle valve job. Still need to source shims. (And had to stop myself from buying BC stage 2 cams...)

Crank will be whatever I find. Not picky about 6M/7M but will probably go in for a polish, and depending, a balance.

Rods are stock, but shot-peened.

Pistons will be Arias 83.5mm

New oil pump, water pump, timing belt pulley, timing belt, thermostat

eBay silicone hose kit, Titan 1.4mm MHG, ARP head studs, ARP main studs, Driftmotion oil pump line.

Also to be installed is a full-flow oil cooler with thermostatic bypass, and an oil filter relocation kit. My thoughts are that the relocation kit will bolt to the block, and then the cooler's adapter can go on the remote filter location, sort of daisy-chain style. Oil (cold) then goes from the block to the filter, then back to the block. Hot goes from block to filter, then to the cooler, then to the filter return, and finally back to the block. Seems long, but it's actually shorter than putting both adapters at the block location.

Pretty much at this point, if it moves and I can't get to it easily, I'm replacing it, with the possible exception of the oil pump drive shaft, and that's only because the machine shop says that it is perfect.
 

Dan_Gyoba

Turbo Swapper
Aug 9, 2007
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@SWD: It's being considered, but since it's (relatively) easy to change after, it can wait.

@Numba1: Nice and all, but I can't imagine even being able to ship that here for the kind of budget that I want to spend, unless it'll polish up at full standard sized journals, in which case I might be willing to spend the money, but in the meantime, I'll keep looking locally.
 

Numba1Stuna

New Member
Apr 18, 2012
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Nampa, ID
Yeah, it's actually polished already and still had the stock bearing size. If interested give me your zip and I'll check prices tomorrow. I have to anyway as I just sold a turbo to osiris.

Sent from my LG-P999 using Tapatalk 2
 

Numba1Stuna

New Member
Apr 18, 2012
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Nampa, ID
Here are the pics of that crankshaft. Like I said in the pm, they were machined, then used lightly before being taken out. Shouldn't need machined again. If interested just let me know and we will get it done.

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Dan_Gyoba

Turbo Swapper
Aug 9, 2007
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Alberta
www.gyoba.com
Well, I found a better crank. It's cut 0.25mm (0.010") on the mains and throws, but is in otherwise excellent shape. I'd really hoped to have everything assembled by now, but... C'est la vie.

Ordering the bearings from Aaron at Driftmotion, who says that they'll take a couple of weeks to get in. (Well it's been a week since I ordered them, so another week, I guess.) While I was at it, I ordered SS brake lines, which I've been meaning to do for a while. (And there goes MORE money I hadn't budgeted.)

The machine shop insists that the journals on the first crank are fine, After all, it was cut before they got it, and was pulled from a running engine that way (Along with the shot-peened rods and a set of forged JE pistons). They've also found bearings for it. I intend to use that crank and those bearings on the engine that's currently in the car, or provide them to whomever wants it, if I can sell it off. I'm giving serious consideration to the prospect of building that engine up so that it's ready to drop into something.

I have some extra shims, hopefully I have the assortment that I'll need to get everything done. Never done this before, so it's uncharted territory for me. Picked up a precision micrometer for measuring them, too. Still need to get the feeler gauge, but it'll be a bit before I really need that.
 

Dan_Gyoba

Turbo Swapper
Aug 9, 2007
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Alberta
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I have things on the stand. Installed the oil squirters, knock sensors, and the 7M-GE oil filter union bolt on the block.

I was looking at the oil pump. I have one of the DM braided lines from the pump to the block, but it seems that I'm missing one of the adapters, and the other seems to be the wrong thread, since it fits in neither the block nor the pump.

In the pump, it's loose. In the block, it appears to be the correct diameter, but the wrong thread. If I line it up with the fitting from the line/pump that I pulled out, the thread pitch is different.

Anyone know what threads I should be looking for?