Looks like they've relocated the offending rivet on that gasket Dan, it was at the front opposite the oil drain behind the waterpump.
7M build advise please
- Thread starter Dan_Gyoba
- Start date
Gah. Was looking at it backwards, that's where it is, but it looks to be far enough out from the mating surface. I guess I'll see.
Just to re-cap:
First of all, thanks to those who provided helpful advise and information, notably IJ and suprarx7nut, though not limited to them.
Project started as a "simple" swap-out, with necessary machining only to pretty much a full-on build. Well, that's how it is, and there's my hobby budget for the year.
I didn't get an answer about useful support electronics. As it sits, I'm using the original ECU with the Lexus/550 modification, and that's it. I know this doesn't leave me much for tuning options other than the adjustment screw in the AFM and base fuel pressure with the AFPR. I like the ability to adjust stuff, and it would be nice to be able to go MAP. I'd consider the MAF-T Pro, though it probably won't be this year. Anyone have opinions on this, or anything else which would be good?
Anyway, I will be starting a build thread when I start the tear-down.
First of all, thanks to those who provided helpful advise and information, notably IJ and suprarx7nut, though not limited to them.
Project started as a "simple" swap-out, with necessary machining only to pretty much a full-on build. Well, that's how it is, and there's my hobby budget for the year.
I didn't get an answer about useful support electronics. As it sits, I'm using the original ECU with the Lexus/550 modification, and that's it. I know this doesn't leave me much for tuning options other than the adjustment screw in the AFM and base fuel pressure with the AFPR. I like the ability to adjust stuff, and it would be nice to be able to go MAP. I'd consider the MAF-T Pro, though it probably won't be this year. Anyone have opinions on this, or anything else which would be good?
Anyway, I will be starting a build thread when I start the tear-down.
im going safc, ive heard the maft-pro was better but more expensive. i picked mine up for 175 used off another member. it will work fine if your just going for the lexi/550's mod, with the AFPR. thats what im doing, on and a bottom end rebuild of course 
ill be sure to start a build thread with lots of pics, and ill have many, many questions for 1J since were besties
ill be sure to start a build thread with lots of pics, and ill have many, many questions for 1J since were besties
Dan_Gyoba;1827921 said:
Happy to try and help.
For piggybacks, I've been meaning to really dive in and write-up a good comparison, but I haven't had the time. As a very general statement, MAFT-pro will offer more tuning options and features, but it's rather cryptic. You'll have to do some homework before you even know what the display is telling you. SAFC is cheaper, easier to use, looks more modern, but will not allow you to ditch the AFM and you can't go speed/density like you can with MAFT-pro. I couldn't give you a list of things the MAFT-pro can do that the SAFC can't, but I'm sure you could come up with a quick checklist.
A couple things MAFT pro can do that make me lean their way:
-Tip in adjustments (I'm not sure in many other piggybacks allow this. Maybe they do, i dont know)
-electronic boost control with GM boost solenoid(I'd be able to ditch my ProfecB and clean up my dash)
-MAP sensor in place of AFM (speed density. This also allows you to run your BOV to atmosphere and impress high-schoolers and questionable women) http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/MAP_sensor
-As I understand, the MAFT pro will also allow a wideband to be used as feedback while tuning. Datalogging in general seems to be much more capable with the MAFT Pro, but that's just a feeling I'm getting while I begin my research.
Well, I'm looking into the MAF-T Pro.
Quick question: Does the front timing cover for the head need to be machined with the head? It looks like it could cause a lip which would be difficult to seal, but I'm not sure. (Well, I suppose that it would be easier to grind that off separately if it does need to be trimmed.)
So far...
Good things found: Newer block casting. Yay. Head checks out for hardness and not out of spec for warpage.
Bad things found: 4 rods are complete junk, 1 questionable, 1... Well, they're all junk, I guess. Looks like it's a good thing that I'm going for a complete replacement set.
#4 main scored. Well, I wasn't planning to re-use that crank as soon as I found the damage to the bearings. Might give it to the machine shop and ask what they can do about it. E3 Cam journal is scratched up pretty bad. E4 looks less than perfect, too, but most of the cam doesn't look horrible. #4 bore is also not quite round, it's about 0.17mm out, so a .5mm overbore is (I think) called for. Basically the rotating assembly has got to be changed.
I know that they're not necessary, but the overbore development has brought up the forged pistons debate in my head again, and having to buy new rods... Well, that, too. For the pistons, there's a clear alternative with the NPR pistons, which I understand to be equivalent to stock, and good enough for the power levels that I'm aiming for. For rods though, new stock ones are a dealer item, and for aftermarket, they're all forged. Dealer list new is more than the Eagle rods from Driftmotion, so it's either those, or buy used ones. I guess it comes down to if I want to trust the used ones. I suppose that if they come from a person who knows what would be good... If I'm going to buy new ones, and buy forged, I'll probably buy the forged pistons, too. No, not necessary, but I can't see any way that it would hurt, either.
Quick question: Does the front timing cover for the head need to be machined with the head? It looks like it could cause a lip which would be difficult to seal, but I'm not sure. (Well, I suppose that it would be easier to grind that off separately if it does need to be trimmed.)
So far...
Good things found: Newer block casting. Yay. Head checks out for hardness and not out of spec for warpage.
Bad things found: 4 rods are complete junk, 1 questionable, 1... Well, they're all junk, I guess. Looks like it's a good thing that I'm going for a complete replacement set.
#4 main scored. Well, I wasn't planning to re-use that crank as soon as I found the damage to the bearings. Might give it to the machine shop and ask what they can do about it. E3 Cam journal is scratched up pretty bad. E4 looks less than perfect, too, but most of the cam doesn't look horrible. #4 bore is also not quite round, it's about 0.17mm out, so a .5mm overbore is (I think) called for. Basically the rotating assembly has got to be changed.
I know that they're not necessary, but the overbore development has brought up the forged pistons debate in my head again, and having to buy new rods... Well, that, too. For the pistons, there's a clear alternative with the NPR pistons, which I understand to be equivalent to stock, and good enough for the power levels that I'm aiming for. For rods though, new stock ones are a dealer item, and for aftermarket, they're all forged. Dealer list new is more than the Eagle rods from Driftmotion, so it's either those, or buy used ones. I guess it comes down to if I want to trust the used ones. I suppose that if they come from a person who knows what would be good... If I'm going to buy new ones, and buy forged, I'll probably buy the forged pistons, too. No, not necessary, but I can't see any way that it would hurt, either.
If you've gotta buy new pistons, it might make sense to just go forged. Using the old ones is fine for most stock-ish power levels, but if yours need replacement, forged may be the way to go. Overkill, maybe, but a good way to reassure yourself.
No point in spending the $$ for relatively over-priced OEM parts if superior aftermarket parts are available.
No point in spending the $$ for relatively over-priced OEM parts if superior aftermarket parts are available.
@AJ'S 88NA: Yes, I know about the one on the block, it's the one behind the cam gears on the head that I wasn't sure about.
@IJ: Thanks, I think I would have missed that. I'm going to change the timing belt tensioner anyway, but the old one should do as a placeholder for the machining process, right?
@Suprarx7nut: This is what I was thinking. Since I'll be going for an overbore, and have to buy new ones anyway. NPRs are $120, and the Probes are $440. The next step would be the $680 Arias. One of the key questions though is rods, since I can't re-use the ones that I have.
Well, tomorrow, going to have a conversation with Aaron at Driftmotion about oil filter relocation and oil cooler stuff. I know he's got a vested interest in me buying stuff from him, but I'll ask about pistons and rods. one thing about the Probes that kind of bugs me is that the pics don't show them as dished though they do have reliefs for the valves. So long as they will result in close to the correct compression ratio it should be fine though.
@IJ: Thanks, I think I would have missed that. I'm going to change the timing belt tensioner anyway, but the old one should do as a placeholder for the machining process, right?
@Suprarx7nut: This is what I was thinking. Since I'll be going for an overbore, and have to buy new ones anyway. NPRs are $120, and the Probes are $440. The next step would be the $680 Arias. One of the key questions though is rods, since I can't re-use the ones that I have.
Well, tomorrow, going to have a conversation with Aaron at Driftmotion about oil filter relocation and oil cooler stuff. I know he's got a vested interest in me buying stuff from him, but I'll ask about pistons and rods. one thing about the Probes that kind of bugs me is that the pics don't show them as dished though they do have reliefs for the valves. So long as they will result in close to the correct compression ratio it should be fine though.
suprarx7nut;1827979 said:Happy to try and help.
For piggybacks, I've been meaning to really dive in and write-up a good comparison, but I haven't had the time. As a very general statement, MAFT-pro will offer more tuning options and features, but it's rather cryptic. You'll have to do some homework before you even know what the display is telling you. SAFC is cheaper, easier to use, looks more modern, but will not allow you to ditch the AFM and you can't go speed/density like you can with MAFT-pro. I couldn't give you a list of things the MAFT-pro can do that the SAFC can't, but I'm sure you could come up with a quick checklist.
A couple things MAFT pro can do that make me lean their way:
-Tip in adjustments (I'm not sure in many other piggybacks allow this. Maybe they do, i dont know)
-electronic boost control with GM boost solenoid(I'd be able to ditch my ProfecB and clean up my dash)
-MAP sensor in place of AFM (speed density. This also allows you to run your BOV to atmosphere and impress high-schoolers and questionable women) http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/MAP_sensor
-As I understand, the MAFT pro will also allow a wideband to be used as feedback while tuning. Datalogging in general seems to be much more capable with the MAFT Pro, but that's just a feeling I'm getting while I begin my research.
To Add:
maft pro also does timing control...idk how good it is but the kit i purchased came with a timing control cable
also maft pro your able to plug a laptop into it and tune using laptop using TunerPro software(IIRC)
Dan_Gyoba;1836137 said:
Probe's website shows dished pistons and the ones I ordered were dished. The picture on Driftmotion's website must just be a general picture. I'm wondering how much longer Aaron will be carrying Probes, sounds like they have had a lot of problems with getting product in on time recently. I'd order them soon if you are wanting them.
http://www.probeindustries.com/Toyota_7MGTE_3_0L_18_5cc_Reverse_Dome_SRS_Pistons_p/14490.htm
i was going to order some probes over the weekend from driftmotion...but now theyre on back order
Well, had my conversation with Aaron. The Probes are indeed backordered, so the next choice would be the Arias, but at $680, this is starting to tip the money scales further than I wanted. I'm already way over initial budget (Gee, I wonder why...)
@AJ: If "Made in the USA" were a big selling point to me, I'd probably be driving Mustang instead of a Supra. Just sayin'.
I'll leave any kind of piggyback off the table for now, and concentrate on getting the motor ready.
I've got the block and head stripped down and (I think) ready for the machine shop.
@AJ: If "Made in the USA" were a big selling point to me, I'd probably be driving Mustang instead of a Supra. Just sayin'.
I'll leave any kind of piggyback off the table for now, and concentrate on getting the motor ready.
I've got the block and head stripped down and (I think) ready for the machine shop.
Dan_Gyoba;1836702 said:
aaron sent me a email yesterday on pistons...
he said they should have more probe pistons next month
i asked about the standard bore set
im suppose to call him today to varify
jonahs_supra;1836758 said:
I've got a brand new standard set of Probes that I'll sell you for 400 shipped. One of my cylinders ended up being slightly too much out of round and I decided to go to .020" over instead. PM me if you're interested.
Well, I want to be driving this car in June, so waiting until then for pistons isn't something that I'm eager to do.
@egesledder: My measurements said that one of my bores is slightly too much out of round as well, but I can ask the machine shop what they think.
@egesledder: My measurements said that one of my bores is slightly too much out of round as well, but I can ask the machine shop what they think.