7m 11's or bust almost 2 years in the making!!!!!

Supra_Villan

needs his car done
Nov 10, 2007
662
0
0
Wellsville MO
thier nests are made of a combination of MUD and thier saliva, nothing else...so my guess would be the broken up particles turned to mud in the oil and just from what i saw in the filter there are small chunks also...i bet that contaminated the oil and pushed the chunks through the bearings. Anyone else?
 

Supra_Villan

needs his car done
Nov 10, 2007
662
0
0
Wellsville MO
really....well the oil i drained from the pan was quite merky...... and thats the only thing i can think of. Any other ideas of what caused this? Or why the oil was merky?
 

Supra_Villan

needs his car done
Nov 10, 2007
662
0
0
Wellsville MO
i honestly couldn't tell you Ian....my builder said he did it by the book...the book being the Chiton's i gave him. But the oil up around the filter housing (relocation kit) looks on the dark side, like black. I guess i won't know until i get it apart eh? :cry::cry::cry::cry::cry::cry::cry:
 

Supra_Villan

needs his car done
Nov 10, 2007
662
0
0
Wellsville MO
the wierd thing is...i ran the car probably a total of 8-10 minutes (stretched out over about 2 days) with no knock. Then bam....knock knock knock
 

IJ.

Grumpy Old Man
Mar 30, 2005
38,728
0
0
62
I come from a land down under
1 tight bearing

start it up the bearing touches the crank and transfers material

each time the crank turns it transfers some more as the crank now has a coating of the same material so there's no coefficient of friction and you get galling.

clearences get bigger as the galled material starts to wash into the Oil system

knock.
 

Supra_Villan

needs his car done
Nov 10, 2007
662
0
0
Wellsville MO
think my crank and rods are trashed? can i just get it apart, check for deep scratches (the fingernail method, correct?) if that checks out a set of standard sized bearings, plastigauge, and a good torque wrench i can do this myself right?
 

IJ.

Grumpy Old Man
Mar 30, 2005
38,728
0
0
62
I come from a land down under
Get it apart first then freak out...

doing_it_wrong_2.jpg
 

teedoff00

14 psi boost
Dec 5, 2007
297
0
16
Selah, WA
I had a faint Rod Knock when I first started my newly rebuilt 7M, it turned out that I forgot the last torque down on one arp rod bolt. But I did pull the whole motor to inspect to see if there was any damage (ran for maybe a minute). Re-torqued all the rods and mains, and it has been great since.

Depending on how bad your knock is, it might just be a torque issue...

Good Luck!
 

Supra_Villan

needs his car done
Nov 10, 2007
662
0
0
Wellsville MO
I got it all torn apart to find some really nasty oil and some ugly bearings. The oil flickered in the sun like wet metallic paint. The crank weights had some heat marks on them you can see that in the pics. The rods and rod journals looked fine with no deep appearing scratches or none that i could feel with my fingernail. The filter i removed was only ran for 2 or so minutes with it knocking and thank god there were no solids hanging out in there unlike the old one. Although i did dump out the filter and after it spilled all the oil inside of itself it was still pretty heavy not sure if thats normal on a wix. I didn't take the main caps off because i was losing daylight and i was curious if there was a way to get to the motor(top) side of the main bearings without removing the flywheel and stuff. Can i get away with not replacing the mains? I'm not sure i figured i would ask the community for there input because i always get some good ideas from you guys. Do you guys think a set of std clevites would suffice as long as i do this by the tsrm with a quality snap on torqe wrench and some plastigauge i have access to a mic also.
And is there any way to get all the old oil out without pulling the motor?
p1384618_1.jpg
p1384618_2.jpg
p1384618_3.jpg
p1384618_4.jpg
p1384618_5.jpg
p1384618_6.jpg
p1384618_7.jpg
p1384618_8.jpg
p1384618_9.jpg
p1384618_10.jpg
p1384618_11.jpg

#1
p1384618_12.jpg

#2
p1384618_13.jpg

#3
p1384618_14.jpg

#4
p1384618_15.jpg

#5
p1384618_16.jpg

#6
p1384618_17.jpg
 
Last edited:

Supra_Villan

needs his car done
Nov 10, 2007
662
0
0
Wellsville MO


Here is a vid of it before the teardown. Excuse the nasty cluttered engine bay i plan to sort that out once i get it running right. Also excuse the shitty running i think my relocated coils have a shitty ground. Tell me what you guys think.
 

northwestsupra

New Member
Sep 19, 2006
1,166
0
0
Washington, Marysville
well you obliviously have metal in the oil :p and some decent in size. #1 is the only one with a different wear pattern then all of them seems to be more spread out and equal on both bottom and top unlike 23456 where the one side of the bearings are getting wear in. not sure what to tell you, i just thought i would point that out. anywho where did you get the hood locks?
 

Supra_Villan

needs his car done
Nov 10, 2007
662
0
0
Wellsville MO
had to drop the subframe and pull the pan. But i put in all new acl bearings and plastigaged them all and they were all consistent and within spec. I mic'd the crank and rod journals just to be sure and they all checked out fine also. No visible or feelable crank or rod damage so its all good now