Guys,
Trying to figure out exactly what's needed to keep the Aristo tranny on the 2JZ-GTE.
Thanks
Mike
Trying to figure out exactly what's needed to keep the Aristo tranny on the 2JZ-GTE.
Thanks
Mike
2JZGTE MKIII Swap Info
- Thread starter eman2289
- Start date
Custom driveshaft: like shaftmasters.com - email them.
Electric to mechanical speedo converter : like the cable-X or grafting in the Aristo/Supra mkIV electronic speedometer
Sort out ABS sensor if you have/want to keep ABS. Can be done with transplanting the pickup wheel from the 7M automatic gearbox to the driveshaft flange on the Aristo transmission and fabricating a bracket for the ABS sensor. They need to be appr 1 mm apart.
Electric to mechanical speedo converter : like the cable-X or grafting in the Aristo/Supra mkIV electronic speedometer
Sort out ABS sensor if you have/want to keep ABS. Can be done with transplanting the pickup wheel from the 7M automatic gearbox to the driveshaft flange on the Aristo transmission and fabricating a bracket for the ABS sensor. They need to be appr 1 mm apart.
Sell/trade the JZS147 tranny for a A34x from a JZZ30 Soarer or JZX81/JZX90 Chaser then use stock driveshaft and ecu...
Are you saying you can run the 2JZ-GTE with a 1JZ-GTE ecu? Or running the A34x with the stock 2JZ-GTE ecu?
Kristian_Wraae;1660799 said:
The Aristo tranny is a A34x series tranny. The problem is it has a tailshaft with a 3 prong yolk (it isn't even compatible with the MKIV Supra hahhaha) ... The Soarer and Chaser use the same series tranny but they have the slip yolk tailshaft just like the 7M/A340 which allows you to use the stock driveshaft, and the port for the speedo cable to drive the speedo gauge.
Worst case, you might have to drop the pans on both trannies and swap out the electronic solenoids... but as far as I know in that generation (non-vvti), the JZS147 ecu should be able to control a Chaser or Soarer tranny with no problems.
No need to make custom driveshafts and have to spend money and wire up extra electronics to make the speedo work when it's just a matter of mixing and matching the right parts from Toyota.
It's when you get into the VVT-i hardware that keeping the auto tranny starts to get a bit tricky (my MK3 is running a JZX100 Chaser tranny and it is controlled by the JZS161 Aristo ECU) ...
... and yes you could control a 2JZ with a 1JZ ecu ... but I don't know anyone that has done it ... :icon_razz
I am 99% finished with the swap and I've come across a few items that no one else has ever mentioned before;
1) When swapping a front sump for a rear sump oil pan, the turbo drain mount piece will not be in the same location. You will need to shorten the rear drain hose and find 7/8" oil line for the front drain to add to as well as bend the piping. I found the 7M crankcase ventilation hose fit perfectly after some cutting and bending.
2) You definitely need to hammer your firewall to help you drop the engine in due to the intake portion of the rear twin. On top of hammering the firewall, you need to drop your ABS lines as low as possible by removing all the mounting tabs.
3) If using the BIC brackets, they are way too thin to use with the stock engine bracket bolts. You'll need to find some 20mm length bolts to use with those brackets. I ended up using the auto flexplate bolts which fit perfectly with washers I had laying around. You also use the rear most bolt holes on both sides. The intake side requires unbolting the fuel pressure dampener and using it's bolts for the bracket.
4) Obvious but never mentioned, you have to extend your alternator wiring due to the 7M being on the driver's side and the 2JZ being on the passenger's side.
5) The Aristo uses some other pump for the brake booster so you need to remove the vacuum fitting from your 7M intake manifold, bend the arm flat to clear the 2JZ manifold and bolt it down. Also, you need to buy some longer vacuum hose as the factory hose is too short to reach the location of the newly mounted fitting.
That's about all I can think of at the moment. I figured it's worth mentioning to those of you who are not expecting it like I did.
1) When swapping a front sump for a rear sump oil pan, the turbo drain mount piece will not be in the same location. You will need to shorten the rear drain hose and find 7/8" oil line for the front drain to add to as well as bend the piping. I found the 7M crankcase ventilation hose fit perfectly after some cutting and bending.
2) You definitely need to hammer your firewall to help you drop the engine in due to the intake portion of the rear twin. On top of hammering the firewall, you need to drop your ABS lines as low as possible by removing all the mounting tabs.
3) If using the BIC brackets, they are way too thin to use with the stock engine bracket bolts. You'll need to find some 20mm length bolts to use with those brackets. I ended up using the auto flexplate bolts which fit perfectly with washers I had laying around. You also use the rear most bolt holes on both sides. The intake side requires unbolting the fuel pressure dampener and using it's bolts for the bracket.
4) Obvious but never mentioned, you have to extend your alternator wiring due to the 7M being on the driver's side and the 2JZ being on the passenger's side.
5) The Aristo uses some other pump for the brake booster so you need to remove the vacuum fitting from your 7M intake manifold, bend the arm flat to clear the 2JZ manifold and bolt it down. Also, you need to buy some longer vacuum hose as the factory hose is too short to reach the location of the newly mounted fitting.
That's about all I can think of at the moment. I figured it's worth mentioning to those of you who are not expecting it like I did.
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I have a question. I have read this post several times and haven't seen any information about my problem. I had a shop do a 2JZ-GTE with a W58 and it seems that the shift handle is so far back that they cut the console and the boot kit won't fit. Is there any way to remedy this with a different shifter? Bye the way the car is a 89 Supra!
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Sounds like they gave you a MKIV W58 which has an extension linkage for the shifter.sttt11;1687195 said:
How many have had issues with the 2JZ-GTE hitting the drivers side bolt for the steering rack?
I have used the Toyota 1JZ brackets with the stock round motor mounts and the engine is hitting the rear bolt that fastens the bracket that holds the steering rack on the drivers side. It has notched the edge of the lower oil pan.
Do you grind down the bolt a bit or what could be wrong? I'm considering solide mounts or a torque damper to over come this. Do you know if the BIC torque damper will work with the 2JZ?
I have used the Toyota 1JZ brackets with the stock round motor mounts and the engine is hitting the rear bolt that fastens the bracket that holds the steering rack on the drivers side. It has notched the edge of the lower oil pan.
Do you grind down the bolt a bit or what could be wrong? I'm considering solide mounts or a torque damper to over come this. Do you know if the BIC torque damper will work with the 2JZ?
Ok one question, would i still need to swap out water pumps on the aristo 2jz if i planned on using electric cooling fans?
is that pump listed in the list on the 1st page for a usdm pump if you don't want to do the hydro fan set up?
also what about clutch dick can i use a 7m clutch disk or whats my options?
also anybody have pics of the how close the fit is with the abs lines and the twins...? thanks
also what about clutch dick can i use a 7m clutch disk or whats my options?
also anybody have pics of the how close the fit is with the abs lines and the twins...? thanks
Yes, use the USDM water pump.dubsupra209;1745590 said:
Use a 7M-GTE clutch disk and pressure plate if you're using a R-154 with a 1JZ flywheel.dubsupra209;1745590 said:
No but you need remove the protective plate and move them down/out of the way to hammer your firewall in about an inch for the rear twin's intake to clear the firewall.dubsupra209;1745590 said:
o ok so i just need 1j flywheel i don't need a 1jz disk and pressure plate?
is there any little thing you might have missed when you were getting your 2j swap done or any more advice..my buddy is going come from socal to help me do the swap so i want to make sure i got everything there
thanks for answering my questions
is there any little thing you might have missed when you were getting your 2j swap done or any more advice..my buddy is going come from socal to help me do the swap so i want to make sure i got everything there
thanks for answering my questions
A 1JZ and 7M-GTE disk and pressure plate are the same thing since the 1JZ came with a R154 for a manual. Only difference is the bellhousing.dubsupra209;1746182 said:
For non-mentioned items, look back one page for my post.
i am doing a usdm 2jz-gte with a jdm supra harness with aem.. does anyone have the diagrams for the jdm SUPRA harness? i need one asaapp
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