Try to keep a shortish hose run so you're not pumping 3qt's of stone cold oil into a hot engine 
1300 Kg Track SUPRA project
- Thread starter josbeat
- Start date
destrux;1894558 said:
yes it is for the A80
they are long , if the steering wheel is perfect in the midle.... no problem , for the rest is the same
hevier than stock
use the toyota nut instead te Megan one, it have more holes for the security pin
I like it because for a lowered car it solve the problem with the steering and it is possible to adjust it to suit different heigths
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IJ.;1894529 said:Try to keep a shortish hose run so you're not pumping 3qt's of stone cold oil into a hot engine
Ij I been reading all your replyes about the Accusump in all threads here in Supramania but I havent found any photo of your engine bay to see the space yur found to put it in .
I will check if we have sapce between the back of the oil pan and the gearbox , there are an space but not sure if it is suficient, I will check it tomorrow I have the car up in the ramp
I found all con rods and crank shaft bearings bad and the oil darky,the cylinders walls looks good but I need to see the camshaft journeys if they have damages aswell, the crank looks good with out marks ,i am using Castrol 10w60 and allways I little more oil ( 5 ltr ) I am thinking that the high oil pressure I got with the last mods (4,5 bar ) and in conjuntion with a long bend at the track and arround 4000 revs left the oil pan empty, thats was happent...I think because i been in other tracks with out engine problems and also other car (Moded EVO) broke a con rod on the straight just before it hapens to me (thanks God!)
really I prefer the dry sump system but calculate the correct pum, oil litrs , space for the bottle and and the possition of the pump make it complicated but not imposible...
the idea with the dry system is to use the stock pump and an scavenger pump only, to remove the oil from the modded oil pan, to send the oil into a bottle and a pipe back to the oil pan with an a bulkhead send it back to the enter of the stock pump ( with out the cup ) the rest like normal , remote oil filter with cooler like I have now.
minimum that desing will send the correct amount of oil and pressure , now we will need to know how many stages we need of the scavenge pump (vacum pump) 1, 2, 3, 4, 5 ,6 ?? how we will know it with out test it?? because they are not sheap but the good think is that it will give me almost 20 hp more
the stock pump with out the cup let to cut the oil pan close to the crank which let me lowering the engine or maybe to close up the front crossmember to the chassis (good for the suspension geometry) but .... time , I need time.
i would like to have a dry system but if I found space to fit the accusump.... it will win
minimum that desing will send the correct amount of oil and pressure , now we will need to know how many stages we need of the scavenge pump (vacum pump) 1, 2, 3, 4, 5 ,6 ?? how we will know it with out test it?? because they are not sheap but the good think is that it will give me almost 20 hp more
the stock pump with out the cup let to cut the oil pan close to the crank which let me lowering the engine or maybe to close up the front crossmember to the chassis (good for the suspension geometry) but .... time , I need time.
i would like to have a dry system but if I found space to fit the accusump.... it will win
I am also getting ready to add an accumilator. Was wondering for those who use one, do you use a preasure valve or just a manual open close valve?
Used a Solenoid for awhile then decided it was more hassle then it was worth and went valveless.
I use an electric solenoid so that I can activate and discharge the unit prior to engine start up. Also, with the same switch, I can deactivate the unit prior to engine shutdown in order to preserve the oil pressure presently in the system for subsequent start up discharge.
BlackDevilSupra;1895288 said:
but it will be the same if you connect it to the IGN power wire not?
sorry but finally I will go with DRY SUMP SYSTEM
I found the correct oil reservoir bottle which will fit into the engine bay and I am dealing with a guy to buy a new 4 stage pump (at half of the price), lookoing how I will desing the oil pan and the pipes will be very short because the pump will be fitted where the steering pump must be (I have an electric pump instead) and the oil bottle where the air filter is now , the filter will be moved to ... dont know at the moment but not will be a big problem.
I would think with a switch you could rev the engine to build pressure then close the valve. This way I would have 40 ish psi for pre lube rather than 15 ish
destrux;1894558 said:
one photo for you Destrux
see it well, the nut is moved , the spacers moved to the top and just only left three threads free for adjusment
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