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I'll pull apart the head today and post some pics of the gasket -- If an engine company shipped me this engine a couple of months ago would they be at all responsible for a BHG? They are in canada so they have to follow the stricter sales rules.

K, didn't get a chance to pressure test but am I am pretty sure that my ~50,000 mile engine came with a BHG. If I take the head off what are the chances I can drop a new stock hg on and be fine? Since the leak seems to happen once the car has been driving around for a while would it suggest...

I didn't test it at higher operating temperatures (which could be when the leak shows itself). (my thermostat is temporarily out so I couldn't get much hotter @ idle) I see what compression test results I get today and post 'em.

I'm gonna compression test tomorrow. What I'm hoping is that all the rusty crap that was in this engine has blocked the radiator or something similar. If it's a bhg I may have to blow up the car. :nono:

I have symptoms of a BHG but got no detection with a block tester. I tested for about 15 mins from start-up until @ regular idle temp. Are there any other accurate ways to test for a BHG?

I'll check all my sensor wires today -- I have solid motor mounts so maybe the vibrations are shaking the wires. Still trying to figure out my battery problemo though -- after about 1 hour after I turn the car off it brings the battery down from 12V to 9V. When I disconnect the (-) terminal...

If the dome fuse is blown could it cause the battery to drain overnight? I know the dome fuse is hooked in w/ the factory alarm system (http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=26484) so I thought that it might be the culprit. Sound sane? Thanks.

No engine light + no codes.

I thought about that and checked for leaks on the IC piping -- everything is nice and tight.

Hey all, My '89 turbo backfires (fast popping) when I floor it in 3rd/4th. It also backfires when I get off the pedal without slowly letting it out. If I let it sit and idle it will drop down to near death every few minutes and then spring back to life and idle fine. Everything is stock...

Thanks for the replies. :icon_bigg I'll do some testing overnight.

I removed the switch + button start. Know of any time-savers when looking for the short? =]

So I've had this car for a couple years now. When I bought it, it came with a switch to toggle power and a push button start. I just finished my GTE swap and I now realize that the switch was installed because the battery drains when the car is off. All the switch did was to break the connection...

Anyone know where to get an aftermarket automatic shift knob that will fit round the oval shifter? Edit: That preferably has a button that can be wired for O/D.

Err guess I'm a little slow ::dunce:: Thought the pressure would heat the air and the coolant currently in the passages. The coolant was not flowing so I figured the hot coolant wouldn't be helping much inside the block.

And for the record :icon_bigg I knew coolant was going to spray out the cap but decided that I might save my engine by relieving the pressure so it could cool down quicker.

Think it's possible I have the same problem as the post below this one (http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=59108) ? Maybe by hooking my heater up properly I somehow created a massive air bubble (from air that had been trapped in the lines behind the dash). The engine really...

Hey all, My car just redlined the temperature gauge for the first time. It has never gone past 1/2 way before. I popped the radiator and had about 2 gallons on coolant spray about 6ft upwards and then all over my engine. =] All I did prior to it overheating: - Removed charcoal...

Checked all those already heh. I replaced the battery and tightened everything down. Alt. belt is as tight as it should be. Stumped. :runaway:

Thanks for the replies. So assuming the alternator is good and works fine with the GTE, where should I start looking for this mysterious electrical leak?