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Thought I'd follow up and post my last year/yesterday's emissions numbers. HC is down to 160s, CO %0.84. Problem was definitely distributor. Just thought I would post the absolute cause of my emissions, for future records with anyone searching, and potentially the same "repair/upgrade."

Did you check the ground I mentioned from the back of the igniter? Should be absolutely clean. I believe the wire color is white/red. Also, this is going to sound ridiculous, but are you sure the high tension is plugged into the middle of the cap correctly? Should snap in just like they do onto...

Am I correct in assuming that it would seem like a big cycle of events causing both to be high? Air coming in, distributor causing poor ignition (just changed today and car is purring like a kitten), O2 sensor picks up excess oxygen and compensates with more fuel, round and round we go...

Alright, so now that I've sat and thought about a lot of the problems I've had with my car over the years...I've realized one very fatal flaw with my ignition system. During the first year of driving this thing, the distributor shaft ended up shearing in half on a date I had, out of the blue...

Had a fun time with this job a couple years ago. You can barely fit any wrenches up there! Book says to pull EFI fuse to kill fuel pump, start car up and run until it dies, then turn engine over again to "be sure". Also remember to pull the gas cap to kill pressure in the tank. Don't put it...

Cat should be great, it was replaced about a month before getting the car. I drove it nice and easy the first year after swapping head gasket, but jumped up to 1.37 CO the very next year.

Wow, that's out there man. Try checking the ground wire running from the coil onto the fender. Make sure the body contact doesn't have any rust or paint on it, and that your terminal isn't corroded on the bottom. I took some sandpaper to both contact points, as well as Crisp's ground mod...

Hey there folks, If you don't want the entire rundown, even though I feel it all important information, jump down to the last paragraph. So my time for emissions is coming close, and I'm tired of cheating my way through by leaning out at the AFM before testing in HOPES that I cranked it...

Yeah, any information would really be helpful. Now I've started having a problem with a super high idle, about 1100 rpm. Can't seem to get it steady...going to be looking into valves this weekend, need to change out stem seals, and there's quite a bit of tapping going on anyway. Might as well...

So I just had a bout with my '87 this weekend changing the timing belt, which was totally shredded and ready to go on me. The reason I checked her in the first place was due to some surging I was having at idle, up and down around 600-700, after getting fed up with setting the TPS and constantly...

Fellow Tucsonan...probably seen you around town!

Hi guys, I'm having a hard time with emissions again (posted for problems last year as well)...time really seems to fly by! This time I'm not having high CO readings AT ALL, limit is %1.20, I'm coming out at %0.55. Hydrocarbons are soaring in the mid-high range though...loaded is coming up...

Alright, well, I'm gonna work on that ignition now. Thanks for all the help jdub, guess you're just as bored as I am to be sittin' here all afternoon! ;)

Before yesterday, it's been months. Still doesn't solve my rich mixture, however...

Yesterday, hahah. The reason I ask is because when I took the engine apart to change the head gasket, I cut that hose in two....not to mention it being kinked anyway (cheap heater hose). Would that be of any importance as to what's going on, or just two completely unrelated things?

Yessir. Now, one question I DO have....what is the importance of this big hose running from valve cover no. 2 down to the crank case?

Already pulled the whole thing apart and cleaned it up when I changed the plugs. I actually had to get new hoses for the PCV pipe, the ones that were on it were silicone, melted on like ROCKS! :P I'm kinda leaning towards this being spark problem, there's no WAY I'm getting enough spark to...

Hmmm, like I said, won't idle correctly after full warm up, but seems to be fine when first started. Could definitely be the lowers of the ISC valve. If it makes any difference, it does take a few seconds after shutting down to tick.

Yep, 10 deg BTDC. I do have a HyFire IVa ignition box (not installed on the car)....might that help my spark strength in any way? I'll go take a look at the ISC valve.

I do hear a click coming from it. Sorry, got ahead of myself on that one. The dash reads dead center on the temperature. The coolant temp sensor on the outlet housing is giving me an accurate resistance level, thus the .347 k ohms...