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when you guys open up the ECU to check the caps, re-solder ALL of the connections on the board too. They crack, especially around the connector, which is why the caps usually blow in the first place.

Start here: http://web.archive.org/web/20070516062505/www.1jz-gte.us/92Supra6.html

What are you planning to running it on? Stock everything? I wouldn't without some sort of piggyback atleast. As long as the scale on the GM sensor is sloped the right way (which I believe it is), it will be read just fine. Or you can just plug in a Denso 3bar if you can find it ;)

you can break the top of the IRIDIUM plugs, yes. However, the gap on these when you buy them is rediculously huge for a boosted motor. First thing I would to is either try to gap them (I used to do it all the time), or get some coppers, and gap them .28". I can almost guarantee your problems...

I'm tempted to get a TIAL, and put that on too. I'm not a big fan of the Bosch valves. I've had too many reliability issues on my father's car with them, even with the metal reinforced diaphraghm ones. Plus, the lower grade ones tended to push open when running 20psi on them.

there's nothing preventative you really need to do to a 1JZ. It's a pretty reliable motor stock. Aside from regular fluid changes as in any other vehicle, it just keeps on motoring.

I opened up the back half of the BOV, and I took the spring completely out. The BOV will still function without it, as there are two other methods for closing it. It's quite funny now, it stays open for a LONG time when you're idling...

I had a brand new, HKS SSQV (the new style) on my car ever since I singled the 1JZ, and ever since I had it, it surged like mad when I let off the gas. It ended up killing two turbochargers in short order. I tried various placements on my intake piping, from right beside the turbo, to right...

That would be the HKS 1JZ mounting kit I got from HKS Japan a while back.

Boost leaks FTL!

I DD my GT40-88 1.5JZ. It's not the best on gas, but it puts a smile on my face every time I get behind the wheel.

I have no idea. I figured your machine shop would be smart enough to look it up :) When I got my 1JZ flywheel machined, I took it to the machine shop, told them it has the same specs as a 7M-GTE. A few hours later, I went back, and picked up a freshly machined (and properly stepped) flywheel...

yes. I have one with my 1JZ, and one with my 2JZ :)

yes, the torque specs are the same. Remember, all the bearings are the same between the motors, and the rods are physically the same too, aside from their length.

Actually, they did change the rods. It wasn't just for the VVTI, it was a year change thing. I think Toyota was just trying to reduce rotating mass or something. I think the block is slightly thinner too, but don't quote me on that. Not like it's hard to change rods though ;)

you CAN make some nice power with the VVTI though. Just because there are no aftermarket cams, doesn't mean it's a bad motor. Unless you're going full standalone, the stock ECU will control the VVTI quite well, even with a piggyback. Here's an example. A buddy of mine has an IS300, with a VVTI...

IIRC: main caps, torque to 32ft-lbs, then torque 90* con rod bolts, torque to 26 ft-lbs, then torque 90*

I have two of those :)

I would order a set of ARPs for a 2JZ, and use those.

Made zero difference performance wise.