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It is a description of the oxygen sensor reading of the PCM making the catalytic converter work as designed.

http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/default.aspx Is the site not working for everybody?

What are you going to pay him for providing a professional service? I thought so.

It was going down a bit of a rabbit trail, as EGR changes would be A/F by diluting the intake oxygen. The question wasn't actually at you I wanted him to understand how it worked.

If you don't have 34, you do not have "abnormal turbocharger pressure" and the associated fuel cut off. An EGR valve that is stuck open, even just a little, will cause the idle to be rough. If you pull it open at idle it can cause a stall. A leak to atmosphere through a gasket will make that 71...

That damn entropy strikes again.

If you are lucky, you have a cold enrichment problem. If you are unlucky, you have a compression problem.

No. Not possible. The airflow signal is not reaching the PCM. First, don't assume anything. Only three things can cause the problem, as only 3 things are involved. The wiring, the airflow meter, or the PCM and bad PCM is very rare. Despite the nonsense you read here often.

He is not running lean with 550s and the 7M housing. The opposite in fact. He could be lean, but not because of that set up.

14.7 makes the catalyst work its best. Nothing more.

In all seriousness, the CPS is inside the distributor.

Your arm will not fit in the housing. I am not sure what you mean.

Not with the DTC 12 you don't. Or, you don't actually have 12.

Silly kids...

Yes, oil can be too cold and especially too thick. If that is how engineers wanted oil, it would have been designed that way. A cooler that large is for cars that over heat oil on a track. You would need a thermostat just to keep it close.

http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?Section=FI&P=125

That first bearing looks like classic oil starvation. The crank was touching the bearing. Vancouver is pretty cold in the winter?

With the front tires off the ground, spin the tires with your meter on the sensor. More speed is more Hz. Ideally you want to scope it but I figure you don't have one. This assumes the gap is correct. If you get what you are supposed to get, then recheck at the module which will isolate harness...

Probably for a good reason. This is what the adjustment screw looks like from the factory. Unless you buy from a supplier like Suprasport.

That kind of narrows it down don't you think? The whirring noise like reverse is because the clearance is too far, much like a differential. Reverse does it because the gear is cut different.