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Personally, I would not use stainless...too much risk of abrasion damage to the routed areas and it conducts electricity (great way to create a short). Summit sells AN push lock hose...much easier to attach fittings and can easily handle oil heat/pressure...Aeroquip push lock hose if excellent...

Ummm...if you actually read the oil cooler set-up sticky (as previously suggested) you would already know the answer to what I think is the superior cooler design. It also spells out pretty thoroughly what you will need (including a NA filter stud). Of course you can take whoever's advice you...

Really - care to explain this logic? Pressure drop data across various coolers will do nicely ;)

:wtf: Over. This (without a doubt) is the most worthless post I have read on SM.

I can tell you with 100% certainty that GC is not "thin" at ops temp by any stretch...it's viscosity is higher than just about every other 0W, 5W or 10W-30 on the shelf. I run it in Phoenix AZ...there's not a snowball's chance in hell the summer in Toronto is anywhere near as extreme for the...

Yes and it costs under $10. You would be correct...75W or 80W-90, GL-4 or GL-5 will work fine. For a Torsen LSD, I would consider Red Line Heavy ShockProof.

Or the uni-joints. If you are getting vibration from a one piece DS, it's out of balance or it does not have a damping tube inside (or both). Typically a one piece will have a natural resonance that becomes obvious at 70-80 MPH...they all have some vibration on this car due to length. A well...

Nice ;) Wrong section...thread moved. Save me the work next time and post in the right place.

Not to mention a small matter called "chemistry"...of course all that is pure "theory". Breaking News!!! The world is flat ;)

The most powerful ability is theory + knowledge + experience (common sense)...I'm still being taught. Looks like you are done with all that...pity, a guy your age should have figured it out by now. Learned long ago being closed/single minded is a rather bad thing. Do what you like Mr Toyota...

Exactly! If a guy wants the best, the HKS Stopper is it. But it's not the only one that will work (among others) ;)

1) I don't know what you're smoking, but it must be good. All MHG's have a fire ring around the cylinder, including the Cometic...they are not all copper though (and don't have to be). Also, more layers is not necessarily better, it depends on the design...did you sleep through those classes in...

The Cometic is not "crappy"...it does depend on proper block/head prep like any MHG. 90% of the posts you're referring to are the direct result of improper prep. Copper spray will attack the viton on a MHG...the chemicals in them have a known interaction with viton. Use it if you wish, but...

Put both cams aligned with the index marks on the back plate....the crank damper index should be pointing at "zero". I would confirm the #1 cylinder is at TDC by inserting a small diameter wooden dowel (chopstick) in the #1 spark plug hole...the hight should peak out as the crank is rotated to...

I have an M1A...fully tricked (glass bedded, tuned trigger, etc, etc) with all USGI internals on a Springfield receiver and match grade Winchester barrel. That ammo should not have caused an extraction failure. Did the shells remain in the chamber or did they partially extract/jam against the...

I don't know why one would use it as such when there are products available for that purpose. Just remember what happens when you argue with an idiot ;)

It's interesting the CEO (William Beichner) had a former high level job at Quaker State's Chemical Division - care to guess who makes Slick 50? ;) Any additive that states "it chemically bonds to the metal" is suspect from the get go. There are many chemicals that are attracted to steel at...

The problem is it's impossible to decipher what's actually in it. The site does say that it does not contain any solids (lite PTFE in Slick 50) or and of the chlorinated anti friction products like those used in machine work...both are bad for a motor BTW. Stuff like Bardahl, Rislone and...

Not too sure I'd fill with used oil...never know where that stuffs been ;) I'd change every year, and in your case I would not use Red Line. Way too expensive for the use you get out of it.

Have you checked the center bearing?