If your going 16 psi (or higher) strongly recommend you go with a metal head gasket. It is extremely critical that the block and head are prepped properly or don't waste your money and stay with the OEM headgasket.
my opinion.
Nope, one side on the rad support (flat woth 10 mm bolt and washer I believe) and other side long hook screw with nut on top going through hole on the bar, it has two L brackets to hold the battery which should be sitting on a plastic tray to prevent corrosion.
The one in the photo has a...
Yeah, mine is in the garage and it's not an auto door opener... So for short trips I usually take the truck. I got the coffee, a couple shouts toward me at the lights... And a good 14 psi pull onto the Deerfoot (what passes for our freeway).
Basically an exhilarating 30 min run to remind me...
Can you take a pic of it? The shop that does my car is a HKS dealer, I could see if he has something.
If you want, that is.
Reg has been dealing with HKS a fairly long time :)
Single port still should have one vacuum line run to the actuator, though, I believe. Where are your lines running?
I think what's confusing my is earlier you wrote that you had it set up for an external wastegate (which is a different type of valve). im not an expert though, so I'm not...
How is it controlling boost if it's not affecting the wastegate actuator? Or did I read this wrong. On a stock CT26, you have an internal wastegate with an external actuator (flapper) valve.
There is supposed to be a vacuum line to the wastegate actuator isn't there? Otherwise you would just...
No, they just do it. It won't hurt anything, but it can stall from time to time on deceleration. (Over fuels)
I ran like that until I got tired of the stalling.
I am on stand alone now so the bob vents before its metered
I watched that fully. Makes sense.. but where can I find proper bushings for the LCA's?
I can only find Super Pro front bushings on ebay.
Seems we should have a solution already done up for our cars, but I can't find it... lol. Hate feeling stupid.
The only rear solution (other than ES) that...
You can do it normally, however, when it lets out the air, if it's metered before the BOV (as with the 7m AFM), you will have a rich condition.
If the BOV is placed in an area prior to the air being metered, it won't screw with the AFR. This isn't possible with the AFM and stock ECU.
Coolness :)
I'm going to drill a hole above my rear coilovers and make a tool to be able to turn the top knob to readjust them without having to take apart the interior
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