.68 a/r
depends on the gear:
2nd- 3k & Full boost @ 4200 (23psi)
3rd- 2800 & full boost @ 3900-4000
4rd 2500 & full boost by 3800.
No Cams
I got 4.08 final drive with 19" tires. At 90 I am at 3700rpm.
Most of my driving is hwy.
BTW, that 590rwhp 1jz we were talking about earlier...
I am running 550cc, walbro fuel, Aeromotive FPR. @ 23psi I am at 468. And yes an SAFC2 can tuned 680cc's. It's pushing the envelope, in theory, but it can. Timing was not an issue but it also has to do with location. Perhaps at different altitudes timing becomes an issue where the ecu will...
I personally wont do it for a few reasons, 1- cost of swap and all the fabrication involve 2-The power is easily attainable by a 1j or 2j.
But I don't oppose it.... It has a high "WTF" factor! The rarity of the swap is unheard of. So you got my vote. Shoot I'll drive anywhere just to see it...
Except for the 9 vs 16 points. NEO just looks prettier than the SAFC2. I've used both and now I am back to SAFC2. It's the same thing when it comes to tunning. So if it's just a few bucks more then go with the NEO since it's visually more appealing then the SAFC.
Try the opposite. Don't shift early go on a little boost. I am averaging over 20mpg and I almost always shift around 3k. when I baby the car it gives less MPG. My conclusion is that the engine runs more effiecient in that range. Meaning that under 2k it consumes more fuel to get the car...
A getrag has very little benefit if it's not coupled to a 3.13(usdm) or 3.26(jdm) diff. JoeZee has a very strong point, if you have 3.73 gears you're better off sticking to the R154. You might think the short gears down low will help to get the car off the line, but while your going through...
THAT IS CRAZY......Talk about an alarm clock to wake you up.... Be safe my friend, really!
To answer your question. Yes a 1j will give a 2j a nasty run. YOu'll be very sureprise of how quickly the 1j stretches its legs. They both have there ups and downs. It all depends what your power goals...
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