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Guys I need help on deciding what tires to go with. I got Dunlops right now that did a phenomenal job, but I see the need to up grade Since I am spinning like if I am riding on oil... I've been looking at the following: Nitto 555 BFG KDW NItto Invo Please give me your opinion. Keep...

it's a pain.... I'll never go vvti unless I have the level of support to get to my power goals. Plus you'll spend so much more on part and electronic to get to were you want it. And at the end of the day you'll still get smoke by a non vvti. Hell a 1j...LOL

Black smoke indicates a rich fuel mixture. White smoke is oil in your combustion or anywhere in your exhaust side. Could be your turbos starting to go.

Where's the one from your tranny...? BTW, I took this to Jamaica on Saturday and he said he can do this.

^^low blow...ay!

1j -14.7psi (1 bar) 2j -17.64psi (1.2 bar)

well once the car is done, your G/f bitching at you wont bother you as much......LOL If she leaves you for your car at least your car wont leave you......:evil2: j/k my friend, keep up the work, you are on the home stretch..!

It is. Shifter is extended approx 4" towards the back But he said he has a tranny already.

The title says "Manual to Auto" had me confused there. Bellsousing, Flywheel are the main things. Clutch, Pressure plate, clutch fork (with clips), slave cyl, Also for the flywheel you should pic up some dowel pins.They go on little holes on the flywheel, they keep the pressure plate in...

Turbos need to be balanced. A rebuild kit is ok to an extent but once you rebuild them they need to be balance. I agree with joe, but this might be a quick fixer upper for anyone on a budget. Although I believe it wont last long either.

Check your gapping. They come with a .42 which too much. .28 is where you should be although I opted for .25 to be safe when running high boost. (20+)

Do you break up at higher rpm? like 5800+?

I agree.

Great way to sum it up.

Look at both dyno sheet and see for yourself the power curve. Now if someone with a fully turned 1jz running a standalone can post up a dyno sheet, you will see that the timing has been tuned and lag is now only present because of the size of your backhousing. On a .68 a/r you should hit 20psi...

It's just as I described it. thank you

Nope the scenerio on post #1 is my car. Stock ECU with SAFC.

Yep.

@ 2800rpm I am 2-4psi then it holds it until 4000. @4200 I hit 20psi. So at about 36 or 3700, I am starting to climb really fast. My point is that even if I am positive boost @ 2800 it will not start to move until rpm and timing come in to the equation which normally happens after 4k

Full boost by 3500psi?