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I wouldn't go hotter then a NGK '6' heat range.

I really doubt the OP is talking about drag racing, and more of a casual street race (roll 95% of the time).

Black/orange wires are the 12v wires, splice into them.

No, you can make 700+hp with a 3" exhaust, dont worry. A 3->4" upgrade will give you nothing right now, except more noise. Very clean swap man, love it!

16 psi probably 450whp, and 7500 rpms.

Go ttc if you dont have the sequential parts.

lol, ~380whp maxed, but if you haven't checked you could be going lean. I'd say bad coils are the most likely problem though.

Plenty of guys making 700+ on a 'stockish' (what ever that is), for one. Then the vette enthusiast, underrating the engines for the most part, but not even bringing up the fact that the weight is significantly less then the mkiii. HP means nothing without weight when talking about beating one...

http://www.powerhouseracing.com/Templates/frmtemplateM7.asp?SubFolderID=10&SearchYN=N PHR modified stock pump is all I know of.

This post had my rolling :rofl: And Vette, Chevy, LS motor enthusiast!! :rofl::rofl::rofl: If you do want a 6spd, sell your car and buy a mkiv, seriously. But you dont need the 6spd and its way more money and time then its worth (unless you're shooting for 800+hp then a mkiv is a better...

Are you planning to use this as a 'starter' map to come with the ecu? Fwiw, my buddys car put down 602whp on his 35r 1j with a haltech sport 2000 at tx2k10 (the gray one). Hes using a 2jz harness w/ 2jz adapter though. Driving 1100 miles there and back.

I actually used the factory twin fan (91) wiring & relays for the FAL fans, and used AEM EMS to activate them. Used the factory temp gauge for temperature readings for activating/deactivating. Stock alternator. If I didn't have the AEM EMS, I would use the spal fan controller.

Its probably the electric fans, though I never had an issue with my fans till I was on the highway with them a/c full blast and it was 95* outside (A/C on 74* and wouldn't overheat, because compressor shut off every once in a while). Would idle all day with the a/c on and never overheat. Only...

What do you mean tapping the rear of the head for sequential injection? You're running 7m electronics now, just go with a 7m AEM ecu later. Theres no real need to put the cam sensor in the head imo. Just leave the mk3 cps.

Nvm, the cars still NA. You don't have all the parts for your NA-T, just put the GTE headgasket in so you're ready to bolt the turbo on later. Dont worry about turboing it now.

Damn I went 160 with the roof off and that was fucking loud.. With the roof on it was 4x as loud going 160 to 170.. cant imagine with the roof off.

I personally dont like meth injection, but I would go Stock TT headgasket for like 9.2-9.0 compression with a 6765 run like 15 psi on stock ecu, or 18 once you get a standalone. If you're going to race, Carbonetic triple and dont look back.

What is it doing? It might not be the ECU at all and might be something else? If you had it hooked up normal and it didn't work with a charge the mkiii A/C Amp controls all the a/c functions and probably something there (with a signal to the amp or the amp itself). The ecu hookup will just mess...

Nope ign- is only for the tach and I think the hydro fan ecu. The ecu doesn't see the signal iirc.

Try a new ignitor, maybe the IGN- signal is dead from the ignitor (that drives the tach). I'm not sure how to test it with a multi meter, maybe someone else will know?