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I'm looking to improve my A/C performance at idle. My system has been filled with r134 for 2+ years now and and works good except at idle. If you sit at idle the air is midly cool (probably ~ 75*) and with no tint and black leather in FL = fail, hahah (I will get tint eventually, just been lazy...

I wouldn't, just use a good synthetic with a good filter and it'll clean its self up over time.

+1

Its not really needed, but if you want to rewire the car, go for it i guess.

Yes it will, but I'm unsure if the MKIII A/C AMP and the 2jz ecu will talk the same language as to telling when to turn the clutch on and off. My old 2jz car I left the MKIII A/C amp to handle it all, worked fine.

Use the US spec diagrams. everything is the same except dont use the AR pin, use the MAP signal wire instead (62B)

Diesel is a much different from a gas engine. With a 2.5L (even 3) you'll never see the exhaust energy to spin a decent sized turbo to see any significant positive pressure. If you were able to get the turbine rpms to flow a decent amount of air the turbine would be so small that it wouldn't...

Lol, this is a joke right? Unless you mean positive pressure pre throttle..

Thats because your cars slow? Happens to every quick supra I've been in. Usually ~ 350whp

Singled 1j with cracked drivers seat... burgundy interior too... 5000-5500. And this is if it runs hard (makes 450whp). Making money or breaking even is hard on a 'project car'. I've done it a few times, but the market was MUCH better back then (3-4 years ago).

Triple walbros on 720 injectors. :rofl:

I dont think theres this info on MKIIIs, but Tan is pretty rare.

damn, hopefully the end of october, so I can hit up this and sema. I cant do both.

Whats the dates?

Reliable is the same for everyone, I think. Run that power any time you like without breaking anything. Also,just to clarify my posts are not saying you'll run 500whp on pump gas with the setup I listed. I'm saying put some race gas in turn up the boost and reach your 500whp. A daily 500whp on...

You're link is pretty worthless in this discussion though. Yea brakes and suspension should be addressed first, but this isn't about someones car build plans, its about a 500whp reliable engine for 5k. A well set out plan and you can easily plan for 90% of all expenses of the engine build.

A $50 filter, $500 exhaust, and you do not need a FPR, the stock one works fine with that fuel system. $500 misc is to cover 'unexpected expenses'. If you need another 2500 or 5k for 'unexpected expenses' you're a moron. :rofl:

Depends what the 5k is on. If performance parts only (like have a running car first) then very easy to get 500whp with 5k. Walbro pump $120 Used MKIV 550s $200 SAFC $350 Favorite EBC $550 Driftmotion 67mm Turbo kit (I assume it bolts in, no custom stuff needed?) $1700 Drift Motion IC Kit $500...

Virtual works fits iirc, and maybe the greddy t88 manifold.

Did you redo any of the fuel pumps?