Background: My car hasn't ran in 2 years. I did a GTE swap, but keep running into electrical issues and believe the problem to be somewhere in the harness.
Does anyone have a copy of the original document that states what's needed for the GE-T on GE electronics?
If not, what would I need...
The link is broken (goes to "page not found" on the wallstreet journal's site). But I for one will NOT pay an extra fee to play COD: MW3 online. Fuck that.
I'm giving up on this project. I'm having a buddy come over to take a look at it and hopefully fix it, but it's an electrical problem that I can't sort out. I'm at wits end with this car. I'm pretty sure I've got a short somewhere and fuck that shit.
I'm not sure if the turbo auto and n/a auto driveshafts are the same length, but I have a full n/a auto shaft and turbo rear half that I'll let ya have for 20 bucks. I just need it all out of my garage
The grounds are attached, I have 12v at the BATT and M-REL pins on the 24p ECU connector (harness side).
I'm going to check at the +B terminal at the diagnostic box when my light is done charging so I can replace a couple of the fuses that I had forgotten to plug back in...
There's 12v available to the coils with KOEO and I've tested two ignitors and both tested to be good as per the TSRM. Both were grounded through the case, as well as the "ground mod" running a separate ground wire from the screw inside the ignitor to a body ground.
Hey there all, I'm at wits end with my Supra. It's an 88, originally N/A Auto that I swapped to turbo manual.
KOEO all the lights turn on and chimes sound, so I'm getting power to those circuits. The battery has sufficient battery voltage at ~12.4v.
I'm using a Fluke 87 DMM by the way.
I've...
What's that gauge?
Oh, that's my blood pressure gauge, it's like a reverse boost gauge. When things are working, it goes down. When things start to go bad, it has a warning tone that says "warning, danger to manifold"
;D
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