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in contest to what gradavi is stating, there is nothing like building a car from it's status of bone stock... although quite costly, if you want to save yourself a headache you'll do what he says... if you like doing things the hard way, then you'll build it all to hell using your brains...

stock bolts are tough as shit... unless you're building a monster of a drag car... then maybe ARP's are in order... in any case, just check the torque on them, if it's adequate, you should have no issue making a decent amount of power (400ish) with no issues regardless of HG type... unless your...

you're looking at a lot of work.... highly recommend swapping to a r-154 trans, also ignition upgrade, fuel system upgrade, turbo installation, decking your head/block w/ MHG install, and engine management upgrade (NOT piggyback)... with all that you SHOULD have no issue making enough power...

the only real issue I can see here is that oil does cause rubber to expand, so since oil is present in PS fluid but not ATF, I could see leaks developing as a result... as for the behavior of these two liquids under pressure, I haven't the least idea.... The only thing I can really logically...

:cool: can't wait

yeah I've read cases where people have gotten away with using motor oil :-\ I'd simply rather stick with factory recommendation, and stay safe rather than sorry... besides, isn't ATF way cheaper than PS fluid?

Apparently the "old timers" that worked on cars when I was ~4 yrs old say that NAPA auto parts would sell fluid labeled as such "Automatic Transmission And Power Steering Fluid"

In light of JJ's statement (and lack of input) on the usage of ATF and PS Fluid in the power steering system "I wish that myth would die" I intend on killing the myth myself (if at all possible) since he will not. I've done about as much reading as I can. Couldn't really find much...

looks nice :cool: what wheels are those?

pretty easy to do... all you should need is normal tools to get the valve covers off (#3 phillips screwdriver, 10mm and 12mm sockets, an extension + ratchet) head bolts require a 10mm hex socket

luckily I had a locking extension... otherwise it woulda been a REAL PITA as the socket fit past the cams with absolutely 0 room to spare in some spots (almost didn't fit at all)

kicker was the ninja flute, LOL

I'd personally get a sig, H&K, or a 1911... not too fond of glocks... but if it feels right, go for it!

there are simple ways to get more power, but doing so without precautionary measures is a careless and reckless approach (asking for trouble)

than why don't you kill it? you say one thing, but your actions say something else entirely It's my understanding that our PS system calls for ATF (which is red IIRC) mine has clear fluid in it... I know both are hydraulic fluids, but is viscosity the same?

sorry, I was out working on it for several hours then I bolted off to my real job... but for the record guys, I was right in believing what I did... they ARE 1/2" (again thanks, IJ) he posted the info in a thread in 2011... but from what I can tell, for your ARP head bolts to be 1/2" they'd...

yup, I'm about to go and see... I've got a 1/2", 13mm, and 14mm 12pts

I'm reading a lot of mixed stuff, but from I can tell, old hardware 5,6 or more yrs old should be standard, and my bolts should be 1/2" standard...

ARP's are supposed to be standard (at least old ones are), not metric. my head bolts require 1/2" 12pt socket (thanks, IJ) the bolts are pretty old (engine was built ~8 yrs ago) I'm'll go take a look though, just to make sure looks like my car has a metal head gasket as well :cool:

well... I just cleaned off one of them and it says ARP on it... ARP head bolts