Yeah, this has been discussed pretty heavily before. The overall concensus was that it's fine but some kind of sealer, like copper spray, needs to be applied to gasket. I've got about a year and a half on my reused mhg with copper spray.
I never thought about oil getting trapped up in the head like that. Makes sense. I wonder if a longer pick up tube would have prevented that?
I would avoid maxing out your CC though (I got a cc just to fix my supe when I was unemployed :slap: )....just bite the bullet and get it towed...
Cool. Yeah, I guess just it's just one of those "coulda-shoulda" deals. I worry about everything I touch and expect the worst(and I'm still alive ;)). Blame it on the USAF+my brain. :beer:
I installed it about a year ago and haven't had any problems with it. It's the standard gss341. I'm only worried because of how I installed it. See the thousand word pic.
I did realize what I was doing and did some "testing". It seemed like it would take a pretty major impact to...
Take the powersteering belt off until you get it fixed. It's a little harder to drive but you get used to it quick and you don't have to waste money buying more fluid constantly.
It's probably cheaper and easier to get a couple of couplers(sounds redundant, i know), a few clamps, and some...
They don't feel like they are controlling bound/rebound very well, kind of sloppy feeling. Plus they don't seem to last long most of the time. The konis were a huge improvement.
That's it right there man. Your CPS is off one tooth. Pull the CPS, line up the notches and set base timing to 10 deg btdc. Calibrating your tps wouldn't hurt either. :hsugh: HTH
You probably wouldn't be able to notice unless valves were kept from closing all the way. That would be very noticeable. Ever driven a beetle with tight rockers? :thumbsdow
That's what I'd do even though it's a bit of a PITA. You could also check the valve by seeing if it opens or closes when you blip the throttle from the engine bay.
Yep, not clamped hard enough.
One thing: IIRC, 72lbs/ft was based on the yield strength of the stock bolts with the head expansion factored in as well. More than 72 and the risk was high of deforming the bolts after a few heat cycles and losing clamping force. Could be wrong though...
It's always good to have a machinist you know and trust. It's not a bad idea to check things yourself though. It's really easy to check the cam to shim clearance. Just follow the tsrm. :D
It sounds like your clearances MAY have changed since the head work. As the valves seat into the...
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