Search results

Yup.

Everyone's pickups are cracked , or will be. It has no effect. In my case, I re-epoxied them during a CPS rebuild, but it ran fine before with the cracks. I highly doubt your problem is CPS related. The CPS signal is weaker at low speed, so that is where a bad CPS might be a problem. You've...

It seems pretty clear what the problem is: code 31: open or short circuit in air flow meter circuit. Since the AFM is a primary sensor for the ECU, it will never run right with a code 31. It ain't a boost leak or anything else. Since you've replaced the AFM multiple times, they're either all...

Under WOT VF is set to 0V (actually, under any condition where it is running open loop it will be set to 0V).

Yeah, probably the teeth are worn down. Easier to pull down than push up on the antenna. Does it make a clicking noise when the antenna stops moving upwards?

In the olden days you could buy from Toyota the antenna rod and the plastic toothed "cable" with drum, which were the most common failures. Are those all discontinued now? http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/EPC/291420/catalog.aspx?F=8604&P=1

I used split loom wrapped with self-bonding tape (SCOTCH 23). But, given the historical importance of this car I can see how that would not be satisfactory. The only alternative I can think of would be to try to find a used one from a cold climate that has not turned to stone.

The original lex/550 mod did not include changes to the rest of the fuel system, but did require that the AFM bypass screw be modified. The AFPR is another way to tune that gets around the bypass screw. You can pick your poison.

Hood bumpers are item 53382 in this link http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/EPC/291420/catalog.aspx?F=5302&P=1 I don't think you'll have any luck with the wiring harness, even the later cars have been discontinued for a while.

Poor quality rebuild. I have a rebuilt starter from Toyota that has been trouble free for over 10 years now. The underhood temps of the Supra are no hotter than other newer cars I own, which is to say hot! Densely packed engine bays and catalytic converters = a toasty environment.

A lot of productions cars use a oil trap with the oil returned to the crankcase. This seems like the real solution you need, but installing one will take some work. http://www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo-pcv-oil-trap-240-740-760-780-940-3501160

If code 21 is set the short term fuel trim is set to 100%. That should give good drivability and is equivalent to running open loop.

If you removed the relay, just jumper pins 2 & 4in the kick panel and try to start.

There are two (manual) or three (auto) speedo cables. I had to replace them all to get rid of the bounce.I tried grease but it didn't solve it completely. Since the lower short one actually runs across the hot exhaust, it is the first suspect...

It seems like the pushbutton was a workaround, since it bypassed the entire factory starter circuit. Put a voltmeter across the starter relay pins 2 and 4 and check if there is 12Vacross it when you try to crank. If so, you've found your problem.

There is a blue-orange wire that needs to be grounded for the starter circuit to work. Normally that wire is grounded by the factory alarm box. What is it connected to on your setup? http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TEWD/MK3/manual.aspx?S=Main&P=038

My guess would be one or more intermittent COP. Those things are notorious for cracking over time and failing.

and it defaults to 80C when shorted or open, so causes problems when cold instead of hot. In-Hg is a unit that needs to die.

No. Sometimes removing it can cause weird fuel lean-outs at certain engine speeds due to resonances. Seems like you should datalog fuel pressure and see if it is dropping.