Search results

I would also check that the ACIS system is working properly. I don't know much about it, but it seems that if its stuck in the low rpm mode it might cause rolloff at the high end.

Cosmoline is what the Navy uses for this type of thing. http://www.cosmolinedirect.com/

Ignition on, engine not started, battery light on. Engine started, battery light off. That is the basic test of the three pin warning light circuit and its odd that it worked fine once, then not the second time when charging was an issue. One point I'll make is that my alternator when the...

That doesn't seem good. Those seals are not expensive. Try buying either OEM or another brand. If those leak you will have a big vacuum leak into the manifold.

You've got the alternator out, so the tests are simple. With the battery connected do you have 12 V at the big alternator wire. If the answer is no, then work you way back and find the problem. The obvious first thing to check is the Alternator fusible link. Hacked wiring would be the second...

Nice post. I still have mine in the garage. Replacing it with my HKS I was surprised how much the low end torque improved. There is a price to pay for that quietness.

Of course they are not at their original value. I just meant that the mk3 was essentially fully depreciated when it was 15 years old, and the value since then has been flat, and maybe rising a little now. If you bought one in the last 10 years, it most likely will have changed little in value...

It should not drop more than 1.5 psi. If the pressure does drop more than 1.5 psi, there's a fuel delivery problem. Your pump voltage seems low. Mine is 10V low speed and 13.5V high speed. Is your battery voltage about 14V with engine running? What is the voltage if you power the pump through...

Try pushing a seal into the manifold bore. You will hopefully find it is a tight fit, and will be compressing the bushing down in size so the injector is held tightly.

The guidelines are here. https://www.bar.ca.gov/Industry/Engine_Change_Guidelines.html It is tricky to swap out a different manufacturers engine because of this requirement. "Mixing and matching emission control system components could cause problems and is generally not allowed. Engine and...

In fact, given that there is little depreciation, and maybe even some appreciation, the cost of the car is not really that high. Anything reasonably new will be costing you $3k or more per year just in depreciation, and a lot more for performance oriented cars.

For california, Its legal to swap in a newer engine from the same family (i.e. Toyota). You can get that approved if the newer engine is ca legal and the engine management is updated as well. In fact , its encouraged since the newer engine is considered cleaner.

For Cali its 1976 or newer. Smog forever. I've been thinking its time to put together a facebook group or something and get someone in the state legislature interested in sponsoring a classic car exemption. And the Montana LLC is not legal if the car is principally operated in California...

Parts cost you can't escape, but labor, that's the big win.

For the timing check, did you mechanically verify TDC with a chopstick or something through the sparkplug hole? Good news on the tank. Something is affecting the pressure though.

This was posted on supraforums today. Hopefully not what yours looks like!

You have EDS with your SEM?

PhD. Electrical Engineering. Engineering management these days.

You need to shrink down the resolution of your pictures. I don't know what the limit is, but 1600x1200 seems to work.

Steering wheels are affected by the oil of the owners hands. Some people's chemistry just trashes leather over time.