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The orifice is a boost leak, but it's my no means "massive" - it's a very small diameter hole designed to flow enough air to carry PCV vapor to the accordion hose efficiently on the stock set-up. The only reason I told to you insert a PCV valve in the hose to the T-fitting is to prevent any...

Make sure the TB orifice is clear - if it's clogged, it will cause the crankcase to pressurize. If you are getting blue smoke out the back (other than start up) - it's the rings or you are forcing oil our through the turbo bearing. A bad PCV system will cause the latter ;)

Personally, I don't use a catch can - on a well maintained, relatively fresh motor it's not necessary. If you are getting the kind of blowby that's pushing that amount of oil/gasoline vapor to make a can worthwhile, it's time to change your rings ;) But if you want to run one: 1) Route...

EGT is not useless - combined with AFR, you get a pretty good idea of what's going on in the engine. I do disagree with placing it in the 6th runner - all that does is show you one cylinder. Post-turbo is not great either - your EGT will read low. The best place for accurate readings is at...

And, the orifice will not pressurize the crankcase if the PCV hose is routed across the valve covers to the accordion hose (stock set-up). The flow will take the path of least resistance from the orifice, across the valve cover nipples, to the intake. Positive crankcase pressure + the venturi...

I use Castrol Dex III Import (a semi-synthetic). I tried Amsoil universal synthetic, but got some slippage in 1-2 gears...I have no experience with the Red Line version. The Type IV IJ mentioned above is a synthetic and is excellent. Keep in mind that heat and debris are the tranny's main...

That is exactly how it comes across and continues even when provided the background info as to how something works. This is precisely why you don't see me replying to your threads. This is exactly why your posts come across per above. I agree with JJ, this seems to be nothing more that a...

Looks like you've got it all figured out then - after all assumptions about when the T-stat is fully open provides all you need to know. Same goes for the 180 deg stat - funny I'm in Phoenix and run a 180 deg stat here (per my previous post in this thread). I understand though - what do me and...

Only way I know of is to take it apart and take a look at the clutch brakes. The GTE has an extra disc/plate in the 1st, forward and overdrive assemblies iirc.

Do this and you'll transfer heat to the tranny fluid across the operating range. I've found the tranny performs the best with 170-180 deg F ops temp - coolant reaches 190-200 degs in a system performing properly. If you use the radiator cooler, guess which way the heat will transfer ;) IMO...

It could very easily be the gauge. Because it's rebuilt is not a good reason to use a 10W-40...I've been running 0W-30 Castrol European Formula (aka German Castrol) since break-in on my motor. A PAO or ester based synthetic is far superior to any conventional oil out there, especially in a...

With a 7M, the devil is always in the details ;)

Here's what ARP has to say on this subject: http://www.arp-bolts.com/Tech/TechInstall.html (click on "Using a Torque Wrench" link on the left. My interpretation of "final torque" is the last pass at the spec torque for the bolt...i.e. I torque to 5 ft/lbs below spec for each of the 1st 4...

So, this is not a stock gauge? It would have been nice to know that...care to share who made the gauge/sending unit and where the sending unit is located?

CP (yes they make them) would be my choice - if not, JE is a close 2nd. Just make sure the machinist bores the cylinders for the correct piston to wall clearance - make it to the tight side. That is unless you want it to sound like a diesel on a cold start. ;)

Do them one at a time in sequence - ARP spec for their hardware - 70-75 ft/lbs for stock bolts. There is no chance of harming a composite HG doing this.

And why is this the best choice? FYI - HKS is listing 2.0mm as the only option for the Stopper.

This is exactly what you should do. Airhead - The reason you did not get a response from me is you already knew that - until you do, any response is pure speculation. While the stock gauge is slow, it is fairly accurate - unless there is a problem with the gauge or the sender. The stock...

The correct answer is to torque to ARP specs - the ones on the sheet that come with the hardware ;) Alien - you are correct that the stock head bolts are quite strong from a metallurgy perspective. The problem is not with HG "squish", instead a over torque can put the bolt in the elastic...

Your choices are 1.2mm and 2.0mm for the HKS Stopper- the actual MHG thickness is actually driven by what is removed from the head & block decks. Since a 1.2mm MHG will increase compression (over stock) and is not a great idea for a street car running high boost, the 2.0mm would be my choice...